Opening my pool and want to do it real nice this time

[monsterman]

Bite the bullet & replace 1/2 the water with a submersible pump. Don’t drain below the ground level surrounding the pool since it’s buried.
The no drain water exchange (draining & filling simultaneously) is the very best option, won’t risk the pool or your equipment & won’t flood the street.
Section 3.5

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The cya is not your only problem. With all the potions you mentioned you used previously it is likely that you have added metals(copper) to your water that have built up & are now showing themselves at adequate fc levels (which you likely never reached in the past).
The tfp way is not a series of bandaids like your previous methods were. They often reveal the true condition. The copper in the potions kept you from going green at low & unsanitary fc levels but at adequate fc levels the result can be clear yet green water, Green hair, fingernails & stains.

Copper in Pool Water - Further Reading

www.google.com

A 50% water exchange would put things right at a very low cost. It’s not complicated.

the 50% water exchange- is that refilling and draining at the same time?because if it is- I do not have 2 hoses long enough to this procedure. OR?? as mentioned you say that I may have metals in my pool- but I don't know what to look for if there are such things in there. That is why my closing pool guy said to add Metal-Free(which the label says- does not affect chlorine levels)- to get rid of the iron and copper that might be in my pool causing the aqua color- What is your take on this(But the confusion here is that I used a FILTER that I attached to the hose that I bought on line- and I thought that would take care of any impurities from the water(like metals)- or is that not correct. Do you think what the pool guys says might be OK- (not TFP way)m BUT OK to do and see what happens?

 

[clambert1273]

the 50% water exchange- is that refilling and draining at the same time?because if it is- I do not have 2 hoses long enough to this procedure. OR?? as mentioned you say that I may have metals in my pool- but I don't know what to look for if there are such things in there. That is why my closing pool guy said to add Metal-Free(which the label says- does not affect chlorine levels)- to get rid of the iron and copper that might be in my pool causing the aqua color- What is your take on this(But the confusion here is that I used a FILTER that I attached to the hose that I bought on line- and I thought that would take care of any impurities from the water(like metals)- or is that not correct. Do you think what the pool guys says might be OK- (not TFP way)m BUT OK to do and see what happens?

Worst case just another long hose or 2. I think the exchanging water recommendation is two fold. One to lower CYA to manageable level and IF there are metals in the water it will remove them.

 

[monsterman]

Worst case just another long hose or 2. I think the exchanging water recommendation is two fold. One to lower CYA to manageable level and IF there are metals in the water it will remove them.

so what you are saying is to buy another long hose(and connect them and do the refilling and adding at the same time- (is the best way if I end up doing this procedure?) and should as I have read do the draining with the pump near the top of the pool and the refilling put the hose at the bottom of the pool?=because someone on this thread said CYA lays on top and rises as does heat?

 

[monsterman]

Dis anyone read my reply on my OCLT results and explain why the ppm was greater in the morning before sunrise than it was in the dark last night?

And as mentioned above- the TF 100 test kit did not come with any reagent test for pH? Just that color coded plastic container- is that the only way to test for the pH?

And lastly- do I have to clean off the blue paddle stick that I use to scoop out the powder for the chlorine test-I shake off the excess powder and put it back in the box- I really think that the first time i used it the addition of that powder to my pool water changed the liquid to a lovely magenta- but lately- it is more light pinkish-- And I am still adding that heaping teaspoon

 

[clambert1273]

Dis anyone read my reply on my OCLT results and explain why the ppm was greater in the morning before sunrise than it was in the dark last night?

Could be testing errors happens a lot actually.

And as mentioned above- the TF 100 test kit did not come with any reagent test for pH? Just that color coded plastic container- is that the only way to test for the pH?

Best way for Ph is in that color block when fc < 10

And lastly- do I have to clean off the blue paddle stick that I use to scoop out the powder for the chlorine test-I shake off the excess powder and put it back in the box- I really think that the first time i used it the addition of that powder to my pool water changed the liquid to a lovely magenta- but lately- it is more light pinkish-- And I am still adding that heaping teaspoon

I don't clean it often lol like you I stick it right back

 

[monsterman]

Could be testing errors happens a lot actually.

Best way for Ph is in that color block when fc < 10

I don't clean it often lol like you I stick it right back

I know there are always testing errors-all I know is that when I got up early this morning I was really precise and careful with the drops and the stirrer I held the stirrer in my left hand and added the drops with my right hand and I kept praying and was talking to the liquid to stay pink at least to the 26 drop mark - then i went crazy when it kept going. I prayed too hard.

also can you tell me where I might get a refill jar for that reagent for the chlorine- remember i am testing quite a bit and do not want to run dry--can I purchase this locally- to avoid any shipping on that small order(or when I order others)

 

[MITBeta]

Are you using the SmartStir now? If not, learn how to use that to help reduce errors in testing.

Also, when you're squeezing out the drops, the bottle should be vertical, not tipped to the side, and you should only squeeze hard enough to get the drops to fall off by gravity. They should drop at a rate of about one per second or so.

The color comparison block is the only pH test in your kit.

You can order test refills from TFtestkits.net or from Amazon, but you're better assured of fresh chems from TF. You're going to need testing for the whole summer, so you can spread that shipping cost out by buying enough for the season.

 

[Kaylee34]

will it be OK to swim in it with a FC about 13 ppm

Yes. Perfectly fine with your CYA level.

my TA was 110- so isn't that OK

It's a little bit high which MIGHT make your PH rise a little fast but it's nothing for you to worry about. The TA will come down by itself. You can safely ignore it.

about green hair-- what cause that color change- is it too much chlorine?

No. Chlorine does not make hair turn green. That's an unfortunate myth.

COPPER makes hair turn green. Some shock products, algaecides and combo chemical products have copper in them. When you add these to your pool, you're inadvertently adding copper. The only way to get copper out of your pool is to replace water. So continued use of these products over time can cause your copper level to get high enough to turn blond hair green.

It's no different than people using flocculants or tablets and shock products that have CYA or calcium in them. The pool chemical industry doesn't inform consumers of the side effects of using these products. The products themselves may not be bad (some are!) but lack of awareness of the "side effects" from the ingredients is what causes problems. You're facing that now... with your CYA level.

 

[monsterman]

Are you using the SmartStir now? If not, learn how to use that to help reduce errors in testing.

Also, when you're squeezing out the drops, the bottle should be vertical, not tipped to the side, and you should only squeeze hard enough to get the drops to fall off by gravity. They should drop at a rate of about one per second or so.

The color comparison block is the only pH test in your kit.

You can order test refills from TFtestkits.net or from Amazon, but you're better assured of fresh chems from TF. You're going to need testing for the whole summer, so you can spread that shipping cost out by buying enough for the season.

The reason I ask about the pH- is because the upper values of the YELLOW color are almost indistinguishable- so hard to tell the true number associated with the color? If you know what I mean

 

[Deb04]

I did the OCLT. Started at 9 PM last night and retested at 455 AM this morning. Last night it again did what daytime said 26 drops so 13 ppm. This morning it made me very confused. Why? Because drop number was 32???? How can that be???

This is not possible except for testing error unless you added some chlorine right before taking the night time sample (so that it wasn't completely mixed in) or sometime after taking the night time sample and before taking the early morning sample. You don't have any tabs floating in your pool, right?

 

[Deb04]

so what you are saying is to buy another long hose(and connect them and do the refilling and adding at the same time

They're not suggesting to connect and make one long hose. You use one hose to fill and one hose to empty at the same time.

 

[Kaylee34]

The reason I ask about the pH- is because the upper values of the YELLOW color are almost indistinguishable- so hard to tell the true number associated with the color? If you know what I mean

It is hard when you're at the upper yellow. PH testing is not very accurate when the chlorine is above 10 ppm anyway.
Try testing the PH again tonight after you test the chlorine. Then let us know what you get for both. Test before adding chlorine to the pool.

 

[monsterman]

This is not possible except for testing error unless you added some chlorine right before taking the night time sample (so that it wasn't completely mixed in) or sometime after taking the night time sample and before taking the early morning sample. You don't have any tabs floating in your pool, right?

No- i have not added chlorine for 2 days since Friday evening and Nothing floating-- I am so cautious and I am a pharmacist- so I know how to do this- and besides I was very nervous and thus did it extra slow-- so I dont see how anything could have gone wrong?? Just sayin

 

[monsterman]

It is hard when you're at the upper yellow. PH testing is not very accurate when the chlorine is above 10 ppm anyway.
Try testing the PH again tonight after you test the chlorine. Then let us know what you get for both. Test before adding chlorine to the pool.

I am not adding ANY chlorine whatsoever until the ppm comes down to at least 10?? ?????

 

[Newdude]

Keep in mind your minimum for your CYA level is a 9. So that's a very small window or algae will start to grow.

 

[monsterman]

They're not suggesting to connect and make one long hose. You use one hose to fill and one hose to empty at the same time.

That is what i was saying- i have a hose on the side of my home and one in the back where the pool is-- BUT the hose on the side of the home will not reach the pool so I would have to buy a longer hose that will? See what I mean-and if i do this procedure- how do I know when to stop- since the draining and filling are being done together- so how would I know when enough is enough

 

[Deb04]

That is what i was saying- i have a hose on the side of my home and one in the back where the pool is-- BUT the hose on the side of the home will not reach the pool so I would have to buy a longer hose that will? See what I mean-and if i do this procedure- how do I know when to stop- since the draining and filling are being done together- so how would I know when enough is enough

Yes, I get what you mean now. Connect them.

It would probably be easier and faster for you to just empty the pool 1/2 way and then fill it back up. That way you don't use as much water and you know when you stop.

A couple of days ago you were not going to empty 1/2 the water. Did you change your mind about that? Just asking because you and we shouldn't spin our collective wheels if you are still in a position where you don't want to dump your water.

Bear in mind that none of this testing or results are as critical as your work as a pharmacist. No one is going to die if things are a little off.

 

[Kaylee34]

I am not adding ANY chlorine whatsoever until the ppm comes down to at least 10?? ?????

Keep in mind your minimum for your CYA level is a 9. So that's a very small window or algae will start to grow.

This. ^^^^

Test FC and PH tonight. PH will be close enough if the FC is around 10. Let us know the results. Then we can help you with how much of what to add to the pool if it needs anything.

 

[clambert1273]

A couple of days ago you were not going to empty 1/2 the water. Did you change your mind about that? Just asking because you and we shouldn't spin our collective wheels if you are still in a position where you don't want to dump your water.

I had just brought up exchanging if his concern was dumping water so maybe somewhere in there I wasn't clear. For exchanging you need a hose connected to a small utility pump that can get to an area to drain (most use sewer cleanout but I ran to my laundry room sink) so I'm sure I made it more confusing without meaning to.

 

[monsterman]

This. ^^^^

Test FC and PH tonight. PH will be close enough if the FC is around 10. Let us know the results. Then we can help you with how much of what to add to the pool if it needs anything.

Hello and thank u for ur patience.. I just came from Leslie's pool and they test the water also- as you know- just to see how close my numbers are-- the picture attached shows my results-- My CYA was close- I came out with 120 from the Diluted test. And my chlorine this morning was 13 ppm. I just brushed and am now robot vacuuming the pool-- As you know with such high CYA I want to keep my chlorine levels up a bit as you suggested- take a look at their results and maybe tell me how much liquid chlorine I should put in? I think they are close because my chlorine should have dropped since the sun was out very strong today. So where do I go from here- the pool is still aqua- I guess thats OK- but I would like to get it a bit clearer?
And my FC is 10.57 what is TC- and is that number bad/good or what?