Opening my pool and want to do it real nice this time

I just did FC test. It is now only 13 ppm. Better than yesterday(17). Then i tested for CC and the solution remained clear(!)👍. Then i did diluted cya and the mark is about 60 so that is 120. That’s it from here but my pool still aqua. Next step?? Should I vacuum?? Or what.
 
Then i did diluted cya and the mark is about 60 so that is 120
You need to drain half the pool. (Please don't kill the messenger. :))

A 60 CYA is totally managable, albeit it with more chlorine used to maintain it until it falls further. But 80+ is going to be begging for trouble, not to mention expensive.
 
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I just did FC test. It is now only 13 ppm. Better than yesterday(17). Then i tested for CC and the solution remained clear(!)👍. Then i did diluted cya and the mark is about 60 so that is 120. That’s it from here but my pool still aqua. Next step?? Should I vacuum?? Or what.
The TA changed to slightly pink at 10 drops and clearly pink at 11 drops =110
 
Cannot do. I am going to get rid of it. There has to b a gray area and there must be another way??
This would have been the year that spiraled out of control for you, starting with a 150+ CYA. I'm shocked it wasn't last year, which was also a drought, but you would have found us this year one way or the other.

If you don't drain, you'll have a swamp in the near future. I'm not psychic so I can't say 4 days or 4 weeks, but it will happen. The pool store will swindle you out of a couple hundred worth of chemicals before they also tell you that you have to drain. They'll call it 'chlorine lock' after swearing up and down that the 150 CYA, and the ensuing swamp, was fixable.
 
I am going to wait it out--My wife has had it with me-- and I just spoke with a man who works the parks dept of my town and he said that our area has a lot of iron and copper in the water and that I should use 1 q of metal-free and that will be that and let the filter run for 24 hours and then backwash etc. I am not doing that just yet. But he said to STOP obsessing over this it is taking over my life. He said to wait for the chlorine to come down to 8-9 ppm(which might take a few days since my CYA is so high and then just swim. he said this is the 3rd time we have spoken with each other and nothing is sinking in. he said the best thing I can do is to stop stressing over it.And he said the water is NOT blue- it is reflecting off of all colors around. he asked if my pool was clear and I said yes- and again he said to leave it alone.
Below are pics of my pool just now-- that all I can say-- anyone else would say I am crazy- I guess I am-- I do not have faith in myself-- So for the time being I will let the chlorine drop another day or so and hopefully it will come down as it did since last addition of Friday at 9 PM and then take it from there. I cannot be textbook perfect- it WILL kill me. Thank you again.

IMG_E6169[1].JPGIMG_E6170[1].JPGIMG_E6174[1].JPG
 
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Monte, you are at an inflection point here: you will either need to decide to follow the TFP methodologies and the decades of research done on water chemistry, specifically the chlorine/CYA relationship or follow stuff other random people tell you. I'm not saying this to be harsh, but for the sake of the relationship with your wife and your own sanity you need to pick which way you're going.

Your CYA is currently at an untenable level. It cannot be recovered without draining your water to return the CYA to a manageable amount. No amount of pool store magic potions or advice from people at the parks department will fix that, but you're certainly welcome to try. It's your pool and your money.
 

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I cannot be textbook perfect- it WILL kill me.
It's not a matter of textbook perfect but more about sanitary. I can't remember through the entire thread but why fight exchanging water? I did it myself a month ago & may be doing it again soon. Mine is a different reason but will see how long I can hold out before I have to.
 
I completely agree that you are obsessing over the pool and nothing is sinking it. I'm sorry, I also don't want to be harsh, but you are getting in your own way.

We've held you hand to get you to this point. We've told you what you have to do from here. You don't have to do it, but if you don't do it, your managing your pool with a method we don't use here. None of us can hold you hand through a different method, not because we are being stubborn, but because we don't know how.

Good luck with your pool and if you decide to use this method in the future, please come back with patience and a willingness to take deep breath to avoid panicking. We'll help you out then.
 
Bite the bullet & replace 1/2 the water with a submersible pump. Don’t drain below the ground level surrounding the pool since it’s buried.
The no drain water exchange (draining & filling simultaneously) is the very best option, won’t risk the pool or your equipment & won’t flood the street.
Section 3.5
The cya is not your only problem. With all the potions you mentioned you used previously it is likely that you have added metals(copper) to your water that have built up & are now showing themselves at adequate fc levels (which you likely never reached in the past).
The tfp way is not a series of bandaids like your previous methods were. They often reveal the true condition. The copper in the potions kept you from going green at low & unsanitary fc levels but at adequate fc levels the result can be clear yet green water, Green hair, fingernails & stains.

A 50% water exchange would put things right at a very low cost. It’s not complicated.
 
just spoke with a man who works the parks dept of my town he said to STOP obsessing over this it is taking over my life. he said this is the 3rd time we have spoken with each other and nothing is sinking in. he said the best thing I can do is to stop stressing over it.
He's right here on all counts. Not saying this in a bad way. It is confusing when you first start out. You're learning a lot here and asking excellent questions. Everything posted in this thread is going to help someone else as well.

So much taught here goes against the conventional pool care mantra of shock, tablets, algaecide and chemical stew brew. It will make anyone second guess and doubt. After all, we've all heard that if something sounds too good to be true, it usually is. One thing I know without a doubt, the TFP method is easy once you get the hang of it. It's a rocky road for some at first but once you're over the learning hump, it's smooth as glass.

I "opened" my pool around mid-March. I added exactly 1/2 gallon of muriatic acid to bring the PH down to 7.4, 5 pounds of CYA, 80 pounds of salt and two gallons of liquid chlorine. Then I turned on the salt water generator. Since then, all I do is test basics and brush once a week. I'll turn the knob on the generator up a little as it gets hotter. That's it. Unless you want to count tossing the robot in 3-4 times a week. I get a lot of dirt and sand in my pool. Come autumn, I'll chase leaves and adjust the generator down until it's time to turn it off.

You really can't get any faster, easier or cheaper than that.

And he said the water is NOT blue- it is reflecting off of all colors around.
He's right again. The water itself isn't blue. It just looks blue due to the liner color, light and reflecting the sky. Pools can look deep dark blue, light aqua or anything in between. They can also look different from one hour to the next.

I do not have faith in myself
I think you've done a wonderful job so far. The pool looks good! Go swim! No reason not to :)
I have faith in you that you can do this. I think we all do. I hope you'll continue to have a little faith in us.
 
I am going to wait it out--My wife has had it with me
As a former wife, :laughblue:(had to do it) I can sympathize with she's "had it with you".

So in the interests of a happy wife, a clean, safe, sanitary pool, less stress and the enjoyment thereof, I'll ask the much more experienced members of TFP if the following plan looks like it could work:

No more GREENOUT, CYA containing shock or tablets. No clarifiers, no algaecides. Let's keep the CYA from getting worse and his missus from getting green hair.

Calcium doesn't really matter much for him and his TA is high but not horribly high.

Let the free chlorine drop to between 9 and 10.
Test the PH and get an accurate reading. Adjust if necessary.

After that why not just manage the FC to keep it between 12-15 for now. We know a little above 15 is OK and he doesn't want to go below 9 for long or he'll get algae. But he can keep up his nightly routine of adding liquid chlorine as needed in the evenings. It might get expensive but I can't imagine it will cost more than what he's already been spending on chemicals. OTO? test daily and FAS-DPT weekly should give him a good baseline without letting it get too high or low.

Evaporation, summer rains and other additions will help slowly with the CYA level. A couple backwashing and heavy rain need to drain some water "oopsie did too muches" will help. Not the ideal way to do it but it's a peaceful way. When he drains some to close for the winter, that will help more. Early next spring, before opening fully, he can retest CYA and if more needs draining, he can do it then when it's a lot less at one go.

If he has a problem like algae or cloudy water before closing for the season, he can come ask for help before going back to the old way of shocking and clarifiers.

Of course, if he can manage to drain now (or in a week or two) or if I'm way off base here, this plan is out the window.
 
After that why not just manage the FC to keep it between 12-15 for now
That's all that's needed. (y) It has to be 9 FC, plus the daily loss at that point in the season, plus a little insurance FC.

The OTO (block / yellow) test won't be able to give any #s, so the Fas/Dpd powder FC test will be needed everytime.
It might get expensive but I can't imagine it will cost more than what he's already been spending on chemicals.
All those chemicals have gone up similar to how chlorine has. The old way is not cheap, nor will it work any longer.
Evaporation, summer rains and other additions will help slowly with the CYA level. A couple backwashing and heavy rain need to drain some water "oopsie did too muches" will help.
^^^^^^^ this.

Did I drain a foot again ????? Why that's the 3rd time in a row I screwed up backwashing. Silly me. Hehe.
 
It's not a matter of textbook perfect but more about sanitary. I can't remember through the entire thread but why fight exchanging water? I did it myself a month ago & may be doing it again soon. Mine is a different reason but will see how long I can hold out before I have to.
I did the OCLT. Started at 9 PM last night and retested at 455 AM this morning. Last night it again did what daytime said 26 drops so 13 ppm. This morning it made me very confused. Why? Because drop number was 32???? How can that be???
And lastly how do i test for Ph. Other than that color coded container? Does anyone know of someone who lives in my local area who might be able to help me personally?
 
As a former wife, :laughblue:(had to do it) I can sympathize with she's "had it with you".

So in the interests of a happy wife, a clean, safe, sanitary pool, less stress and the enjoyment thereof, I'll ask the much more experienced members of TFP if the following plan looks like it could work:

No more GREENOUT, CYA containing shock or tablets. No clarifiers, no algaecides. Let's keep the CYA from getting worse and his missus from getting green hair.

Calcium doesn't really matter much for him and his TA is high but not horribly high.

Let the free chlorine drop to between 9 and 10.
Test the PH and get an accurate reading. Adjust if necessary.

After that why not just manage the FC to keep it between 12-15 for now. We know a little above 15 is OK and he doesn't want to go below 9 for long or he'll get algae. But he can keep up his nightly routine of adding liquid chlorine as needed in the evenings. It might get expensive but I can't imagine it will cost more than what he's already been spending on chemicals. OTO? test daily and FAS-DPT weekly should give him a good baseline without letting it get too high or low.

Evaporation, summer rains and other additions will help slowly with the CYA level. A couple backwashing and heavy rain need to drain some water "oopsie did too muches" will help. Not the ideal way to do it but it's a peaceful way. When he drains some to close for the winter, that will help more. Early next spring, before opening fully, he can retest CYA and if more needs draining, he can do it then when it's a lot less at one go.

If he has a problem like algae or cloudy water before closing for the season, he can come ask for help before going back to the old way of shocking and clarifiers.

Of course, if he can manage to drain now (or in a week or two) or if I'm way off base here, this plan is out the window.
thank u - I appreciate your taking it easy on me with your talk- but as I mentioned- will it be OK to swim in it with a FC about 13 ppm-- I dont want anyone to have any irritation- I will see what happens to the FC in the next 2 days or so- with the sun shining finally- and it may frain tomorrow as well? But my TA was 110- so isn't that OK- I really like your idea of waiting till next year to drain the pool since it will be less like it was this year.. But I also read about draining and refilling at the same time-- BUT one hose is long enough for the filling but the other is not- so i do not know how I can do both simultaneously? Also I read somewhere about to drain leave the pump high in the water and the refill on the bottom of the pool because CYA rises?
Lastly ,your reply about green hair-- what cause that color change- is it too much chlorine? I want to look out for that- because that will really tell me if I have too much?
 

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