I saw the Liquid chlorine on a swim store site near me- it says it is Sodium hypochlorite 6% and other ingredients 94%--- and the label says- for control of algae and super chlorination of pool water-- so is this ingredient much different than the powdered Greenout that I have explained earlier and thus better
Opening my pool and want to do it real nice this time
- Thread starter monsterman
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Ok- so let me delve further- if I add chlorine liquid 64 ounces each night with the filer running- do I NEED the floating tablets also??
clambert1273
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The 1/2 gallon was for 10% to get 5ppm - lesser strength would require more.
The 5ppm of liquid chlorine per day is just to replace the chlorine lost each day & prevent things from getting out of hand until you have accurate data without causing other problems since you are currently flying blind. Its not to fix anything.
Once you get the kit in do all the tests & post the results.
unstabilized tablets are cal hypo. Whether you actually need or can stand additional calcium is currently unknown. Too much calcium can cause scaling. Do not use any feeder that has ever been used for trichlor to dispense cal hypo. If cal hypo mixes with any other form of chlorine An explosion can occur. It should not be stored near anything else.
Algaecide will not eradicate an algae problem. Algeacide is only a preventive at best. It has no disinfectant properties. Algaecide - Further Reading
If the pool has algae you will need to do the
SLAM Process to eradicate it.
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And a weak one at that. 64% + some teeny tiny amount clorox wipe juice(a linear quat algaecide known to cause foaming) & 35% of “other”.
Adds as much cya as it adds fc.
I see you are chatting with the Pool moderator-- so what is the deal with Greenout? is the liquid chlorine that has sodium hypochlorite 6% the item I should get tomorrow at the pool store. It is a gallon bottle and it says Liquid Pool shock
also, I want to say that I do not think I have ever had algae ever in my pool- so will this new way of doing my pool for the first time hopefully do the same results without the out-of-whack test results?
Sunny Blues
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I honestly can’t imagine using only 6% and it would be twice as expensive since I would need twice as much. I use a 12.5% from a pool store near us. Not all stores carry it. Most only have a 10%, as does Home Depot. If you can only get the 6% version then you will need more to do the 5ppm.I see you are chatting with the Pool moderator-- so what is the deal with Greenout? is the liquid chlorine that has sodium hypochlorite 6% the item I should get tomorrow at the pool store. It is a gallon bottle and it says Liquid Pool shock
Do you have a smartphone? There’s a pool calculator that tells you the exact amount needed given the amount you want and m your pool size in gallons. On my iPhone I use the app “Pool Math”. For instance, when I enter my FC (free chlorine) as 6 but I know I want 8 since my CYA level is 60-65, I enter 6 and then I enter 8 as my target. Then near the bottom I select the kind of chlorine I have. That’s 12.5% for me. So it will tell me to add 1 quart 2C. But if I rolled the dial to 6% I bet it would call for 2 quarts 4C.
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what about this item sold in Ace Hardware-- 10% chlorine for a gallon at $6.99 But if I need to add 64 ounces per day to raise my FC 5PPM- then I will go thru a gallon every 2 days-- the cost will also add up quite high- am I doing something wrong here.
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The green stuff is a no go being as you’re unsure of your current cya & dichlor being acidic (which affects ph/ta) + it’s other unsavory & unknown ingredients.I see you are chatting with the Pool moderator-- so what is the deal with Greenout? is the liquid chlorine that has sodium hypochlorite 6% the item I should get tomorrow at the pool store. It is a gallon bottle and it says Liquid Pool shock
That liquid chlorine will work fine but it is a weak percentage (possibly with a hefty price tag). But Shop around for some 10% or 12% strength- walmart, ace hardware or ocean state job lot are few places - also sometimes called chlorinating liquid in the pool section.
At tfp we look at ingredients not whatever they decided to call a certain product. liquid chlorine is Sodium Hypochlorite aka bleach - plain unadulterated (no splashless, scented, or fabric conditioners/cloromax) household bleach works too just the same as that pool store version you posted - household bleach is usually 6%.
I found a liquid chlorine that has 10% at Ace Hardware- but as you said earlier I would need 64 ounces to raise the FC by 5PPm- and if I do this every day- then this cost will add up very high since each gallon is 6.99- I will go thru a gallon every 2 days. So do I need to use the liquid chlorine every day- and do I STILL need some type of floating chlorine as well?
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The 5ppm is until you can test properly.
what about this item sold in Ace Hardware-- 10% chlorine for a gallon at $6.99 But if I need to add 64 ounces per day to raise my FC 5PPM- then I will go thru a gallon every 2 days-- the cost will also add up quite high- am I doing something wrong here.
Average fc loss in an algae free properly balanced residential pool is 2-5 ppm/day most falling somewhere in the middle most of the time. In your area of the world it’s not likely 5ppm for long except during the dog days of summer. For instance I am in the south & I’m heading into the middle of my season with 80 degree water temps & hot high uv days , my daily loss is currently about 3ppm.
I replied to you in a previous post if I need to raise the FC 5PPm and use 64 ounces of liquid shock- then I would go thru the gallon every 2 days. Unless the chlorine levels off and once it gets to a level field- then I would only have to add a smaller amount. is that what will happen? Otherwise, I will go through that gallon every 2 days at 64 ounces per day. And should I continue to use the unstabilized type of tablets ALSO in the automatic floater or use a stabilized version--being that I will NOW be using liquid shock. And as you say if I have been using TRI chlor tablets in my floater NOW I should get a different floating device to put the NON stabilized tabs in due to the possibility of a chemical reaction.
And if this works fine- with Liquid shock and Non stabilized tabs- what will happen to the CYA- will it be almost NON-existent? And if so how do I replace the CYA (with what product?)
Sunny Blues
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I hope others more experienced than I pipe up to clarify chemical differences, but I’ll try to give my best understanding: Baking Soda raises alkalinity without raising the pH. Borax will raise the pH and only a little bit of alkalinity. Some people use Borax solely for pH reasons but I use it to get 50ppm of “borates” in my pool at the start of every season so that I can enjoy all the many benefits that provides, including softer sparkling water and longer chlorine life. My pH runs high naturally so other than when I’m adding borates I never need to raise my pH. Aeration also raises it quickly in my area. (Adding borates (borax) to your pool when you have a healthy, normal pH requires that you also use Muratic Acid at the same time to counteract the Borax raising the pH.)
Muratic Acid lowers pH. When it’s too high, like 8.0 or 8.2 etc., it’s the fastest way to bring it down. We used to wear gloves when adding it to the pool, but these days we just do it bare-handed and are conscientious and careful when handling it. We pour it slowly in front of a return jet. If it’s a lot less than a gallon we pour it into a large glass measure cup first, otherwise we just pour it from the jug. We then rinse the glass or the jug really well multiple times in a different spot of the pool so we don’t get acid on anything afterwards, like the garbage can, or our hands. We probably should be wearing gloves all the time and I would never advise anyone not to. I guess we just got good at handling these chemicals. I would never add it to a separate 5-gallon bucket and mix with water first because it adds too many opportunities for splashing. Muratic Acid will not damage your liner or pool surface when mixed in with the pool water. But you certainly need to be very careful that it doesn’t spill on any surface outside of the water or splash on you. We have concrete around our pool so it’s easy for us.
I’m very sorry about the confusion and reference to BBB. I haven’t been around here in a while and was unaware of the change in terminology preferences. BBB stands for Bleach, Baking Soda, and Borax. Basically all you really needed for balanced water. It is a DIY method of pool care. However it sort of makes sense to refer to it as the TFP Method here in this community since through this community a lot of fine tuning has evolved into a well oiled machine that classic BBB wisdom doesn’t cover alone. Just know the TFP method is smartly evolved from the BBB roots. I myself have to go learn what else has evolved in the past five to six years because that’s the last I was really active, and I haven’t re-read Pool School since 2012!
I hope that helps explain better?
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See my previous post #55
For the liquid chlorine consumption question.
Yes, you must use a different separate dispenser for cal hypo.
Cya mostly only leaves the water through water replacement/exchange. There’s a good chance most of the cya you had before you closed is still there.
The exception is Very hot water (above 90 degrees) can degrade cya some & some people find they lose a little over the winter (possibly because of a certain bacteria if the fc goes too low).
If cya is low you can add it separately or use a couple Trichlor pucks- the point is to test & know what you need then add it while understanding the effects it will have on all your parameters - not just blindly use this product or that.
For the liquid chlorine consumption question.
Yes, you must use a different separate dispenser for cal hypo.
Cya mostly only leaves the water through water replacement/exchange. There’s a good chance most of the cya you had before you closed is still there.
The exception is Very hot water (above 90 degrees) can degrade cya some & some people find they lose a little over the winter (possibly because of a certain bacteria if the fc goes too low).
If cya is low you can add it separately or use a couple Trichlor pucks- the point is to test & know what you need then add it while understanding the effects it will have on all your parameters - not just blindly use this product or that.
the chlorine also sanitizes the pool, and takes care of things that you cant necessarily see. Its important to maintain the correct amount. You have to replace what is consumed by the sun and bather load.
That is extremely helpful it really clarifies the following question I was going to ask you - so read on but I see that you answered it above--
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So now that I will be using BOTH products with NO CYA (stabilizer in it- HOW will my CHLORINE be protected from the sunlight? and preserved to be more effective? Remember that there will be NO CYA to preserve or protect it. And lastly with the newly used Liquid shock- do I STILL need to use the floating tabs daily? And again- since the Liquid shock has NO CYA- should I
1)only use NON stabilized tabs
2) Use ONLY stabilized tabs?
3) Alternate based on the test results between them both.
But as you stated above- I think option 3 that I just posted is the proper thing to do- since the test results will tell me if I do NEED to raise the CYA in order to protect the chlorine so to speak. otherwise, I would use the NON-stabilized type. This answer was really helpful.-- do you think this is a good idea as you have stated above?
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lastly, I am attaching your post #55 about chlorine consumption and let me know If I am thinking right here--
This is your post reply------
The 5ppm is until you can test properly.
Average fc loss in algae free properly balanced residential pool is 2-5 ppm/day most falling somewhere in the middle most of the time. In your area of the world it’s not likely 5ppm for long except during the dog days of summer. For instance I am in the south & I’m heading into the middle of my season with 80 degree water temps & hot high uv days , my daily loss is currently about 3ppm.
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Here is my question- I am looking at the Pool Math app and plugged in 10% chlorine product from Ace Hardware stores. I put in a current chlorine level of "6"( not sure why)- and I put in a target value of "8"-not sure why)- The result it comes up with is to use 28 ounces to do this PPM raise-- that would take the gallon 4.5 days to be used up- that is about $10 per week - am I thinking wrong here? Unless the fc exactly equals the target value then I would need no liquid shock. But that I think is a perfect world ??
I want to thank you all for the amazing help- it is quite late in NY - I will read the results in the AM- thank you people and have a pleasant evening.
Sunny Blues
LifeTime Supporter
I really don’t think you will be going through a full gallon every two days for your entire pool season. Don’t worry about that. Maybe at first for a short period until you are balanced and free of unwanted additives, and fully setup with the TFPC. Once you get your test kit you will have precise accurate measurements and can add proper amounts of chlorine just for your pool’s actual state, giving it exactly what it needs. At first it might be more, or when you need to shock you’ll need more. We go through a few gallons at the beginning of the season, but once we have everything where we want it, including CYA and borates, we don’t use that much. We only shock again right before closing. We just dont need to do it the rest of the season because it takes a LOT to unbalance our water now so it never happens. We might go through 16 gallons in an entire swimming season but it’s in 2-3C increments every few days at most, along with the shocking amounts at startup and at closing. Still those 16 gallons are far cheaper than buying any of the pool store chemicals yet far more effective.
CYA is added easily in one of two ways: most cost efficient is granular, through a sock massaged in your skimmer. Quicker is liquid CYA, but it’s twice as expensive. I only used that one year when I had no time as I was preparing for my daughter’s graduation pool party. I needed my numbers where I wanted them fast and had no time to wait on the granular to reach the right levels. But this year my husband did it our normal way. He sits down next to the skimmer, takes off his socks and fills them both. Lets them soak a bit in the skimmer as he kicks his feet in the water and relaxes, then massages the socks until all the granules have dissolved. This year my CYA was at 60 in just 24 hours. Not bad.
CYA is added easily in one of two ways: most cost efficient is granular, through a sock massaged in your skimmer. Quicker is liquid CYA, but it’s twice as expensive. I only used that one year when I had no time as I was preparing for my daughter’s graduation pool party. I needed my numbers where I wanted them fast and had no time to wait on the granular to reach the right levels. But this year my husband did it our normal way. He sits down next to the skimmer, takes off his socks and fills them both. Lets them soak a bit in the skimmer as he kicks his feet in the water and relaxes, then massages the socks until all the granules have dissolved. This year my CYA was at 60 in just 24 hours. Not bad.