Opening a swamp like pool

Julievogs

Member
Jun 7, 2023
5
Atlanta, GA
Pool Size
27500
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Autopilot Digital PPC3 (RC-42)
We had some issues with our cover this winter and now we have a swamp of a pool. (Vinyl liner, salt system) We are trying to get away from Leslie’s as our main source of pool info and feel a little shaky in our knowledge despite 14yrs of pool ownership. We should be experts by now. My husband and I take equal parts in trying to maintain.

Here are our current test results using our own kit.
PH: 7.8
FC: 3
CC: 14
TC: 17
(*Leslies says we have a chlorine lock and to dump in another 40lbs of shock after doing who knows how much over the weekend.)
Calcium: 250
Alkalinity: 120
CYA: 20
Salt: 2200

Should we start slam process and could we do so without increasing CYA or would that be first step?
We also have some “green to clean” which we already added over the weekend and have another jar we could add per Leslie’s but from a quick search on this forum it seems like it may add to our problem of high CC and increase ammonia)?

(Please be gentle. Very pregnant mama here trying to learn chemistry).
 
We had some issues with our cover this winter and now we have a swamp of a pool. (Vinyl liner, salt system) We are trying to get away from Leslie’s as our main source of pool info and feel a little shaky in our knowledge despite 14yrs of pool ownership. We should be experts by now. My husband and I take equal parts in trying to maintain.

Here are our current test results using our own kit.
PH: 7.8
FC: 3
CC: 14
TC: 17
(*Leslies says we have a chlorine lock and to dump in another 40lbs of shock after doing who knows how much over the weekend.)
Calcium: 250
Alkalinity: 120
CYA: 20
Salt: 2200

Should we start slam process and could we do so without increasing CYA or would that be first step?
We also have some “green to clean” which we already added over the weekend and have another jar we could add per Leslie’s but from a quick search on this forum it seems like it may add to our problem of high CC and increase ammonia)?

(Please be gentle. Very pregnant mama here trying to learn chemistry).
If those numbers came from a TF-100 and you are sure you did the CC test right (make sure you didn’t swap the FC and CC), then don’t add anything Leslie’s gave you and even return it if you can.

We aren’t super sunny here yet so not sure if the CYA really needs to be higher yet but if you do add any, be very sparing. Maybe someone else can advise on that one. The test doesn’t read as accurate at the extremes of 20ppm and 100ppm

You can start the SLAM any time but it must be with liquid chlorine and leave your salt system off for the duration. You don’t have chlorine lock.
 
That elevated CC is a bit concerning. It could simply be from all the swamp (algae) material, or it could be from some other chemicals previously used. Have any other products been added to the water other than acid and chlorine? Perhaps antifreeze or algaecides from winter closing? Anything else?

In preparation for the SLAM, you have the option of exchanging some water in order to help expedite the SLAM. Chlorine is getting expensive and you’ll need a lot of it, so it’s totally up to you. But once you decide to move-forward with the SLAM, some key points are:

1. First lower the pH down to about 7.2 with muriatic acid.
2. Yes, the CYA should be higher, but BEFORE increasing it, perform the following 10-min drill and make sure to have lots of chlorine ready:
a. Increase the FC to “10” and test again in 10 minutes (no longer).​
b. If the FC holds somewhere between 6-10 ppm after 10 minutes you can go to Step 3 below.​
c. If the FC fell below 5, increase it back to 10 and test again in 10 minutes.​
d. Continue this 10-min drill until you are confident the FC is starting to hold.​

3. Once the FC is holding, increase the CYA of at least 30. The CYA helps to buffer the effects of chlorine against your liner and protect the chlorine from the sun.
4. At this point, you can increase the FC to 12 as your new SLAM FC level. Do your best to maintain it.

From there it’s all about following the SLAM page. Test as often as needed to maintain the proper FC SLAM level and do everything on that SLAM page for best success. Good luck!
 
Last edited:
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Yes, a SLAM Process will be in order, however first let me ask:
1- Those numbers are from your TF-100 correct?
2 - Are you sure about that CC test?
@TexasSplash: Thank you! Yes, results are from our TF 100. I’ve tested 3x in the last 12hrs and my CC results have been hovering all in that same high range.
 
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That elevated CC is a bit concerning. It could simply be from all the swamp (algae) material, or it could be from some other chemicals previously used. Have any other products been added to the water other than acid and chlorine? Perhaps antifreeze or algaecides from winter closing? Anything else?

In preparation for the SLAM, you have the option of exchanging some water in order to help expedite the SLAM. Chlorine is getting expensive and you’ll need a lot of it, so it’s totally up to you. But once you decide to move-forward with the SLAM, some key points are:

1. First lower the pH down to about 7.2 with muriatic acid.
2. Yes, the CYA should be higher, but BEFORE increasing it, perform the following 10-min drill and make sure to have lots of chlorine ready:
a. Increase the FC to “10” and test again in 10 minutes (no longer).​
b. If the FC holds somewhere between 6-10 ppm after 10 minutes you can go to Step 3 below.​
c. If the FC fell below 5, increase it back to 10 and test again in 10 minutes.​
d. Continue this 10-min drill until you are confident the FC is starting to hold.​

3. Once the FC is holding, increase the CYA of at least 30. The CYA helps to buffer the effects of chlorine against your liner and protect the chlorine from the sun.
4. At this point, you can increase the FC to 12 as your new SLAM FC level. Do your best to maintain it.

From there it’s all about following the SLAM page. Test as often as needed to maintain the proper FC SLAM level and do everything on that SLAM page for best success. Good luck!
The chemicals we added over the weekend:
-green to clean
-shock (power powder plus 73)
-floater with tab

Would a polyquat 60 algecide help speed us along. This is what our pool looks like this morning. We’d love to be able to use the pool by Sunday (Easter) when family comes over.
 

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The chemicals we added over the weekend:
-green to clean
-shock (power powder plus 73)
-floater with tabs
Understood. I would still recommend starting at Post #4. Follow that drill and it should help you through the SLAM Process to get that swamp cleared up in a timely manner. It's not an overnight process, but it works.
 
-floater with tab

Would a polyquat 60 algecide help speed us along. This is what our pool looks like this morning. We’d love to be able to use the pool by Sunday (Easter) when family comes over.
Hi, The floaters with tabs aren't doing you any good right now. I would suggest to remove them until the pool is cleaned up.

Polyquat won't do you much good either. Its good and retarding algae growth in cold water, but it doesn't kill it very will after its gotten started growing.
 
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We also have some “green to clean” which we already added over the weekend and have another jar we could add per Leslie’s but from a quick search on this forum it seems like it may add to our problem of high CC and increase ammonia)?
Can you post a picture of the ingredients of this product?
 

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Julie, that product contains ammonia which is never good for our pool water. Definitely stick to the steps in Post #4 to ensure the chlorine can overwhelm its potential side effects.
Also likely the source of ammonia and very high CC?
 
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That elevated CC is a bit concerning. It could simply be from all the swamp (algae) material, or it could be from some other chemicals previously used. Have any other products been added to the water other than acid and chlorine? Perhaps antifreeze or algaecides from winter closing? Anything else?

In preparation for the SLAM, you have the option of exchanging some water in order to help expedite the SLAM. Chlorine is getting expensive and you’ll need a lot of it, so it’s totally up to you. But once you decide to move-forward with the SLAM, some key points are:

1. First lower the pH down to about 7.2 with muriatic acid.
2. Yes, the CYA should be higher, but BEFORE increasing it, perform the following 10-min drill and make sure to have lots of chlorine ready:
a. Increase the FC to “10” and test again in 10 minutes (no longer).​
b. If the FC holds somewhere between 6-10 ppm after 10 minutes you can go to Step 3 below.​
c. If the FC fell below 5, increase it back to 10 and test again in 10 minutes.​
d. Continue this 10-min drill until you are confident the FC is starting to hold.​

3. Once the FC is holding, increase the CYA of at least 30. The CYA helps to buffer the effects of chlorine against your liner and protect the chlorine from the sun.
4. At this point, you can increase the FC to 12 as your new SLAM FC level. Do your best to maintain it.

From there it’s all about following the SLAM page. Test as often as needed to maintain the proper FC SLAM level and do everything on that SLAM page for best success. Good luck!
I am at step 4. Hopefully we will be on our way with the slam process and clearing up this mess. Thank you for all the replies and information. I will report back with any questions/success!
 
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