Omnilogic Temperature issues

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carlb

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Jun 11, 2013
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Need some guidance on this one. Temperature sensors/display. I've been working around HI Temps. I know this much. There are 3 temp sensors in my Omnilogic system. 1. Air Temp My sensor is Dangling under the Omnilogic case. 2. Water Temp installed in the 2" water pipe just after the Filter Pump. 3. Solar Temp On the Roof, next to the solar panels.. The Omnilogic App displays the above: #1 and #2 are on the opening page. Upper Left corner is Air. Pool page upper right is Water. Have to open Pool Page and select Heater page. Set Priority to "Solar" to get Solar Temp.

I'm currently showing: #1 Air 155F #2 Water 169F #3 Roof 127F I replaced #2 (water) with a Sensor from Amazon Optimum Pool Technologies® Water/Air/Solar Temperature Sensor Compatible Replacement for Hayward® - Compatible Replacement for GLX-PC-12-KIT - Includes 2" Pipe Clamp. No change. Hmmm I bought another sensor and replaced #1 (air) No change. Not about to buy a 3rd, until I get some help.

Trouble Shooting: #2 Water sensor is installed in water pipe. Temp 169F #3 Roof is disconnected. Temp not displayed #1 Air is submerged in a cup of Ice. Displayed Temp 79F with the original Hayward Sensor. I changed out the Hayward sensor for the Optimum Pool Tech sensor Air Temp is 78F. Close enough. For now, I have faith in the 3rd party sensor.

So??? I'm hoping this is the part where someone says "No Problemo" Just change out XYZ on the PCB and you're good to go. Any thoughts or Been There Done That moments?

Thanks for all comments.

Carl
 
Replace the air temp sensor at the board connector with a 10K resistor.

If the air temp reads 76F then the sensor is still a problem.

If the air temp reads incorrect then the board is the problem.

You can use the 10K resistor to diagnose any of the temp sensors.

Temperature Sensors - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
carlb said:
It's the software that I'm concerned about.
Click to expand...

You need to go through the Configuration Wizard with the new board.

Download the Installation manual and review the Configuration questions.

Page through the Configuration on your current board before removing it and write down all the settings.
 
What model pumps do you have?

If you want to stay Hayward price out a OmniPL system.

Hayward versus Pentair is a Ford versus Chevy discussion. They both have their strengths and weaknesses,

How do you chlorinate your pool?
 
I have two VSP TriStar pumps. Main Pool/Spa and Features (Waterfall over a grotto and multiple wall jets). Both of them have been replaced 3 times. Twice under warranty, once out of pocket. $1750 each installed. I'm not a fan a Hayward Pumps. Pool is Salt by Hayward chlorinator, balanced by Sense and Dispense. Hayward was the only option with my pool builder.

While I'm not happy with most of the installed equipment, I'll cut Hayward some slack due to Central Florida Heat, Humidity, Rain, UV. I'm coming up on year 9. I expect some failures. Just not everything.... A/Cs last between 8 and 12 years around here. Roof shingles 15-18 years. Is what it is....

Carl
 

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carlb said:
I have two VSP TriStar pumps. Main Pool/Spa and Features (Waterfall over a grotto and multiple wall jets). Both of them have been replaced 3 times. Twice under warranty, once out of pocket. $1750 each installed. I'm not a fan a Hayward Pumps. Pool is Salt by Hayward chlorinator, balanced by Sense and Dispense. Hayward was the only option with my pool builder.

While I'm not happy with most of the installed equipment, I'll cut Hayward some slack due to Central Florida Heat, Humidity, Rain, UV. I'm coming up on year 9. I expect some failures. Just not everything.... A/Cs last between 8 and 12 years around here. Roof shingles 15-18 years. Is what it is....

Carl
Click to expand...
With creative wiring and a lot of open relays you can use another brand of automation. You need the Hayward to communicate directly with those pumps.
 
With two Hayward VS pumps and an Aquarite SWG I woudl stick with Hayward automation unless you want to get all new Pentair stuff with a 3 year warranty.
 
10K resister replaced the Air sensor. Unit shows Air 127f, Water 169f, solar disconnected. I check 3 20amp, 1 - 4amp and 1 - 5amp fuses. All check good.

Has anyone had their board repaired: Ebay Repair Service For Hayward Omnilogic HLX-PCB-MAIN 01-066146-1 Board 6MonWarr item264738980642 $389

Or just bite the bullet and have pool company do it?

Carl
 
Seems my local Pool company that claims to be able to replace the Omnilogic main board wants more than a "Bite". $2K for the board + install.

Updating: all fuses checked. Air & Water sensors replaced. Disconnected the Roof solar panel sensor. Air Temp is showing 215F. Water has stopped posting. I have done the 10K resistor replacement for the Air wire and still get 215F. I can run the system first thing in the morning (in the upper 70's) but as soon as the board gets Hot, it drops to Freeze protection. What??? I shut it down and wait for morning to run the filter/chlorinator.

So, has anyone done a Omni main board replacement? if so, difficult? Tips? Anything else they replaced? chlorinator PCB? etc...

Thanks,

Carl
 
I've decided to try and have the main board repaired. fingers xxx. But, take a look at my omnilogic control box and tell me if I'm off track (going to mess things up).

I have 2 pumps and 7 valves. I labeled every wire with the name of the main board connection point. Good news... almost every wire goes into a connector plug. Every plug is different shape. so, between my labels and a lot of pictures, I believe it will go together back OK.

My question... Can I trim all the wires and not cause issues with the MPS (brain)? Seems logical to me that I don't need 15 feet of wire on every connection. My longest run is 80' to a solar heater panel (solar sensor). All the rest are at the pool equipment area...max 10 foot run. Guess my concern is the unknown of the MPS MPP ohm/resistances requirement???

I hate this mess. No way would I claim that work as mine. Do the job right or move along.
 

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Take the valve actuators, they run on 3 wire 24V. Shorting the wire is not an issue... unless you cut it to short.
Photos, reusable zip ties, and labels are your best friends,
You are correct, that enclosure is a mess.
Kudos to you for tackling the bowl of spaghetti.
Add a surge protector in the lower right space. The Siemens Boltshield is what I have in that panel.
 
BMerrill said:
If you want to install the surge protector, you can change out 2 breaks for a double breaker.
Click to expand...
Yes and no. It would need a double spot like a 240 breaker and it would need to be closest to the sub panel feed which in this case is from the bottom. If he would use the left row he would need two tandem breakers to get the first slot from the bottom available. With that said he would need to know which of the 3 circuits there can be connected to the same tandem breaker as it'll be powered off the same leg of the box and possibly at the same time as not to take the electrical load off balance if it initially was a balanced box.
Amazon.com

https://yk8vw.app.goo.gl/dj4FdHDDzu3ShWVK9
 
Thanks guys. Don't know why a builder wouldn't include Surge protection. $$$ pic. Omni Box I have 1 open slot on the Omni board. I have no open slots in the House box but had an small axillary Box with plenty of open slots. Would protecting at the house feed cover the surge issue or should it be at the Omni Box? Would this Intermatic product work at the Omni Box. Seems to be an easier fit. https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-PS3000 I'm getting the feeling I should hire an electrician for the surge part of the fix.

Carl
 

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