Not Sure Where to Start - Or What We Are Doing Wrong
- Thread starter Pogueld
- Start date
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I added the DE as directed in the link. The pressure never went up so I stopped at 2 cups and will watch the filter pressure.
Ok so the PSI went up once with the DI to the backwash level after an hour or so. So to continue with DE in the future, you just add it to the skimmer after every backwash?
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Now Lisa it is time for you to start looking at different posts and seeing what you would say to them to help them fix their problems. No need to post if you are not sure BUT think about what you would say to them and see what we say. Does it match?
I found this to be a big learning gain for me. I read just about every post in algae to see what else I can learn.
Kim
I found this to be a big learning gain for me. I read just about every post in algae to see what else I can learn.
Kim
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
+1 with Kim. Trying to answer other peoples questions has helped me learn everything I know and has been invaluable in keep me out of the pool store and in the pool 
Using Google and the manufacturer and aftermarket sellers sites has taught me a lot.
Using Google and the manufacturer and aftermarket sellers sites has taught me a lot.
Thanks guys! I have posted on one thread about skimmer socks and I have been reading others, but good idea on thinking how I would respond.
So now, what's the next step to get everything back in good chemical balance, what do I start with? Do I let the FC drop and then test the overall water? Do I worry about fixing everything at once or one thing at a time? Is there a thread I should start with? I did read the two links Dave suggested.
So now, what's the next step to get everything back in good chemical balance, what do I start with? Do I let the FC drop and then test the overall water? Do I worry about fixing everything at once or one thing at a time? Is there a thread I should start with? I did read the two links Dave suggested.
Go ahead and run a full set of tests except for pH, and post up the test results so we have the most current set to go by.
No need to test for pH now with high FC like you have. If the FC is 10 or higher, the pH will test a false high. After the FC is below 10, then we will test and adjust the pH if we need to.
No need to test for pH now with high FC like you have. If the FC is 10 or higher, the pH will test a false high. After the FC is below 10, then we will test and adjust the pH if we need to.
Ok here are the numbers
FC 16
CC 0
TA 130
CH 180
CYA - 50 - this test is EXTREMELY hard for me as I am EXTREMELY far sighted so looking at close up things doesn't go well. I hope this is accurate. I do have bifocal glasses, but it is still hard because of the size [emoji5]️
FC 16
CC 0
TA 130
CH 180
CYA - 50 - this test is EXTREMELY hard for me as I am EXTREMELY far sighted so looking at close up things doesn't go well. I hope this is accurate. I do have bifocal glasses, but it is still hard because of the size [emoji5]️
Are you holding the CYA tube at waist level outside with your back to the sun?
Are you pouring it back and forth a few times to see if you are consistent?
Are you pouring it back and forth a few times to see if you are consistent?
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hi Po,
the test results dont look too bad, but could use a little tune up. Nothing looks really bad at all.
Dont do anything to the FC, let it drift down another couple days, then retest.
When FC is less than 10, then test the pH. You will want to aim for a pH level of about 7.8.
Before adding anything for CH, what I would like for you to do is test the water that you use to top off the pool. Test it for CH only. If the CH of your top off water is less than 200, then follow the next step. If its more than 180, then tell us what it is, so we can make the best suggestion. (I dont expect your top off water to be high in CH, but better safe than sorry).
Next, Your CH is low at 180. If your fill water is less than 200, then add some Calcium Increaser (calcium chloride), and raise your CH to about 250 for now.
You should be able to get Calcium Increaser or CH+ or however its named at Walmart, they usually have a good price on it. Pool Store will have it and prolly be more expensive though. (you will need about 23ish lbs of Calcium Increaser - so says Pool Math).
Your Totally Alkalinity (TA) is high at 130. What the TA does, is buffer the pH. It keep the pH from rising so quickly. The best way to adjust the TA, is by simply lowering the pH with muriatic acid. Acid will bring down the pH AND the TA, but not at the same rate, so its not a one time adjustment to get the TA down to recommended level of about 60 or 70 for a saltwater pool. What to do depends largely on the pH, so we will get back to this when you can test the pH and tell us what it is after the FC has dropped.
Your CYA at 50, I consider to likely be pretty close. Just before SLAM, we figured it was 60, and the drop down is due to backwashing of your filter during the SLAM and also thorugh some dilution by the rain...
One thing to NOT do, is get the CYA too high (above 80). So, I would recommend to get the CYA up in steps. It's fine if you go slow... its bad if you try to go fast and put too much in.
Add enough CYA to get you to 65.. then consider it to be 65. Thats a safe level and yeah, ! I know how hard it is judge the testing! Test the CYA a week later and we can tweak it again if need be. (Pool Math says add a little over 4 lbs).
Instructions for adding CH. Get a 5 gallon bucket and fill 3/4 full with pool water.. add some Calcium increaser in the bucket and swirl it around with your arm. When you feel that all of the increaser in the bucket has dissolved, then pour it in the pool. It wont take long for it to dissolve and you will be able to tell easy when its all dissolved. Repeat until its all put in.
You know how to do the CYA already.
the test results dont look too bad, but could use a little tune up. Nothing looks really bad at all.
Dont do anything to the FC, let it drift down another couple days, then retest.
When FC is less than 10, then test the pH. You will want to aim for a pH level of about 7.8.
Before adding anything for CH, what I would like for you to do is test the water that you use to top off the pool. Test it for CH only. If the CH of your top off water is less than 200, then follow the next step. If its more than 180, then tell us what it is, so we can make the best suggestion. (I dont expect your top off water to be high in CH, but better safe than sorry).
Next, Your CH is low at 180. If your fill water is less than 200, then add some Calcium Increaser (calcium chloride), and raise your CH to about 250 for now.
You should be able to get Calcium Increaser or CH+ or however its named at Walmart, they usually have a good price on it. Pool Store will have it and prolly be more expensive though. (you will need about 23ish lbs of Calcium Increaser - so says Pool Math).
Your Totally Alkalinity (TA) is high at 130. What the TA does, is buffer the pH. It keep the pH from rising so quickly. The best way to adjust the TA, is by simply lowering the pH with muriatic acid. Acid will bring down the pH AND the TA, but not at the same rate, so its not a one time adjustment to get the TA down to recommended level of about 60 or 70 for a saltwater pool. What to do depends largely on the pH, so we will get back to this when you can test the pH and tell us what it is after the FC has dropped.
Your CYA at 50, I consider to likely be pretty close. Just before SLAM, we figured it was 60, and the drop down is due to backwashing of your filter during the SLAM and also thorugh some dilution by the rain...
One thing to NOT do, is get the CYA too high (above 80). So, I would recommend to get the CYA up in steps. It's fine if you go slow... its bad if you try to go fast and put too much in.
Add enough CYA to get you to 65.. then consider it to be 65. Thats a safe level and yeah, ! I know how hard it is judge the testing! Test the CYA a week later and we can tweak it again if need be. (Pool Math says add a little over 4 lbs).
Instructions for adding CH. Get a 5 gallon bucket and fill 3/4 full with pool water.. add some Calcium increaser in the bucket and swirl it around with your arm. When you feel that all of the increaser in the bucket has dissolved, then pour it in the pool. It wont take long for it to dissolve and you will be able to tell easy when its all dissolved. Repeat until its all put in.
You know how to do the CYA already.