Is there a way to diagnose what is wrong without taking the circuit board out? I have a voltimeter...
You were right James--one bad solder joint. This is the second board this has happened to (I'm replacing this with my first one repaired). Would you recommend I replace the 20A fuse with a 15A fuse so that the fuse gets blown next time instead? (I read that somewhere as an idea.)Probably a bad solder joint on the board.
If it is, it is VERY VERY slight... Do you still think it needs replacing?It may be an optical illusion from the camera, but is the cap on that capacitor with "LF" on it swelled? If it is, I'd replace it while I was soldering.
Could you please elaborate? What and where exactly is the 'relay' you are referring to? I am very inexperienced with working 'under the hood'The solder joint failed because of excessive heat from the relay due to oxidized or pitted contacts. You need to replace the relay, Omron G8P-1C4P 24VDC, about $10 from Amazon or Digikey. And yes, you can learn to solder on YouTube but big parts, like the relay can be challenging to remove.
I'm sorry, I now realize you were talking about the component opposite the failed solder joint... I thought I just needed to re-solder it... Are you saying the relay MUST ALSO be replaced for it to work again? Or that I could try it first just re-soldered?The solder joint failed because of excessive heat from the relay due to oxidized or pitted contacts. You need to replace the relay, Omron G8P-1C4P 24VDC, about $10 from Amazon or Digikey. And yes, you can learn to solder on YouTube but big parts, like the relay can be challenging to remove.
Yes, he was saying that the leg of the relay is getting hot enough to melt the solder, so you need to replace the relay.I'm sorry, I now realize you were talking about the component opposite the failed solder joint... I thought I just needed to re-solder it... Are you saying the relay MUST ALSO be replaced for it to work again? Or that I could try it first just re-soldered?