Are you using a stirr bar and leaving it in the test vial as you fill it so in reality you have less water.
Newbie to the SWG world now have yellow algae present and getting worse
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stir bar? Not sure what you mean sorry. I’m not putting anything in the vial when I test it. Just water
- Dec 13, 2020
- 908
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- 19600
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- Plaster
- Chlorine
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- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
He's thinking you're using a quickstir or other powered stirrer. They work with a little plastic-coated magnet that you drop in the vial after measuring. Sometimes folks get confused and put it in before.
I wonder how you get 4.5' average depth in your volume calculation. Is it say 3' at one end and 6' at the other and you're averaging? This can be inaccurate. I started out doing the simple average, which produced15k for my pool. Just as you're seeing, PoolMath was predicting smaller changes than I was seeing. When I finally made a "grid" of about 15 depth measurements and did a careful volume calc, I ended with 19.6k, which is spot on with PoolMath.
I wonder how you get 4.5' average depth in your volume calculation. Is it say 3' at one end and 6' at the other and you're averaging? This can be inaccurate. I started out doing the simple average, which produced15k for my pool. Just as you're seeing, PoolMath was predicting smaller changes than I was seeing. When I finally made a "grid" of about 15 depth measurements and did a careful volume calc, I ended with 19.6k, which is spot on with PoolMath.
FC still in the mid 40s. Thought it would decline faster. Lot less yellow anywhere in the pool. Running the robot and scrubbing still.
reggiehammond
Gold Supporter
- Oct 4, 2020
- 2,253
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- 30000
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- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I don't know that I'd leap to mustard algae from the OP's comment. Many algaes can start as a yellow/orange variant before getting darker.Since you have mustard algae here’s some additional reading that you’ll want to follow when your SLAM is complete.
Mustard Algae
Today We are going to show you how you can get rid of mustard algae in your pool. By following the steps in this guide and with no expensive chemicals.www.troublefreepool.com
People LOVE to think they have mustard algae because it explains why their tabs/shock method wasn't working, but we all know that they've got just plain, boring algae that needs a good SLAM to eliminate.
OP got in trouble because he got outside the golden rule of TFP methods - the FC/CYA Levels.
70 CYA needs 5-10, min of 3.
You very well may be right I know it was definitely yellow in color. I guess at this point I have nothing yet to do except wait for the levels to come down to slam level and follow the three point test.
- May 27, 2021
- 1,308
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- 17000
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- Fiberglass
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Agree wholeheartedly. If OP is unsure however, following the mustard protocol won't hurt and if it's truly mustard algae will be the final nail on the coffin as it were.
With that much FC you can pretty much assume the algae is on it's way out. Keep the filter going 24/7 watching the psi and keep brushing and stirring up the water so the stuff gets caught in the filter.
I would like to spell this out for anyone following who doesn't inherently understand the above statement.
At 5 PPM, it may be 2 days supply now when losing 1 ppm a day. In July it might be a couple hours supply when losing 4ppm a day. Many with SWGs think that 5 is plenty but their pools fluctuate too, just typically not as much. But one low salt reading after/during a big storm knocks the cell out for 12 hours and they could lose the 4 that the LC pools do. I caught mine off 7 or 8 times last season. A phantom trip on a breaker or blip in the electronics may also knock it out for a day. It's not common but over the course of a season, it may happen a couple times. Algae doesn't happen every time, but the more chances it has, the more likely it becomes.
So the closer anyone is to min FC, the closer they need to pay attention to things. If it's 10 FC, that's a 2 day window in the peak season and maybe even a week right now.
Understand the daily FC loss for that time of the season in regards to minimum, and steer clear of min at all times.
Or even a good pool day early in the season with a bunch of kids and some pee will do you in.
reggiehammond
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- Oct 4, 2020
- 2,253
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- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
It's a good idea to treat the low end of the "good" range as the cliff of death. If the range is 5-10, be a 10, or a 12!
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,025
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I imagine you have a little of both going on - lower volume & higher % chlorine.
Where’d you get the chlorine?
Some places in Florida sell 12.5%
Where’d you get the chlorine?
Some places in Florida sell 12.5%
Well I tested again tonight. Still running mid to high 40s! Brushing and running robot and cleaned cartridge but that wasn’t bad. Water still cloudy of course. Assuming a few more days to get anywhere near the 20s. Not a lot of sun the last two days. Next several should be warm and sunny so that should bring it down. Also, 0 for CC
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,025
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You can also attempt to do a bucket test to see if you really have 10% liquid chlorine.
1ml of 10% bleach in a 5 gallon bucket of water should yield an increase of roughly 5.3ppm fc.
1ml of 10% bleach in a 5 gallon bucket of water should yield an increase of roughly 5.3ppm fc.
- May 27, 2021
- 1,308
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Yeah. You should have adjusted PH prior to beginning the SLAM. PH testing is inaccurate at SLAM levels of FC.
Finally some movement. Still cloudy but FC down to 36 and CC looks to be 1.0. It’s a very very light pink when I add dpd reagent. Not sure if it’s supposed to get dark pink again but def some light.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,025
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)