Newbie looking for general advice

[Bperry]

Got it and makes sense. I'll get my head around this once I have the hang on testing etc. Ideally having the spa flow separately without spilling over sounds like and means less messing with the valves which I can feel will snap one of these days.. Hopefully someone can chime in on that as you suggsted.

The trouble you’ll have is that your spa can be run alone to not spill over (kinda like if you were heating it and only using the spa for a couple hours) but when that’s happening your pool isn’t getting any flow or chlorination. It’s setup to be one or the other.

 

[pji]

The trouble you’ll have is that your spa can be run alone to not spill over (kinda like if you were heating it and only using the spa for a couple hours) but when that’s happening your pool isn’t getting any flow or chlorination. It’s setup to be one or the other.

Stupid question maybe, but isn't the pool getting flow via its own return and skimmer/main drain? Can they be treated as two separate parts?

Also, have succesfully spent a few months of the pool guy savings on the test kit and new hoses for my vaccum. Should see savings in a few months and of course, as has been mentioned many times, nobody cares about my pool as much as I do. Daughter, 2 1/2, is learning how to swim so I'm happy to have found this forum, so I can make sure the pool is in good condition for her this summer.

 

[Jimrahbe]

pji,

All this stuff about not continually running your spillover only works if you have an automation system, which you do not have..

The spillover is the only way your spa gets fresh sanitized water, so I suggest that you run your spillover, just as you have always done. You could slow it down, but I would not try to 'manually' schedule it.

I would worry about the pH when, and if, the problem comes up..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Hootz]

All pools react a little different as far as chemical needs. I run my spillover whenever the pump runs and the ph is fairly steady....I have to adjust it every fours weeks or so. Give it a try running the spillover and see if the ph varies much. From the looks of your valves you can run return to drain loops separately on the spa and pool....however it would be a little tricky to get the right valve settings on your spa to keep it full without spilling over.

 

[Mdragger88]

I had a look and the only larger size of this model that Pentair make is 200 sq ft. Obviously not going to swap it out now but if/when it fails on me, is this a good upgrade?

How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Bperry]

Stupid question maybe, but isn't the pool getting flow via its own return and skimmer/main drain? Can they be treated as two separate parts?

No. you have a single pump and your suction valves will pull water from both the pool and spa if the valves are open. The only way to get the spa to no spill over is to shut off both the pool suction and return.

Like mentioned, probably easiest to just let it spill over just a little bit. You can do that by turning the spa return almost closed.

 

[pji]

Jimrahbe - Thanks. Its running slower now with the variable speed pump tests I did. Skimmer and SCG seem to be ok at a lower speed than I was running and a consequence is that the spillover is slower now.

Hootz - Thanks. Will keep on eye on. Appreciate the feedback.

Bperry - OK, went to have a proper look and it makes sense to me now thanks.

The TF-Pro Salt kit arrived yesterday and I ran the test this morning before adding anything (as suggested here)

FC: 1
CC:0
pH: 8.2 (was as dark as the top section in the test)
TA: 60
CH: 225
CYA: ? (ran this twice but the black dot was visible both times and the little tube was filled completely)
Salt: 2400
Water Temp: 71

A few notes:

1. Pump did not run for about 5 weeks as I had to replace the motor. Been running for about a week now.
2. Salt level lines up with what my SCG was telling me. Not a surprise as I have no idea when the pool guy last added salt.
3. SWG cell is probaly ~ 5/6 years old. Cleaned it recently but there was minimal scaling on it. Set the motor to a speed high enough to get pass the "no flow" error but it has a "low amps?" alert until the motor is ~ 3000 rpm.
4. I definitely have a small leak (in the spillover from spa to pool). Also had a leaking check valve but changed that and it fixed that issue (water draining from spa to pool). Will do a dye test for the actual leak if it stops raining later today. Its not a massive leak but I am definitely losing a small amout of water. More than the various bucket tests I have done in the past.

I have a general idea of what I need to do/add but unsure of the order so any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Mdragger88]

Get 5ppm fc in there asap (liquid chlorine)
30ppm granular cya via the sock method
Retest cya after 24 hrs. Be sure the sample is room temp before preforming the cya test.
You eventually want around 70ppm cya but its best to add in stages so you don’t overshoot your target
Before raising your cya much over 30ppm do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at target fc levels
FC/CYA Levels to rule out any thing funky that would require the
SLAM Process.
Same with salt - creep up on your target.
check your manufacturer recommended salt range & aim for the middle.
Add enough acid to get ph in the mid 7’s.
Re test in 30 minutes or so & repeat if needed until your ph tests in the 7’s.
The low amps thing doesn’t sound good but lets get the salt correct first.

 

[pji]

Get 5ppm fc in there asap (liquid chlorine)

Will do. Pool Math has me adding 67oz of liquid chlorine (assuming 10%). How long should I wait to test after adding?

30ppm granular cya via the sock method


Retest cya after 24 hrs. Be sure the sample is room temp before preforming the cya test.
You eventually want around 70ppm cya but its best to add in stages so you don’t overshoot your target

OK, read about the sock method. Pool Math suggests 3lbs 4oz to get to 30ppm. I'll need to run the pump continuosly until dissolved I read. Do this before/after adding the liquid chlorine? Does it matter?

Before raising your cya much over 30ppm do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at target fc levels
FC/CYA Levels to rule out any thing funky that would require the
SLAM Process.

Got it. Will do that after. Seems pretty straighforward.

Same with salt - creep up on your target.
check your manufacturer recommended salt range & aim for the middle.

The manual says that the ideal salt range is 3,000 – 4,500 ppm so I'm aiming for 3750ppm. Better to do this after chlorine/cya are at better levels or can I add immeadiately?

Add enough acid to get ph in the mid 7’s.
Re test in 30 minutes or so & repeat if needed until your ph tests in the 7’s.

OK, again is timing important with this in relation to the steps above?

The low amps thing doesn’t sound good but lets get the salt correct first.

Agreed and makes sense. I know there is way to much going on here at the minute.

Thanks for taking the time to walk me through this. All seems clear, my own concern is the importane of doing any of the above steps in a specific order or not. Looks lilke I haev some shopping to do. Will go get everything tomorrow, start the process and report back! Happy to be getting this under control.

 

[Mdragger88]

The order of adding really doesn’t matter -
So long as you follow these guidelines:
10- 15 minutes between chlorine & acid additions
Chlorine is king so I would recommend that first.
The cya can be in the sock in the water while you add chlorine or acid so long as its not done infront of the same return the sock is hanging infront of.
Liquid chlorine & acid should both be poured slowly infront of a running return. Brush the area.
Many choose to put their cya sock in the skimmer a while first anyway to help it soften up before placing it infront of the return. In that case there’s zero conflict.
You can recheck fc 15 - 30 minutes or so after adding. Same with ph.

* the swcg should be off for the duration of the oclt.

 

[Newdude]

Protip: if you leave the pump on overnight, you don't have to wake up 30 mins earlier than sunrise to mix the pool.

 

[pji]

Protip: if you leave the pump on overnight, you don't have to wake up 30 mins earlier than sunrise to mix the pool.

Perfect. Was just about to ask if I needed to run the pump overnight. Seems not but I’ll take the extra 30 minutes any day!

 

[jkhamr]

Hi all,

Fantastic resource you guys have here. Just wish I’d found it sooner.

I’m looking for some general feedback/advice as I am looking to move away from having my pool-guy take care of the pool and plan to take care of it myself. It’s been on my mind for a while but I found this forum via reddit as I had to recently replace the old dual speed motor after it died. Went with a variable speed replacement. Figured after learning how to and doing that, now is a good a time as any to make the switch. The pool guy cleans the pool once a week but I’m sure he is not doing most (any) of the tests I’ve seen on this site. I’ve quickly made the journey from “I’m sure my pool guys is taking care of all this” to “oh Crud, I really need to do this myself!”

I have read most of what I can find on the site/forum and it seems manageable, at least once you get comfortable with it. Seems a little daunting with all the “daily testing” talk though.

Plaster pool, ~13,000 gallons, including corner spa with spillover. Pentair Dorado suction side cleaner.

Still need to figure out what speed to run the new motor at but I’m sure I’ll need to test levels in order to know what is a good speed to maintain correct levels. Currently running it at 2350rpm / 2850rpm.

I have a SWG (Autopilot Digital Nano Plus). Cell looks clean but is probably 4/5 years old. Will need to add salt as the pool pump was down for about 4 weeks when I was finding time to install the new motor. Currently at 2400ppm. Should be ~3200ppm according to the manual. Again, I’m sure after testing properly I can determine if the cell needs replacing? Any other way?

Seems like the TF-Pro Salt or TF-100 Salt are the best kits. Any reason to spend the extra $65 on the Pro? Currently spending $120/month for the pool guy so I’m sure they are both worth it and will save me money after a few months. How often will I need to get new reagents?

Assuming the TF-PRO SALT is the way to go, a good first step would be to use the tests and PM app, as well as post results here to get any advice I guess. What else should I be doing between now and the end of the month when the pool guy will stop?

Lots of questions I know but lots to learn!

Thanks.

I don't have any technical info to add, I'm here to just let you know I built my own inground SWG pool last summer and with the help of so many people on here I was able to get the pool equipment and chemicals dialed in for perfect water. I'm still at the bottom of the learning curve, but I'm ready to open our pool this spring and jump in with both feet knowing there's a great resource here.

 

[pji]

I don't have any technical info to add, I'm here to just let you know I built my own inground SWG pool last summer and with the help of so many people on here I was able to get the pool equipment and chemicals dialed in for perfect water. I'm still at the bottom of the learning curve, but I'm ready to open our pool this spring and jump in with both feet knowing there's a great resource here.

Thanks. Would definitely not even started this process without the support I found here.