Newb OB with BYOP in Buckeye AZ - Completion and wrap up

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AQUA~HOLICS said:
If you’re doing a checklist, here’s a few other items to be looking for.

Those guidewires I explained for keeping the pool square will be cut once they are not needed anymore ensure that they cut them deep enough into the shotcrete so there’s none at the surface.
The pool is square at the top, where it meets the tile, but have the crew radius all the corners 18 inches below the surface. This will allow your pool sweep to run smoothly in the corners and not get stuck.
All the edges of steps and seats need to be cut at a 45 not a straight 90, this will allow for more plaster product to be applied over the radius.
If you are having a dedicated overflow line, have that located on the house side of the pool so you won’t see it from the house.
When the first concrete truck shows up, check the way ticket to ensure the PSI of the mix is what you paid for and also check the time that the truck left the yard, you have 90 minutes to have it applied.
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Added! Thank you.

On the 45 for steps and seats, should that be about 1/2", 3/4" 1", or what?

Also, I read somewhere that water should never be added to the shotcrete mix by the driver/crew at the jobsite. I added that as a stipulation for my job and was talking to a shotcrete contractor yesterday about it. They said the concrete company allows for a certain amount of water added at the jobsite. I assume that is ok if it's coming from the concrete plant who is providing the material/mix design, thoughts?
 
Here are my rebar pictures. How does it look? Any areas of concern? Any other specific pictures anyone wants to see. The mason string is for me to get measurements of benches, baja ledge, and depths. I haven't done that yet, hoping to get to it today.

The rebar guy built two rebar cages for my columns. They are 18" x 24" wide. Is this what's typically done for 30"x30" masonry columns? I'm going to talk to my mason to see what he says.

By the way, is there a reference somewhere on TFP for posting pics with some tips? It's great to post straight from my ipad but several photos are too large. It takes a little time to email and resize them. I'll have to check file sizes on the ipad and then figure out how to resize them there.

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Couple other rebar pics. When I look at the engineering drawing the additional steel around a main drain doesn't look like this so I guess the rebar guy read the plans. I probably still call Pentair to see if the main drain would be ok with reverse flow.

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Well, I'm a newbie when it comes to pools, but I'm also an HVAC engineer when it comes to placing gas units near openings. The schematic in the heater manual is correct, however, as also said what the local inspector wants is what he gets which may not match the heater recommendations or even local codes. I just started my pool install last week and I opted for a heat pump just because the location would be under a bedroom window. You might rethink using a heat pump that can also double as a chiller and no issues with windows either.
 
jdsaengine said:
You might rethink using a heat pump that can also double as a chiller and no issues with windows either.
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I haven’t made up my mind on gas or electric heat, or for that matter if I even want a heater. My installation will allow for either. From what I’ve read a chiller function is not economical with a heat pump. The glacier is very low cost to operate.
 

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From the pictures the rebar cage looks good, most importantly are the pig tails being pushed down towards the dirt.
The columns have no structural pressures so they are not as detailed.
Not a fan of the plumbing work in pictures 8&9. The plumbing pipes take up area that the Shotcrete should be in and may cause problems in the future.
 
Thanks @AQUA~HOLICS great point on the plumbing by the skimmers. That entire area would be encased in concrete right? Any suggestions a DIY'er could manage, or would it involve plumbing work?

Maybe backfill some of the plumbing but leave a good amount of space for shotcrete to be under the skimmers. I'd have to figure out a way to prevent it from falling into the pool. Once I settle on a shotcrete company I'll talk to them about how to keep that plumbing from being encased.
 
Schwimmbad said:
By the way, is there a reference somewhere on TFP for posting pics with some tips? It's great to post straight from my ipad but several photos are too large. It takes a little time to email and resize them. I'll have to check file sizes on the ipad and then figure out how to resize them there.
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One way is to take a screenshot of the picture on your iPhone/iPad and use that picture instead of the original. Screenshots do not use the same high resolution that the camera does.
 
kimkats said:
My input is to get all of those big rocks out of the pipe area.
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Yep, there are some doozies! I am putting sand in with 2" cover on top of pipe and then planning to import the fill. When I have my backfill contractor out to look it over (after the electrician and gas are done) we'll review what to do. I don't want any rock, but I guess I could I'd be ok with some in the 2" range.

Also, as an update I had a detailed talk with the inspector today about the pre-gunite inspection, specifically on the bonding. With my pool all he said had to be done to pass pre-gunite was bonding connections with tails at four equidistant points around the perimeter of the pool. I'll be putting that in myself tomorrow morning. Cost a little over $50 plus a trip to Lowes and a bit of my time (I'm retired so my wife thinks my time is free). Figure it's worth it to get the shotcrete in about a week earlier. Electrician won't be here until Friday.

Anyone have any bonding best practices (locations around the pool, vertical or horizontal rebar, in the bond beam area or further down the side). I was thinking of one below the rebar cage for one of the columns, another behind

I will have my inspection done tomorrow (fingers crossed we pass) and preliminary date for shotcrete is next Friday (9/22), although I have one other shotcrete company I'm talking to tomorrow. Hope I can make this all happen. Refined gas bids due in the next couple days than only contractors left to nail down is the plaster, fencing, and barriers. Those all can wait until the rest of the pool scope is done and we are on to the backyard contractor.
 
KevMo said:
One way is to take a screenshot of the picture on your iPhone/iPad and use that picture instead of the original. Screenshots do not use the same high resolution that the camera does.
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Thanks for the suggestion. l'll give that a try and see how it does for some pictures. Doesn't that reduce the resolution so much you can't zoom in?
 
Schwimmbad said:
By the way, is there a reference somewhere on TFP for posting pics with some tips? It's great to post straight from my ipad but several photos are too large.
Click to expand...
My iPhone gave me lots of trouble and this is the work around I figured out. There's 2 other ways mentioned also.

IPhone hack for resizing pics

Hey all !!! I broke the dreaded iPhone pic upload problem a while ago and have tried several times to upload this all from my phone but lost track of the several steps while writing it down. Or the pics came out of sequence. But today. TODAY Is the DAY !!!! IOS has a built in resizer...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Best practices is to have the area surrounding the skimmer incased in Shotcrete as much as possible.
To clean that area up and have the plumbing pipes relocated away from the skimmer vault would require a plumber.
Refer your concerns to the Shotcrete company and how they will shoot that area without any voids or shadows. Shadowing is your concern for that area.

Bonding locations in the pool are typically up higher so the bare wire can be found easily after application one or two rows down, I tie the wire to a steak and paint it with a bright color so it can be found, the Shotcrete crew will bury them if not fixed to an object.
 
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After I called for the inspection I found this shy little guy (return) hiding behind the rebar! Called plumber, they will fix early tomorrow!
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@Newdude your iOS “hack” worked perfectly! The size of this pic as taken was over 10MB, selecting large knocked it down to 1.6MB.

AQUA~HOLICS said:
Refer your concerns to the Shotcrete company and how they will shoot that area without any voids or shadows. Shadowing is your concern for that area.
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@AQUA~HOLICS thanks for the comments, will do. I haven’t heard of shadowing, what is that? And thanks for your bonding guidance. Will follow that as well. I have a few good sized pieces of rebar I’ll use for my stakes. Paint is a great idea also.
 

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