New to trouble free pool

ko8310

Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2024
67
GA
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello all. Thank you for the opportunity to join this forum. We have had an inground 20,000 gallon vinyl liner pool for 20 years. We’ve been going to Leslies for all that time and have had mixed results. Last year our pool was pond green and we spent a lot of money trying to get it clear. We unable to get it clear. We hired a pool company and they were able to clear it up after several weeks and hundreds of dollars. This year Pool is still green and we want to learn how to maintain our pool ourselves. I purchased the TF 100 test kit, have reviewed how to use, but I’m still in the dark on how to add chemicals based on the readings. It appears I need to shock the pool first to kill the algae as the pool is pretty bad looking. from what I’ve read liquid chlorine is the preferred shock. I have 18 1 pound bags of power powder plus from Leslie’s that I would use to shock or SLAM. I have read and viewed the videos and information and I’m really ready to get going. i’ve never tested our pool or any pool so really want to do things correctly and take the right steps in order to get our pool ready to swim in ASAP. Any suggestions on how to start on the right foot or where in trouble free pool resources to go to? Again, I’ve never used a test kit and I have a very green pool. i’ve thrown so much money into the pool, especially last year and I’m hoping to become proficient at getting and keeping the pool maintained well for the short period of time we will be able to actually use it. Thank you for any replies.IMG_4291.jpeg
 
Welcome to the world of DIY pool care! It's great to hear you're ready to take control of your pool maintenance, and with the TF-100 test kit, you've made a solid start. Clearing up a green pool and maintaining it properly is a straightforward process once you understand the basics of pool chemistry and the TFPC method. Let's break down the steps to get your pool from green to clean:

1. Testing Your Pool Water​

The first step in addressing your green pool is to get accurate readings of your current pool water chemistry. With your TF-100 test kit, you'll want to test for the following:

  • Free Chlorine (FC)
  • Cyanuric Acid (CYA)
  • pH
  • Total Alkalinity (TA)
  • Calcium Hardness (CH)
These initial readings are crucial as they will guide the subsequent steps in your pool's recovery process.

2. Adjusting the Chemistry: The SLAM Process​

Given your pool is green, you are correct in thinking that the pool needs to be shocked. However, in the Trouble-Free Pool Care (TFPC) method, we refer to this as the SLAM (Shock Level And Maintain) process. This is more than just adding a lot of chlorine; it's a comprehensive approach to eliminating algae and restoring water clarity.

  • Cyanuric Acid (CYA): Before starting the SLAM process, ensure your CYA levels are within the recommended range. For a vinyl liner pool using liquid chlorine, aim for a CYA level between 30 to 50 ppm. This is crucial as CYA affects how effective chlorine is at sanitizing your pool.
  • Calculate SLAM Level of FC: Using the CYA level, determine the appropriate FC level needed to effectively SLAM your pool. The FC level required for a successful SLAM depends on your CYA concentration. For precise calculations, use the "PoolMath" app or resource from TroubleFreePool.com.
  • Maintaining FC Level: Once you've determined the appropriate FC level, you'll need to add liquid chlorine (or your available chlorine product) to reach this level. The key to the SLAM process is to maintain this FC level until the pool clears, which means testing and adjusting the chlorine levels multiple times a day.

3. Circulation and Filtration​

Ensure your pool's pump and filtration system are running 24/7 during the SLAM process. Continuous circulation and filtration are key to clearing the pool water. Clean or backwash your filter regularly to ensure efficiency.

4. Patience and Persistence​

The SLAM process can take several days to a few weeks, depending on the severity of the algae bloom and how consistently the FC level is maintained. It's essential to be patient and persistent, continuing to test and adjust your pool's chemistry daily until it clears.

5. Post-SLAM Care​

Once your water is clear and you can maintain your FC level without significant loss overnight, the SLAM process is complete. However, consistent maintenance is key to preventing future algae blooms. Regularly test your water chemistry and adjust as needed, keeping FC, pH, TA, and CYA within the recommended ranges for your pool type.

If you encounter any difficulties with understanding how to input your test results into the PoolMath app or interpreting the recommendations, feel free to ask here for clarification. The key to successful pool maintenance is understanding the relationship between different chemical levels and how they impact each other and pool water quality.
 
Thank you so much for your reply and guidance. I have my TF 100 kit opened and am reviewing its contents. Since I have never used a testing kit, this will be quite a learning curve. Once I get the readings and the recommended chemicals, is there any conversion table from the one pound power powder plus calcium hypochlorite 73% to gallons of liquid chlorine? I want to use the 18 1 pound bags that I have. I will go to liquid chlorine once those bags are used up. Thank you fall for the patience.
 
Thank you for the support. I know I have to SLAM-and am working on my first read. I can store my existing bags of shock if going straight to liquid chlorine will help me get from green to clean and clear based on the tried and true TFP steps. Can a suggested place to buy liquid chlorine be shared in the forum? Thank you
 
Just did my first CYA reading and I filled the tube all the way up to the 30 and I could still see the black dot. According to the instructions, I should not see the black dot at some point. I’m assuming the read would be 30 CYA since I can’t fill it anymore.
 
I entered 30 into the Pool Calculator and it says I need to get to 45. I need to add 40 ounces of dry stabilizer based on the calculator. from what I’ve read, I have to get the CYA to the optimal reading before I add chlorine, correct?
 

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Your pool looks like it’s a lovely oasis when it’s behaving. Don’t worry - the folks here will help you get back there and stay there!

Could you please post the rest of your test results?
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temp

Given the green color, and your near-zero CYA reading, there may be some other things going on that the experts will ask you to to test for before you add CYA. Personally, I would recommend holding off on any CYA until one of those experts chimes in. You WILL need CYA and chlorine but there may be one more thing to check first.

If you do add CYA, target no more than 30 for now. Use the sock suspension method and do not put it in your skimmer.

Have you removed all leaf and other debris from the bottom? Are you able to run your filter?
 
Thank you for the kind words. I’m at Walmart right now to get liquid chlorine and dry stabilizer. We vacuumed to Waste everything we could feel, given we cannot see the bottom yet. Will use the leaf catcher to try to get any additional debris. I will perform the other tests when I get back home and try to post the readings. Thank you for all your responses. It goes without saying, but I’ll say it anyway… I totally believe everyone in this forum has been where I am today, a hopeful newbie grateful for all the help as he joins the ranks.
 
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You're doing all the right things, starting with picking up that test kit. We do need to see the test results to understand your full situation. It will also be helpful if you fill out your profile with all your pool details.

My concern with your pool has to do with ammonia, which I have never had to deal with (knock on wood). Since you've used Leslie's in the past, I would have expected CYA in your pool, but your test indicates very little or none. You may llike to check for ammonia that before adding CYA. If you add CYA to a pool with ammonia, the CYA becomes food for the bacteria that create ammonia, and you'll be adding to the problem... not what you really want to do!

An easy way to test for ammonia is to add 10 ppm chlorine (using PoolMath). Wait 30 minutes then test your FC. If it's below 5, you likely have ammonia.

PoolMath is a handy calculator for figuring out how much of any chemical to add, based on your pool size and with proper adjustments for all the interactions (like TA and pH):

Whichever version of the calculator you use, make sure to correctly input your pool volume, and the percentage of chlorine you're using.

So go ahead and post your initial test results, mix 10 ppm of chlorine into your pool, test FC and CC in 30 minutes, and then post those results too. Based on what happens, and what your other levels are, we can get you started on the next steps.
 
I have tried to input my readings into the pool math calculator, but they don’t seem to post or show they’ve been input. I tested for pH and for chlorine it looks like my pH is about 6.8 and my chlorine is zero. I added 3 gallons of liquid chlorine per the calculator, hopefully that might bring it up to 10 ppm. I will test it again in about 30 minutes to see if any chlorine shows up. I appreciate all the guidance, but as I’m still learning and being challenged by lack of experience and repetition of drills and testing. I will keep reading and listening and following directions and opinions based on my inputs.Thank you
 
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I have tried to input my readings into the pool math calculator, but they don’t seem to post or show they’ve been input.
We're going to need more info to try and help you through this one. That's odd. Hopefully there is nothing wrong with your login. We'll come back to that.

Due to the suspicious character of your water some of those test numbers, I would plan on the following.
1- Do NOT add stabilizer just yet. First, increase the FC to "10" and test it again in 10 minutes. Don't wait any longer if you can help it. After 10 min, if the FC crashed below 5, bump it back up right away. Continue this 10-min drill until you are confident the FC is showing signs of life and holding. An FC closer to 10 is ideal, but between 6-10 is okay.

2 - Once the FC is holding somewhere between 6-10 ppm for 10 minutes, only THEN you can add the dry stabilizer via the sock pre-sock method. Plan for a CYA goal of 30.

3 - Once the stabilizer is in the water, now you can increase (and maintain) a SLAM FC level of "12". You will do your best to maintain that FC level until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. From then on, it's a matter of following the SLAM Process. Hope that helps.
 
If you continue to have problems using the PoolMath APP correctly, let us know and we'll get our admin folks involved.

Hi, I distributed the 3 gallons of liquid chlorine at 8 PM EST. I had to take my walk for health reasons and got back and tested for free chlorine. My test showed 1.5 ppm for FC. CC showed 3.5 at 9: 15 pm EST. Per the instructions I added them together and came with a total available chlorine of 5 ppm. I’m going to add another 3 gallons and test in 10 minutes. I’m hoping that’s what you want me to do.😊
 
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I’m going to add another 3 gallons and test in 10 minutes. I’m hoping that’s what you want me to do
Yes, continue to do the 10-min drill of testing and adding until you see the FC hold between 6-10. Don't add the CC to your result, that's the bad (trash) stuff. You're more concerned with the FC right now. It's probably dark where you are, so if you stop for the night we understand. So whether you continue tonight or start tomorrow, have the bottles of chlorine ready and stay on it every 10 minutes if you can. That's very important right now. Once you break through this wall and the FC starts to hold, it gets better.
 

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