Sorry it’s so late and I’m sure you all are in for the night. I’m just making note in the forum That I poured in another 3 gallons of liquid chlorine at 10:27 EST. Retested at 10:40 PM.EST and result came back at 5 ppm, after a minute on the counter the pink came back and I added more drops cleared up at six ppm after another minute on the counter, the pink came back and I added a couple more drops and it cleared at 7 ppm. The sample is now staying clear at 14 drops of R-0871 or 7ppm. It’s been about 15 minutes so I’m going to test again if it drops I’ll add another 3 gallons of chlorine so far I put in 9 gallons of chlorine.Thanks
New to trouble free pool
- Thread starter ko8310
- Start date
Last FC test of the evening. It took 14 drops of the R – 0871 over a few minutes to get all the pink out. It appears the FC held at 7 ppm For at least 20 minutes. I will check in the morning to see where we are again sorry for the late reporting just wanted to test while there was no sun interference. Thanks again.
- May 8, 2014
- 42
- Pool Size
- 8400
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Intex Krystal Clear
You're doing great so far! Once the ammonia is kicked, the testing will be far less and you'll start to see some progress on the green. I'll warn you, the amount of chlorine you may need to get rid of the ammonia could be a lot! Some people find it makes more sense to do a large drain (or two), to reduce the amount of ammonia they have to deal with. I'm not sure if that would make any sense in your area, what it costs for water, etc.
When you do your FC test, add one drop per second, holding the reagent bottle vertically. If it goes clear, then starts turning pink again, you don't have to keep adding drops. The first change to clear is the indication the test is done. But do make sure your lighting is good - the pale pinks can look clear if your lighting is dim.
You may like to pick up the Speed Stir. It is truly awesome, even for regular testing, but for a SLAM, I would consider it essential.
tftestkits.net
I'll be offline all day, but I'll check in later. Good luck today!
When you do your FC test, add one drop per second, holding the reagent bottle vertically. If it goes clear, then starts turning pink again, you don't have to keep adding drops. The first change to clear is the indication the test is done. But do make sure your lighting is good - the pale pinks can look clear if your lighting is dim.
You may like to pick up the Speed Stir. It is truly awesome, even for regular testing, but for a SLAM, I would consider it essential.
Magnetic Stirring Devices
I'll be offline all day, but I'll check in later. Good luck today!
Last edited:
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,018
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
So let's talk about this one. When you do the FC test, you add the R-0871 drops and count until the sample goes clear. Don't stop and don't let the testing sample sit. Anytime you allow the water sample to sit, it will start to revert back and get its color back, transitioning to a light pink. That's not the true reading. The true reading is the initial time your water sample goes from pink to clear. Once you hit that mark, you're done and you can discard the water sample - unless you plan on continuing to do the CC test. So today should be a big day. Let's see how things go.
- May 27, 2021
- 1,286
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You’re on the right track and in good hands. You’re going to need A LOT of chlorine. Honestly bite the bullet and save yourself a few trips and pickup a couple dozen gallons to start.
Good morning all. Thank you for clarifying that once the sample goes clear, that’s the true reading. At 09:30 EST I tested the water and it came back at 2 ppm. I have the speed stir with the light and will be using that moving forward.. At 0935 EST I put three more gallons of liquid chlorine in the pool. At 10:17 EST I tested and it took 6 drops of the R-0871 to give a 3 ppm reading. At 10:28 EST I put 3 more gallons of liquid chlorine in. 10:56 am EST the test showed a drop to 2 ppm. At 11:02 am EST I put 3 more gallons of liquid chlorine in the 20,000 gallon vinyl lined pool.At 11:42am EST I tested and got a 4 ppm result with 8 drops of R- 0871. It’s starting to get some sun coming through the clouds. I’m not positive but it seems like I have put in about 15 gallons of liquid chlorine into the pool since yesterday. I’m attaching the photo I just took around 11:45 am EST. It appears the pool is lightening up some. My understanding is that I can’t put the CYA in until my readings are at least 6 ppm or more and holding for at least 10 minutes. I do have a concern that all this chlorine is going to bleach the vinyl liner. Should I keep putting liquid chlorine in until the ppm gets up to 6? I’m only focusing on the FC right now is that correct? Sorry but I believe I need a little more guidance if possible thank you.
I’m trying to attach the photo, but it appears to be too large. Will send it as soon as I can.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,018
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,018
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
According to my calculation, 2 gallons of 10% strength liquid chlorine should be equivalent to 10 ppm of free chlorine in your 20K pool. It is very important to not wait more than 10 minutes to re-test and add more chlorine as needed. This initial FC crash you are experiencing is most certainly ammonia related. Don't be tricked by the appearance of the water colored or clear. Do your best to stay on that 10-min testing cycle and bump the FC back up as soon as you can. Once you bust through this tough part, it gets better. But if you stall between chlorine tests and feeds, the ammonia absolutely tears-up the chlorine.
I reduced the feed to 2 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine and doing my best to adhere to the 10 minute drill.
12:37 EST Tested 3.5 ppm
12:40 EST 2 gallons in
12:54 EST 3.5 ppm
12:57 EST. 2 gallons in
1:11 EST 4 ppm
1:15 EST 2 more gallons in
Pending the 1:25 EST SAMPLE READ
12:09 EST 2 gallons in
12:37 EST Tested 3.5 ppm
12:40 EST 2 gallons in
12:54 EST 3.5 ppm
12:57 EST. 2 gallons in
1:11 EST 4 ppm
1:15 EST 2 more gallons in
Pending the 1:25 EST SAMPLE READ
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,018
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
You have quite the monster there. It's really consuming a lot of chlorine. Looks like the FC is slowly trying to build and hold though.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,018
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
6 ppm! Great! You're heading in the right direction. You might actually start breaking though soon. Give it a couple more tests and additions before we consider adding CYA though. I really want to ensure you are getting a good FC reading somewhere between 6-10 ppm for 10 minutes. The higher the better. Good job.
You're heading in the right direction. You might actually start breaking though soon. Give it a couple more tests and additions before we consider adding CYA though. I really want to ensure you are getting a good FC reading somewhere between 6-10 ppm for 10 minutes. The higher the better. Good job.1:35 2 more gallons in
Unfortunately, I’m gonna break the 10 minute drill because I have to go back to Walmart and get more chlorine will get another 8 gallons. Thanks so much everyone for monitoring my progress.
Unfortunately, I’m gonna break the 10 minute drill because I have to go back to Walmart and get more chlorine will get another 8 gallons. Thanks so much everyone for monitoring my progress.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,018
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Putting another 2 gallons crossing my fingers it holds or improves