Not until this morning. I raised the chlorine to shock levels last night. When I checked this morning, the drop was between 1.5 and 2.0 ppm. Given this, I assume there is something in there the chlorine is eating. I plan to brush and vacuum later this morning and continue with the SLAM. Crazy how quick this came on. It's been real easy this Summer thus far.
Still continuing with the SLAM. Did the overnight test. Was 17.5 last night and again this morning. CC was .5. However, the pool is not yet clear. It's better, but still has a ways to go. I brush the sides/bottom every couple of days. I haven't vacuumed and backwashed since I started. Should I? I've also been keeping the solar cover on...could that have any impact? I assume I just keep going, waiting until it's clear?
Getting frustrated. I've kept the chlorine at 16ppm for over a week now. The water is still not clear. I vacuumed Saturday morning...even though I couldn't see the bottom very well. Still continuing to brush every day or so.
This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...
Deep Cleaned the sand. Been brushing. Vacuumed again this morning. Water still cloudy (see pic) . Plus the Chlorine now seems to be getting 'eaten' quicker than maybe a week ago (which was a week after I started the SLAM). One thing I hadn't mentioned and I don't know if it matters, but I do have a small solar heater (see pic) hooked up. Do I need to bypass it entirely or does it really not matter?
I've been consistent with checking the Chlorine multiple times a day and keeping the levels at SLAM levels (16ppm). I purchased the 12.5 % Chlorine last May and have had it stored in my basement. I believe it was manufactured not too long prior. Could it be it's not at 12.5% any longer and maybe not strong enough?
This isn't rocket science, but I must be doing something wrong. Now going on 2 weeks....
Your chlorine has certainly lost some strength. But you could tell that by measuring the FC level 30 minutes or so after you add to a specific Target. It should not matter if you have the solar heater running or not.
Ok, thanks. I'll need to purchase some additional Chlorine tomorrow. Gone through a bunch the past 2 weeks.
Also, will adding some DE to the sand filter help speed up the process? Thought maybe I'd grab some when I get the Chlorine. Also, when I vacuum, should I try to send as much to waste or is sending through the filter ok?
I hope, if I'm not saying this right the mods will correct me . . .
It seems vacuuming is for the purpose of getting rid of visible debris. So it could help to vacuum to waste and not have the algae take up residence in the filter. If you don't see visible debris/dead algae, it probably does no benefit to vacuum to waste. Brushing is still very important to make the chlorine more effective in killing the algae by disrupting it's biofilm (did I say that right?)
So it would seem - vacuum visible algae first then brush sides, walls, look for niches that could hide algae, stairs. The solar panel and hoses if not used could build up algae. Is that possible?
Also it's difficult to keep the FC up at shock level. You know the "shock level and maintain" TFP mantra. If the chlorine is getting used up quickly, its harder to "maintain" shock level.
How often are you able to check FC levels? That would use up the regents a lot quicker but necessary to keep the chlorine levels up. Are you running low on regents?
I'm not sure what to recommend re: DE. I've only used it a few times but I've read it can help but it will make the psi rise quicker and when you backwash, it all washes away and you have to add more. That's the extent of my experience.
I'll let the mods take on that question.
You asked about shutting off the line going to your solar.. I would leave it open. Since there is pool water with algae in those lines you want to include them in the SLAM process. If you shut that line down and then open it later, you just let in a possible source of algae and potentially be back where you started.