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Pat60

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Jun 11, 2016
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We have a pool for 20+ yrs, maintained by pool store instructions... Tired of spending $$$$! Got a TAylor 2005 C test kit and 8 gallons of liquid chlorine from pool store. pool guy opened pool , found my chlorine and dumped in 3 gallons! Ran pump over nite and had to backwash today.Tested water this am ,( between the rain) and got the following:
pH 7.2
CYA 0
TC 0
Alk 150 .
Pool is green.

Suprised at the CYA ,was expecting high. Shock regularly with BioGuard burnout and used Trichlor tablets .
Had lots of issues last year with high phosphates.

Please advise nnext step.
 
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. The problem is, the kit you purchsed will not test FC high enough or with the accuracy we need to follow the TFPC system. If you purchase the
FAS/DPD Chlorine CC's test it converts your K-2005 to a K-2006 test kit. I would also pick up the XL option as you will be running that test multiple times a day. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework reading assignment. Start with ABCs of Water Chemistry and Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
 
Welcome to TFP!

Stick with us, and we will have you ENJOYING your pool instead of WORKING on it all the time.
And you won't be spending every penny of your hard earned $$$ throughout the summer trying this, or that magic potion to try to clear things up.
People don't believe me when I tell them how little I spend on my pool (especially when they see it sparkling).

What is your water temperature right now? CYA testing is best done with a temp of 70+

Imgur is an image hosting site that I use to hold pictures, I then just link them to this site... Did I mention that we LOVE pictures!

Take a picture of it daily as you clear it up from the same spot... it REALLY helps you see the changes it goes through when you think it is stalled.

Follow the instructions that Tim gave you, and we will be here to answer your questions. Remember, the only stupid question, is the one that never gets asked.


Again, WELCOME to TFP! :wave:
 
Thanks for the reply. I ordered the reagents I need and have been reading the beginner info. I also have read some of the success stories, can’t wait to be one! The pool temp is 58.
 
Like I said, you won't go back to the pool store ways... I know, as I AM one of the success stories!

My wife was sceptical until she saw the pool turn around from a tadpole infested swamp, and the clincher was just how little we ended up spending on the pool once I had it clean.

You will LOVE these guys by the time it is closing season!
 
Pat, there's a good chance that your pool has ammonia in it. That's probably the reason your CYA disappeared and your FC being 0 as well suggests it as well. What you should do is dose your FC to 10 with liquid chlorine using pool math at the top of this page. Test FC again in 15 minutes. If it's less than half, it's a sure sign of ammonia. Redose it back to FC 10 and keep testing every 15 minutes until the FC starts to hold. It might take a lot of doses, depending on how much ammonia is in the pool. It generally takes 10 times the amount of chlorine to kill 1 PPM of ammonia. Once the FC starts holding, that tells you that the ammonia has been killed.

Now you want to add enough stabilizer powder in a sock in front of a return to get your CYA up to 30. Do NOT add any CYA until the ammonia is gone because it will convert it to more ammonia. Once you add the CYA, you can squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissolve. Then perform a SLAM by dosing FC to 12 and checking it as often as possible. Top it back up to 12 every time you check it. The more often you do it, the quicker the SLAM will go.

I almost forgot, you do need the better chlorine test that comes in the K2006 kit. You can order that on its own. That test is much more accurate and you can test all the way up to 50 PPM if necessary. Without it, performing the SLAM will be very difficult. You need accurate FC numbers to see where you're at.
 
You CAN start putting in a gallon of bleach at a time... with your pump on recirculate (for now). Test after 15 minutes with the kit you have, if there is no chlorine showing, put another gallon in and test again in 15 minutes... rinse and repeat.

That way, if there is ammonia, you might be able to get ahead of it before your new DPD test comes in.

With a 22000 gallon pool that is green, you won't be over-dosing it doing it like this, but you WILL be making some progress in the right direction.

- - - Updated - - -

I am assuming that you have already used a leaf rake, and removed any crud that is on the bottom.
 
Ok dumb question, never used recirculate, does that means it bypasses filtering? What does this accomplish?
The pool is a lovely shade of aqua green. I can see the deep end floor , no crud. I have brushed the walls several times .
 

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Ok ..after the rinse and repeat method above, and using the kit I have, it seem to be holding Chlorine at 1, TC at 2. What should I continue to do ?
 
Pat60 said:
Ok ..after the rinse and repeat method above, and using the kit I have, it seem to be holding Chlorine at 1, TC at 2. What should I continue to do ?
Click to expand...

How did you see the difference between FC/1 & TC/2? (which indicates CC/1, just double checking)

Have you read up on SLAM Process? It would be recommended to run on recirculate until your FC is holding higher as you will fill your DE filter very quickly :) (just an idea)


Can you post a picture of the water? Thanks!
 
Using 9mL of pool water, I add 5 drops of R0001 and 5 drops of R0002 and read this as FC, then added 5 drops of R 003, and read as TC , is this correct?
Yes, I have backwashed twice already.
I do have a pic on my iPad, not sure how to post.
thanks for your help.
 
Pat60 said:
Using 9mL of pool water, I add 5 drops of R0001 and 5 drops of R0002 and read this as FC, then added 5 drops of R 003, and read as TC , is this correct?
Yes, I have backwashed twice already.
I do have a pic on my iPad, not sure how to post.
thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
Yes it is per
JasonLion said:
Re: Extended Test Kit Directions
DPD Chlorine Test
FC and TC - Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine
Click to expand...

You can use [img ]img.url[/img ] tags (no spaces) OR attach your post =)
 
Yes , I have but I need to wait until the additional reagents I ordered arrive so I can test water more precisely. In the meantime, do I put on recirculate , added bleach or just wait?
 
Last edited:
Pat60 said:
Yes , I have but I need to wait until the additional reagents I ordered arrive so I can test water more precisely. In the meantime, do I put on recirculate , added bleach or just wait?
Click to expand...

Okay, then I suggest adding enough liquid chlorine for (Now/_0_ Goal/_5_ based on gallons of your pool and your % of liquid chlorine/bleach) morning and evening (with water circulation for at least 30+min after adding) until your reagents arrive, it won't harm anything, and will give you a little leg up.
 
Ok , so according to pool math, This is 141 oz of 10% bleach. (Got this from Ace ) Just to clarify, I should set the filter on recirculate after doing this ,not filter?
Again, many thanks.
 

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