New to TFP, have a little mustard algae

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G

Glong123

Member
Mar 6, 2022
8
Danville CA
Hi All

Very excited to join the TFP community. I just got my TFT100, and ran my first test. My goal is to eliminate a small but persistent mustard algae that forms slowly in the shady side of the pool. The pool is generally very clear water.

My numbers:
FC 2.5
PH 7.2
TA 50
CH 175
CYA 30
Salt 2800
CSI -1.15

I am clearly low on CYA so figured I would attack that first. Any other guidance? Pool math would suggest 12lbs of dry stabilizer, so I am going to that. Any other thoughts?

Thanks in advance, and happy to be here.
 
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Don't raise your CYA level just yet. You're going to need to SLAM first, then follow up with the procedures for mustard algae. You can work on getting your CYA up to the recommended level after your pool is clear and you pass an overnight chlorine loss test.

Your CH level is a bit low, which contributes to a somewhat aggressive CSI level. Your CSI level should not be lower than -0.06. Can you test the CH level of your fill water? Are you using softened water for top offs?

Here's some articles that will help you through the process.

www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

www.troublefreepool.com

Mustard Algae

Today We are going to show you how you can get rid of mustard algae in your pool. By following the steps in this guide and with no expensive chemicals.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Thanks Mark - Yes, this is my exact situation. As the pool warms up, I get it always in the shade side, I brush, etc and it goes away and then comes back after some time. I am excited to try SLAMing, and see if I can get the algae out. I will report back soon.
 
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Glong123 said:
thanks Mike! I just use the city water for fill ups. A check on the tap water indicates a CH of 75ppm. I assume there is not much I can do about that?
I am going on a quick work trip and will start the SLAM on Thursday this week.
Click to expand...
Sounds good. After you finish up your SLAM, post another full set of test results and we can address your calcium level if necessary. You may be able to manage your CSI by making a couple other minor adjustments.
 
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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Don't raise your CYA level just yet. You're going to need to SLAM first, then follow up with the procedures for mustard algae. You can work on getting your CYA up to the recommended level after your pool is clear and you pass an overnight chlorine loss test.

Your CH level is a bit low, which contributes to a somewhat aggressive CSI level. Your CSI level should not be lower than -0.06. Can you test the CH level of your fill water? Are you using softened water for top offs?

Here's some articles that will help you through the process.

www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

www.troublefreepool.com

Mustard Algae

Today We are going to show you how you can get rid of mustard algae in your pool. By following the steps in this guide and with no expensive chemicals.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
I keep getting sent to the TFP home page with the yellow algae link. Am I missing something?
 
Good morning - @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta -
Mike - I started my SLAM yesterday. What I see:
4/13, 3pm, FC was 2.5 - I added a liquid CL
4/13 5pm, FC was 7.0, I added a bit more CL
4/13 7pm, FC was 11 - my target was 10 per the chart so I left it be
This morning:
4/14, 7am, FC was 10.5, CC was zero, water is clear

This would tell me the SLAM part is done right? e.g. I did (inadvertently) an OLCT and only lost 0.5ppm

Do you agree? So now I should move to the Mustard algae level (18.2ppm FC per the charts?).

Let me know if you read it the same way. Thanks
 
I agree. If it was a regular SLAM, I would continue another day, but you'll achieve that by following mustard algae guidelines.

It's important to brush everywhere you can. Throw your cleaner in also. You may lose FC quick during the day with a low CYA level, so be vigilant about maintaining shock level for mustard algae.

You can save reagents while testing high levels of FC. Use a 5mL water sample and one scoop of powder. Each drop of R0871 counts as 1ppm. Don't use this for you OCLT.

Good luck.
 

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ok @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta - after time and yet another business trip the SLAM and Algae process is complete. So let's see if I did a good job in a few weeks!

I did a full test today and found the following:
FC - 9.5
CC - 0
pH 7.8
TA 60
CH 175
CYA 30
CSI -0.48

So it feels like the right next step is moving the CYA up. Would you agree? Do I need to wait for the FC to come down further?

Garrett
 
Great job!

I agree, time to bring up CYA. The recommended range with a SWG is 60-80 ppm. I keep mine at 70 and works well for me. I would target 50 ppm, wait 24 hours after it dissolves, then test again. Bump up to desired range from there.

Use the "sock" method. I use knee high nylons and put about 1.5 to 2 lbs in each one. For 5 lbs, I would use three socks/nylons. Without agitation and squeezing, CYA will dissolve real slow. I recently added 36 oz of CYA using two nylons. I put them in the skimmer with the pump running, and spent about 45 minutes massaging and squeezing until they dissolved completely.

Your CSI will get a bit more aggressive with more CYA. Warmer water will make it less aggressive. With fill water at 75 CH, your CH will rise. If you allow your pH to rise to the 7.9 to 8.0 range, your CSI should be fine. I'll call on @mknauss to take a peek and comment on how best to handle low CH.
 
I suspect Danville does not have as high of evaporation as other more inland areas of California. Your CH is low, and I would hate for it to impact your plaster. So either diligently manage CSI to keep it at or higher than -0.3 as often as possible (by letting pH rise and TA rise) or add about 75 ppm of CH via calcium chloride.
 
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Hi @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta and @mknauss - updated numbers here after some chemical additions:

FC 7.0
pH 7.3
TA 60
CH 350
CYA 70
Salt 3000
CSI -0.78

So, looking a lot better! Pool math still shows a flag for out of spec for CSI - should I take action? Pool math also indicates pH could be a bit higher (7.6?) so I am curious for your thoughts on that too.
Thanks for the help,

Garrett
 
The numbers look good. Did you add calcium chloride or did your CH testing result in a different level?

To keep CSI in range, you'll need to allow your pH to rise. You can expedite pH rise through aeration.
 
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
The numbers look good. Did you add calcium chloride or did your CH testing result in a different level?

To keep CSI in range, you'll need to allow your pH to rise. You can expedite pH rise through aeration.
Click to expand...
@Rancho Cost-a-Lotta I decided to add calcium chloride. I added 45lbs of Leslies Hardness plus (it was the best cost/benefit option in my area) to move it up 200ppm. I have a water fall feature from hot tub to pool which runs all day so hopefully that provides enough aeration? Thanks again for all the guidance. I feel like my pool is in great shape now.
 

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