New title!! New boreal (cornelius) 27 ft agp build thread (sort of)

Jump to latest Follow Reply
A

al gee

0
Jun 16, 2013
10
Hi everyone,
So the steel wall of my 27 foot round above ground definitely needs replacing. Pics attached.

Am I wrong to assume that all 27 ft 52" steel walls are similar enough to be interchangeable/compatible with my own AGP?

I know buying JUST the wall is not that much cheaper than a complete set. But if I were to replace the whole pool, I would rather get one with resin composite wall (saltwater aurora), which would then be a more expensive set.

I also need to replace the liner. I couldn't find much info about using the old liner as a floor pad, instead of spending money on one of those Gorilla "geotextile" mats. Any feedback is appreciated.

THANK YOU ALL IN ADVANCE!

20230524_171948.jpg20230524_172813.jpg20230524_172237.jpg20230524_172723.jpg20230524_172831.jpg20230524_172842.jpg20230524_172826.jpg20230524_172140.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
🙋‍♀️ I vote Aurora but it’s easy to spend someone else’s money lol 😂
But seriously, you need new uprights & plates too, also probably a bottom track.
That coupled with the wall & liner is basically a new pool & probably costs more than a new one so even if you don’t spring for an Aurora you need a new pool. There’s several resin/hybrid options that have all resin parts except the wall.
I haven’t seen anyone use the old liner instead of gorilla pad. Not really sure what it would do for you over the sand base that you already have. The gorilla pad provides some cushion & mostly helps it to be smoother (less footprints/divots). If you try it let us know. Most people just use the old liner to help preserve the base until they install the new pool/liner.
 
To answer your original question about interchangeable pool walls,
The answer is Perhaps….
the trouble is that even if you measure exactly & all seems good, you pay for the wall & the atrocious shipping they charge then you get to putting it up & it doesn’t fit you then have to pay to ship it back & possibly pay a restocking fee. The risk is usually not worth it for most people so either stick with the oem parts that thw manufacturer says will fit or get a whole new set up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kimkats
Mdragger88 said:
To answer your original question about interchangeable pool walls,
The answer is Perhaps….
the trouble is that even if you measure exactly & all seems good, you pay for the wall & the atrocious shipping they charge then you get to putting it up & it doesn’t fit you then have to pay to ship it back & possibly pay a restocking fee. The risk is usually not worth it for most people so either stick with the oem parts that thw manufacturer says will fit or get a whole new set up.
Click to expand...
That is indeed a very good point!
Thanks
 
Mdragger88 said:
🙋‍♀️ I vote Aurora but it’s easy to spend someone else’s money lol 😂
But seriously, you need new uprights & plates too, also probably a bottom track.
That coupled with the wall & liner is basically a new pool & probably costs more than a new one so even if you don’t spring for an Aurora you need a new pool. There’s several resin/hybrid options that have all resin parts except the wall.
I haven’t seen anyone use the old liner instead of gorilla pad. Not really sure what it would do for you over the sand base that you already have. The gorilla pad provides some cushion & mostly helps it to be smoother (less footprints/divots). If you try it let us know. Most people just use the old liner to help preserve the base until they install the new pool/liner.
Click to expand...
yea the only part in the pool that looks great is the bottom track. No rust at all. Maybe its resin lol.

Im thinking of using the old liner as an extra protection for any rocks or sharp roots that might have made their way thru the sand. Theres def several wrinkles, bumps and dips on it. I guess I should first remove the old liner to see what's really going on under there. Hopefully no network of mole tunnels!

I'm prob gonna get the gladon coves and a foam wall. I'm gonna read more about them first tho.

Thanks!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
You will wanna apply some Nutsedge killer & pesticide granules under the liner & a little fresh sand to smooth things out no matter what you use on top. Whatever they put down before has certainly worn off by now. Hopefully won’t be too much prep work.
 
Sorry for ghosting this thread lol.. a little update:

We got the Boreal 27 agp from pool factory. :::::: wife loved the wall design. I like the dark uprights, not many like it.

>>>>>>>
1. Didn't use the old liner .. too much work to clean it, and prob would just end up becoming a mold sandwich in between the 2 liners!

2. Foam gives the wall a nice soft touch feel! And extra layer of protection from the seam screws.

3. Foam coves def worth it for me.

4. Splurged on the 30ga liner

Now for the Issues:
1. Orig Upright Pavers needed to be moved /replaced bec it looks like our old pool was EXACTLY 27ft across, while this one is 26 ft 10 in..... wth??

I did notice the old wall seam screws were 2 columns, while this new one only had one line going down...

Is this a cost saving move??? 2 in less in diameter

2. But I guess the liner sizing didnt change over the years... so my conclusion is that our new liner might actually be too big for this pool... so more wrinkles

3. To be cont...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Qs: do the top tracks have to be touching each other all around. Should there be gaps? Should they go over the seam screw spot? The top plates dont seem to have a wide enough "track space" to accomodate the entire length of the stabilizer track... if you guys know what i mean..

Unless im supposed to really push the plates down hard? Almost like using a rubber mallet?

With the top tracks touching each other all the way around, theres about 10inches of uncovered area on the wall...

And as you notice , the coping on the other hand has a little extra lol
 

Attachments

  • 20230706_185854.jpg
    20230706_185854.jpg
    509.3 KB · Views: 3
  • 1688684575815569988561455130150.jpg
    1688684575815569988561455130150.jpg
    339 KB · Views: 3
  • 1688684630999942913162705949812.jpg
    1688684630999942913162705949812.jpg
    316.3 KB · Views: 3
In my pool the stabilizer bars don’t all exactly butt up to each other so I would imagine that 1/2” or so of space between them would be ok (not saying this is correct).
As for the plates- here’s what it shows
IMG_6767.png
Hard to tell just how hard he’s womping on it lol 😂 but its the only guidance given! If I recall my installers had a rubber mallet for something- not sure if it was those. Looks like you’re supposed to put the stabilizer rails in the plate from the side then do the wompin’ (that’s my interpretation of the drawing anyway).

 
Mdragger88 said:
In my pool the stabilizer bars don’t all exactly butt up to each other so I would imagine that 1/2” or so of space between them would be ok (not saying this is correct).
As for the plates- here’s what it shows
View attachment 511200
Hard to tell just how hard he’s womping on it lol 😂 but its the only guidance given! If I recall my installers had a rubber mallet for something- not sure if it was those. Looks like you’re supposed to put the stabilizer rails in the plate from the side then do the wompin’ (that’s my interpretation of the drawing anyway).

Click to expand...
Yea , cornelius needs to work on their instruction manuals lol. The printed one that came with the pool might be worse. At least the online one shows which holes to use depending on your pool size.
 
Yea... i ended up using the rubber mallet, and that set the METAL plate flush with the METAL rail. And thats my other issue... this leads to the protective coating of the rails getting scratched off. Doesn't sound like a good thing to me lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply