So after another visit by the local authorized service center, he swapped out the cell with another and still got the same low salt readings. Independent salt test readings by the Taylor kit and the Hayward salt meter both come back around 3100 which is well within spec. But Hayward support says that a deviation of 500ppm is "normal" for instant salt reading. I asked what about the average salt reading, he said need more salt. I don't agree because my salt reading has been off since day 1 when I was at 3600ppm and the unit was way lower as mentioned earlier in this thread. It just so happens now with all the rain and splash out it's down to 3100 which is still normal but the system is reading it as 2300/2400 with the low salt warning. I will comply and add some more salt to get it higher but I do not agree with it being the issue. Hayward tech on the phone with my local tech did not seem overly concerned there was no serial number sticker on the cell. He asked the local tech to read the serial # from the front panel.
New T-CELL-15 Instant Salt Reading Low
- Thread starter PullJunkie
- Start date
No he put the original cell back in. He was going to replace the PCB board but figured he'd call Hayward first and he said I need more salt. Diagnostic readings were all good. No other issues with the cell or the system except salt is reading way low and it seems that if I use the auto ORP sensing mode, it never shuts off or reaches the 650mv level during the 9 hour pump on window I have (but does keep generating chlorine and it gets higher then needed). But if I turn it to timed/percentage based chlorination at 50% it has no issues keeping my levels where I need them. Could an issue with the PCB board cause the cell to read incorrectly and thus, fudge up the calculations the system uses for ORP ?
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The missing serial number is an issue in my opinion.
I would get a replacement cell under warranty.
I would get a replacement cell under warranty.
A Hayward cell missing a sticker is like a vehicle missing a VIN number imo. The serial number on the front panel of the box only refers to how old the box is. If you have updated the main PCB board previously (I haven't read the entire thread) then that serial number is meaningless.
It's been asked with no response before but what are ALL the diagnostic readings on the display?
It's been asked with no response before but what are ALL the diagnostic readings on the display?
I hear ya, but there's no sticker. The place I bought it from (Pool Supply 4 Less) said they get them sealed from the factory and never had one without a sticker. Always a first I guess. If by diagnostics you mean the voltage and amps, they are -26.09v and -6.06a, 84 degrees and 2400 ppm. I thought I posted those earlier in the thread on the first page but I guess not.
Just reviewing your average salt levels from the past three weeks:
7/18 : 2800-2900
7/21: 2700
8/7 : 2400
I recall you saying that you had some splash out from the pool but was it significant? Have you had to drain a lot of water from the pool due excessive rain? Do you have an auto fill device that may be masking a leak somewhere? (of course this doesn't explain why all the other tests are showing 3100-3600 instant salt). Your voltage, amp, and water temp should probably calculate to somewhere between 3300-3600.
You are sure the t-cell setting is T-15?
7/18 : 2800-2900
7/21: 2700
8/7 : 2400
I recall you saying that you had some splash out from the pool but was it significant? Have you had to drain a lot of water from the pool due excessive rain? Do you have an auto fill device that may be masking a leak somewhere? (of course this doesn't explain why all the other tests are showing 3100-3600 instant salt). Your voltage, amp, and water temp should probably calculate to somewhere between 3300-3600.
You are sure the t-cell setting is T-15?
I do not have autofill but I do have alot of splash out with kids and I do add water weekly due to that and/or evap. We also have alot of rain recently so much that I have to pump down to normal skimmer level. So my actual salt did go down some but is no where near the levels being reported by the cell. It is set as a T15 in the controller.
Haywards own salt recommendation is 3200 and I was at 3100 the other day when the tech was here and I had the low salt warning. He was on speaker with the Hayward engineer and that's when the Hayward engineer said "my salt is too low" and that ~500ppm difference between measured levels and the instant reading is acceptable. I do understand the instant levels will always be different but I don't think the difference im seeing is normal. I still think there might be an issue with the controller. When I first fired it up, it vibrated violently and I immediately shut it off and called the authorized service center. When he came, he had to replace the front panel and everything looked good and operated normally except the salt readings.
For what it's worth, I agree with what you are saying. I think the main PCB board is faulty in some way. That's the only thing that hasn't been replaced so Hayward cannot definitely rule that out.
Just an update, a while back I contacted the seller (Pool Supply 4 Less) and they finally got in touch with Hayward about the missing serial number sticker and Hayward sent me out a new T-Cell-15. The new one does have the sticker with serial 3E20247-704915.
mguzzy
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