New SWG install

stikshooter

Active member
Sep 9, 2019
36
Floresville Tx
I am setting up my new pool to a SWG. Pool was installed with chlorine tablet system and has been running with that for about a month now.
I purchase a RJ-45, and I am going to install control panel and SWG. I have a dual speed Hayward Super II pump that is setup to always run when power is on. I run it now on low for 20 hrs a day and 4 hours on high speed. If I want to change how the pump is set up, I will have to install a additional timer.
My question is, should I set it to run all the time, like it is set up now, or add another additional timer and have the pump run less?
 
You can run the SWCG for the entire time the pump is running and decrease the percentage of chlorine generation on the RJ-45 until you reach the desired rate of production. I've never had a two-speed pump, but I assume it's controlled by two timers? If so, you can connect the SWCG to the low-speed timer to produce chlorine for 20 hours per day.

Is there a reason you're running your pump for 24 hours? There's nothing wrong with that, and many folks with VS pumps do it, but it may not be necessary. Here's a link that addresses pump run-times.
 
You only need power to the SWG control panel when the pump is running. This also ensures the SWG only produces chlorine when water is flowing through the cell.

I ran some numbers for you on Pool Math...

The RJ-45 produces 2 lbs (32 oz.) of chlorine. With a pool volume of 12,000 gallons, the RJ will increase FC by 20 ppm per day at 100%. So at 10% for 24 hours, the RJ will increase FC by 2 ppm per day. Set the percentage based on your daily FC loss.

Hope this helps...
 
Mike, the pump is run by one timer. If I want to have power to the SWG controll panel, when the pump is not running then I would have to install another timer. That is the setup the pool company supplied me with.
Depending on what type of timer you have to control the two speeds it may or may not be feasible to use the pump timer for the swg. Some timers have provisions to run an auxiliary feed along with the pump. An additional timer is not too expensive to add if need be. It is safer to run the swg on a timer of some type instead of relying on the flow switch to control on/off function.
 
That is the exact setup that I have, T104/T106. I use a couple different settings through the year depending on the weather. During the winter I run 100% of the time on low-speed for 6 hours each day. Just this week I decided to start warming up the pool so I turned on the solar and adjusted the run time and speeds. I now have two-high speed periods and two low-speed periods each day. As the weather warms up I will extend the run time of the pump. With this setup the SWG turns on/off with the pump so I control the amount of FC mainly by the percentage output on the SWG.

To add the SWG I wired it to the T104 on 2, 4 and ground.
 
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Again, You basically run the pump only as long as it takes to get the FC up where you needed it to be. Running SWCG higher percent will lend itself to a much shorter time the pump will need to be on for chlorination purposes. Lowering the percentage on the SWCG will give you more pump time with the same FC output. Just as an example, 2 hours of 100% is the same as 4 hours at 50%. The rest of the pump time is for your skimming and filtering needs or wants.
 
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I run my pump on low speed 24x7 from April until around Sept..I will start mine on the lowest setting and if it gets too high I will add a timer.
I just bought the Edge40 and haven't installed it yet. But looking forward to NOT having to hold my eyes and run every time I open a bucket of pucks every week :)
 
I run my pump on low speed 24x7 from April until around Sept..I will start mine on the lowest setting and if it gets too high I will add a timer.
I just bought the Edge40 and haven't installed it yet. But looking forward to NOT having to hold my eyes and run every time I open a bucket of pucks every week :)
Just make sure you bring the chlorine level up to where it should be with liquid chlorine first and then let the SWCG take over. A common mistake people make starting the SWCG with the FC -0 . By the time the FC gets to where you want it to be there's an algae bloom lingering and then they get stumped by not understanding how that can happen after they spent money thinking it's an all in fix.
 
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Just make sure you bring the chlorine level up to where it should be with liquid chlorine first and then let the SWCG take over. A common mistake people make starting the SWCG with the FC -0 . By the time the time the FC gets to where you want it to be there's an algae bloom lingering and then they get stumped by not understanding how that can happen after they spent money thinking it's an all in fix.

good point, thanks!!
 
View attachment 127131View attachment 127132i
I installed the T104 to work with the T106 timer. I still need to add SWG and flow meter.
If my pool has never had salt added, shouldn’t I be able to start adding salt per recommended ratio and swap over from tablets to salt?

Looks good. Yes you can add salt ahead of time. I did this to be sure my wife liked it. You can use tablets or liquid.

Chris
 
Before you add any salt, get a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit and determine what your actual salt level is. When I converted to SWCG last May, my salt level was very high(3200 PPM) without adding any salt due to having used liquid Chlorine for several years without draining the pool. I had a salt water pool and didn't even know it!

Between the SWCG, Robot and using hair nets in my skimmers my pool is a cinch to take care of.

Gary
 
Yes definitely do what Gary said. Mine was over 1000 ppm and almost all pools will be high enough to affect the salt added calculation. Add salt to the low end. It's easier to mix if you have any residual.
 

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