New salt pool - Pool guy wrong? Or me?

[PoolStored]

Ok, PH still continues to rise, and as I add acid TA keeps going down. TA ideal range according to pool math is 60-80. It doesnt seem like I should have to add acid daily, might as well be adding chlorine daily to my chlorine pool.
I'll read some threads and articles on TFP for this.

I'm using LC with a Stenner. My TA is about 70-80. I added Borates. My pH is REALLY stable. I haven't added MA in 2 months.

Thinking of converting to SWG, and my fear is that I will have to add MA. That I will be trading telling alexa to add Chlorine, to telling alexa to add MA. In my reading here, there are some that run TA well below 60, and have found the pH rise to slow. I also know that Borates help buffer that pH rise. Might read up on both.

BTW, I added and maintain 50-60ppm Borates. Me and my better half LOVE it. Look and feel. My pH is Super Stable. I love my borates and would do it again in a heartbeat. Don't know enough about Borates with SWG, but I think if you search around the threads, you may find that Lower TA, and Borates will help your acid demand.

 

[revitup]

Thinking of converting to SWG, and my fear is that I will have to add MA. That I will be trading telling alexa to add Chlorine, to telling alexa to add MA. In my reading here, there are some that run TA well below 60, and have found the pH rise to slow.

We have salt. PH remains rock steady at 7.5-7.8 with TA 60. We check PH about every 2 weeks. Can not remember the last time I added any except once to lower PH for a stain treatment. The muriatic jug is in the shed with cobwebs on it.

 

[TexEdmond]

This is going to be the year, I just know it

Bro, as a Fort Worth kid growing up in the 80s/90s, I just gotta let you know, Coach Joe is dead, any decent head coach that'd tell Jerry where to stick it got fired, and any drama creating gunslinger that'd put butts in seats has already been hired and fired and moved on. In the Garrett / Romo years I used to say the only three things wrong with that ball team was the owner, the head coach, and the quarterback. But my goodness... Switzer won a Superbowl with a handoff team on the one yard line. With Moose Johnson and that O line blocking for Emmett Smith?! I could win a Superbowl coaching that squad.

The time has come to understand fully that, "A fish rots from the head down." The team can't win with the owner making the moves he makes, just to put money in his pocket.

 

[TexEdmond]

Thinking of converting to SWG, and my fear is that I will have to add MA. That I will be trading telling alexa to add Chlorine, to telling alexa to add MA. In my reading here, there are some that run TA well below 60, and have found the pH rise to slow. I also know that Borates

I did the SWG conversion and am still adding acid, so don't wait another minute... Buy the gear because it took weeks for mine to come in stock. I realized tonight I wasn't adding the exact amount of acid I originally thought, but it's been heck trying to get my TA below 70. Still trying. My fill water is ~230 TA and I'm adding quite a bit these days.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

I miss the Landry years of my childhood.

 

[EDAM72]

Thanks all, latest test. PH still climbing, getting TA down to 50 (it was the other day and came back up). I am watching the video posted and other research here on TA PH and salt pool. May try the Borates thing is TFP recommends it to help.

FC 5
CC 0
PH 7.8
TA 60
CH 900
CYA 70
Salt 3800
CSI .25

 

[Bperry]

Thanks all, latest test. PH still climbing, getting TA down to 50 (it was the other day and came back up). I am watching the video posted and other research here on TA PH and salt pool. May try the Borates thing is TFP recommends it to help.

FC 5
CC 0
PH 7.8
TA 60
CH 900
CYA 70
Salt 3800
CSI .25

I’d be more worried about the high CH and what it’s doing to the CSI, unless 900 is kinda where you are forced to be with your fill water?

 

[EDAM72]

I’d be more worried about the high CH and what it’s doing to the CSI, unless 900 is kinda where you are forced to be with your fill water?

Thanks, Yes, the pool has been a little unloved. I plan on draining, cleaning and refilling in upcoming off-season. Just wanted to get the chemistry right now and the strategy so I know when i redo it how to manage. Since I have got the chems in the right level the system has been throwing a bunch of what looks like calcium deposits into pool. So I figure the acid is slowly eating away at calcium buildup in the pipes and equipment.
Fill water is high TA, about 130, and CH of 120.

 

[Bperry]

Thanks, Yes, the pool has been a little unloved. I plan on draining, cleaning and refilling in upcoming off-season. Just wanted to get the chemistry right now and the strategy so I know when i redo it how to manage. Since I have got the chems in the right level the system has been throwing a bunch of what looks like calcium deposits into pool. So I figure the acid is slowly eating away at calcium buildup in the pipes and equipment.
Fill water is high TA, about 130, and CH of 120.

I think the calcium scaling is because your CSI is in the positive range. If you keep it negative, it’ll tend not to scale.

 

[red-beard]

Thanks all, latest test. PH still climbing, getting TA down to 50 (it was the other day and came back up). I am watching the video posted and other research here on TA PH and salt pool. May try the Borates thing is TFP recommends it to help.

FC 5
CC 0
PH 7.8
TA 60
CH 900
CYA 70
Salt 3800
CSI .25

Look at the CA correction charts from TA. You may want to add 50 ppm Borates and get your CYA to 80. With a TA of 60-70, your CA will be in the 30's, which should slow down the pH rise. Mine now maxes out at 8.0 and I add about 1 qt of MA every 10-14 days.

 

[EDAM72]

Look at the CA correction charts from TA. You may want to add 50 ppm Borates and get your CYA to 80. With a TA of 60-70, your CA will be in the 30's, which should slow down the pH rise. Mine now maxes out at 8.0 and I add about 1 qt of MA every 10-14 days.

I am going to try the Borax Acid 55 pound bucket from DudaDiesel. The price has gone up since reading last posts around this. $79 for 55 gal bucket, $39 to ship. Oddly other sources like amazon and walmart have it (from Duda as well) with free shipping but the price jumps to $114. So not really free shipping. It says I need 30 pounds to get to 50 ppm. I know I'll need another bucket once I drain and clean pool, but this will let me test borates before redoing pool water. I guess I just get an extra bucket and scale and put 30 pounds in to slowly add to pool. I was reading some of the other TFP threads around this and it seems to help most people with their PH rise. My TA is hovering from 50-60 (as I add acid to get PH down). I see conflicting advice for adding Boric acid. But it seems to be that if I have my TA around 50 and PH is 7.2-7.8 I can add the boric acid. If I don't get great results I can leave it out at next fill once I start fresh.

 

[EDAM72]

Hi All, just wanted to close this out. I added the 30PPM Boric acid and have been watching it now. Process was super easy. Added 30 pounds for my pool. Dissolved pretty quick, brushed it around. Been over a week now and PH is staying steady. It is time for a drain and fill this winter anyway, so I will definitely be adding the boric acid back in when done to make this a super easy pool.
Thanks all!

 

[Flying Tivo]

(late to the party)
I would not add Borates just yet since you will be draining next year. That is money down the drain. I would just try to keep Ph 7.2-7.6 for the rest of the year so you have a -CSI. Look into a stenner pump for Acid additions, you will love it.