New RJ-30+ cell, zero amps, 28v, 0000 salinity?

[djdonte]

I did a search but this seems to be a new one. I just had my cell replaced under warranty. All seemed good, the control box numbers looked good and saw bubbly haze in the cells when generating. However, ever since the new cell, the pool has had trouble holding FC. I bumped up the CYA to 80 since it was getting hot. In the past, anytime the SWG wasn't keeping up, low CYA was the culprit. I passed an OCLT no problem just to be safe. I also increased run time from 8 to 10 hours again since its getting into the 90s. A week or so later, today I have 1.5FC. Not good.

I added a gallon of FC earlier and when I went to turn off my SWG so I could get my sun down reading for an OCLT, I noticed the generate light was not on and no haze from the cell even with it at 100 percent. As I scroll thru the readout, I have 28.2 volts, 0.00 amps and 0000 salinity. I freaking knew it. This thing has not been producing all the time like it should be. I turned it off then back on and it started generating but I dont trust this thing. I guess I'll call DSP tomorrow, but has anyone ever had this issue? I am not looking forward to SLAMing at this CYA level.

The pool still looks sparkly so I am really hoping I caught it in time and passed the OCLT but I am not hopeful. When I first started having troubles, I tested the phosphates since DSP is quick to blame that if you can't hold FC. It was about 500 so I treated with Orenda and now phosphates tested off the charts. I am reading algae shows up on the test so I am guessing that's what is causing the darker blue color on the test. Below is a video.

 

[Bperry]

I did a search but this seems to be a new one. I just had my cell replaced under warranty. All seemed good, the control box numbers looked good and saw bubbly haze in the cells when generating. However, ever since the new cell, the pool has had trouble holding FC. I bumped up the CYA to 80 since it was getting hot. In the past, anytime the SWG wasn't keeping up, low CYA was the culprit. I passed an OCLT no problem just to be safe. I also increased run time from 8 to 10 hours again since its getting into the 90s. A week or so later, today I have 1.5FC. Not good.

I added a gallon of FC earlier and when I went to turn off my SWG so I could get my sun down reading for an OCLT, I noticed the generate light was not on and no haze from the cell even with it at 100 percent. As I scroll thru the readout, I have 28.2 volts, 0.00 amps and 0000 salinity. I freaking knew it. This thing has not been producing all the time like it should be. I turned it off then back on and it started generating but I dont trust this thing. I guess I'll call DSP tomorrow, but has anyone ever had this issue? I am not looking forward to SLAMing at this CYA level.

The pool still looks sparkly so I am really hoping I caught it in time and passed the OCLT but I am not hopeful. When I first started having troubles, I tested the phosphates since DSP is quick to blame that if you can't hold FC. It was about 500 so I treated with Orenda and now phosphates tested off the charts. I am reading algae shows up on the test so I am guessing that's what is causing the darker blue color on the test. Below is a video.

The cells produce chlorine on a duty cycle. That means when they are “on” they produce chlorine for a few minutes and then stop for a few minutes. The exact amout of time depends on the power setting.

Make sure it just wasnt in the “off” portion of the duty cycle before tearing things up.

 

[djdonte]

I have it set at 100 percent so I don’t believe it should be cycling at all but I could be wrong. In the years I’ve had this system I’ve always ran it at 100 and never seen this.

 

[Bperry]

I have it set at 100 percent so I don’t believe it should be cycling at all but I could be wrong. In the years I’ve had this system I’ve always ran it at 100 and never seen this.

It wont stay producing even at 100%. It reverses polarity and Im pretty sure it still pauses, though Ive never run it at 100%. Just make sure to check.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Double check the connections going into the control center. Wiggle and shake. Also try pushing Super CL on the control panel.

 

[djdonte]

I did check the connection. Clean and dry with a little dielectric lube.

As for the polarity reversing, I don’t believe the generate light turns off like that when it does it, but I’ll ask DSP. It’s been a while but I’m pretty sure it just slowly ramps down then into negative without just hanging like that.

 

[djdonte]

Well I lost 3FC overnight. Great.

 

[setsailsoon]

Well I lost 3FC overnight. Great.

Dj,

Looks like you're going to need to SLAM. While you're doing that have you tested salt with a K-1766 test kit? I found that's the best way. Reason I ask is that I know you guys have had a massive amount of rain over last few weeks. When this happens your level control (or pool overflowing) causes a lot of salt loss. Low salt may be a part of your problem.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

 

[setsailsoon]

I did a search but this seems to be a new one. I just had my cell replaced under warranty. All seemed good, the control box numbers looked good and saw bubbly haze in the cells when generating. However, ever since the new cell, the pool has had trouble holding FC. I bumped up the CYA to 80 since it was getting hot. In the past, anytime the SWG wasn't keeping up, low CYA was the culprit. I passed an OCLT no problem just to be safe. I also increased run time from 8 to 10 hours again since its getting into the 90s. A week or so later, today I have 1.5FC. Not good.

I added a gallon of FC earlier and when I went to turn off my SWG so I could get my sun down reading for an OCLT, I noticed the generate light was not on and no haze from the cell even with it at 100 percent. As I scroll thru the readout, I have 28.2 volts, 0.00 amps and 0000 salinity. I freaking knew it. This thing has not been producing all the time like it should be. I turned it off then back on and it started generating but I dont trust this thing. I guess I'll call DSP tomorrow, but has anyone ever had this issue? I am not looking forward to SLAMing at this CYA level.

The pool still looks sparkly so I am really hoping I caught it in time and passed the OCLT but I am not hopeful. When I first started having troubles, I tested the phosphates since DSP is quick to blame that if you can't hold FC. It was about 500 so I treated with Orenda and now phosphates tested off the charts. I am reading algae shows up on the test so I am guessing that's what is causing the darker blue color on the test. Below is a video.

Dj,

Looks like you're going to need to SLAM. While you're doing that have you tested salt with a K-1766 test kit? I found that's the best way. Reason I ask is that I know you guys have had a massive amount of rain over last few weeks. When this happens your level control (or pool overflowing) causes a lot of salt loss. Low salt may be a part of your problem.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

This might be helpful too.

 

[djdonte]

I tested salt with that kit but a few weeks ago. I will check again, but I don't believe my salt is low enough to cause problems. I was running slightly high salt at DSP's request before they replaced the cell because my old cell was reading low. The new cell is reading within 3-500ish ppm of my test kit when it properly runs. The old cell was way off. I need about 3 gallons of 10 percent to get to SLAM levels. The best LC I could find was bottled in early April at HD. I guess I'll so a haul today.

 

[setsailsoon]

I tested salt with that kit but a few weeks ago. I will check again, but I don't believe my salt is low enough to cause problems. I was running slightly high salt at DSP's request before they replaced the cell because my old cell was reading low. The new cell is reading within 3-500ish ppm of my test kit when it properly runs. The old cell was way off. I need about 3 gallons of 10 percent to get to SLAM levels. The best LC I could find was bottled in early April at HD. I guess I'll so a haul today.

OK, might be worth a shot. I found Circupool CS to be very helpful so I'm sure they'll help you track down the issue. They can be a little bone-headed about phosphates but I also think they have a lot of trouble with owners that mistakenly think the unit's not making FC when their pools are actually loaded with algae so it's one way they rule this out. Thing that puzzles me is that at 100% you should be making chlorine a lot of the time except when the polarity is changing. What does the CS guy say about that? Almost sounds like more of a control or connection problem. Double check your wiring for the new cell. If that's good you might ask them if they can let you use a known good controller to test it out. They're located over by the airport so you might be able to pick one up or take your unit over to be tested. If your unit is good then I'd say there's a bad connection somewhere.

I'd guess you're gonna need more than 3 gal. if you're at 80 CYA also you'll need to hold it for a while which will take at least a few days so more FC addition. Remember "M" is for maintain.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

 

[djdonte]

My CYA tested at 70 last night probably from the rain, so I need about 3 gallons to get to SLAM, but yes I'll need plenty more to complete the process.

DSP watched my video and told me that is unusual. I am sending them the box and cell tomorrow morning.

 

[djdonte]

I completed the SLAM so I am positive I have nothing brewing in the water. Just to be safe I am going to treat the 125 ppb of phosphates I have before I clean the filter.

DSP says they tested the cell and control module, and nothing is wrong. They ran it for about an hour. I'm a bit frustrated. I guess all I can do it try it again and keep a better eye on it. The only thing she could think to tell me is double check that the cell connector is firmly in the module. Apparently if the connection isn't great it's possible to have no amps or volts and no warning lights either.

 

[Texas Splash]

DSP says they tested the cell and control module, and nothing is wrong.

That does seem odd. Your first comment about seeing 28.8V but then nothing on the others doesn't add-up. When my system is resting, the volts, amps, and slainitty are all zero. Only when the system is generating do I see volts, amps, and salinity.

FWIW, if you do treat with with a good product from Orenda or Seaklear, none of that watered-down pool store junk. I did perform a PR treatment when my cell seemed to be underperforming and it appeared to have helped, but I don’t think that’s your issue. Not with the odd module read-outs.

 

[djdonte]

Yeah I have some Orenda on order. Phosfree clogs up my filter cartridges pretty quickly. They had the same video I posted here as well.

 

[djdonte]

Well I got the cell back and it’s doing the exact same thing, except this time power cycling won’t fix it. I double checked all connections. Verified my ground is good, 120 on each hot leg and 240 total is going to the box. Tech support seemed pretty stumped. They had me play with it for a bit and then they said they could sell me a “like new” control box for 275 with a 90 day warranty. The cell is brand new so they are pretty confident that’s not the issue. Oof.

I’m going out of town for the weekend but my parents want to use my pool so I’m sure they’ll be nice enough to dose it with LC for me.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

That doesn't seem like a horrible deal. I assume the warranty has completely passed now? The only thing I would try is hooking up 120 volts to it and changing the jumpers internally. Couldn't hurt and costs you nothing.

 

[setsailsoon]

I'm guessing you must be out of warranty and if that's the case and if you go for the rebuilt option I would at least make sure they will refund your money if this doesn't solve the problem.

Chris

 

[djdonte]

I’m in 40 percent warranty right now. He said this would be way cheaper. Perhaps I’ll try the 120 route.

 

[djdonte]

220 wiring doesn’t have a neutral. For 120 do I just hook one hot and the other to the ground?