New pool owner with questions: CYA, Salt, Chlorine and other stuff

Frankw1

Member
Dec 28, 2020
16
Dallas tx
Just bought a house with a pool. Pool appears to have been kept up very well and is only about 10 years old. In North Texas (Dallas) area.

I knew nothing about pool keeping and have learned a bunch from online sources including this group. Very thankful for everybody here. One of the more positive aspects of social media and crowd sourcing, I suppose.

Anyway, been running my chemistries, and for the most part, I've been able to keep most in line and within (or close) to acceptable values. Except for two: Salt and CYA.

The system is a SWG 15,000 gallons, however, when we moved in in October, the salt cell had probably stopped generating chlorine due to cooler temps - I'm getting a very low to 0 salt reading. When we moved in, the chlorine floater was in the pool with several chlorine tabs in it. Since my first test, the CYA has been hovering way above the 100 mark (only goes to 100) since I moved in. I suspect that it might be around 300-500+ but don't know. Regardless way too high!

Couple of questions. Am I heading down the right path in assuming that?:
  1. CYA wouldn't be that high unless the SWG had not been working for quite some time (probably back before the summer) and they had just been using chlorine tablets as the main source of chlorine for quite some time - possibly throughout at least last summer and possibly longer? What else would explain the the super high CYA?
  2. It seems like the CYA wouldn't be that high if they only floated tabs for the month or so since the temps lowered after this summer and the SWG shut down, right?
  3. I have stopped floating tabs and am starting to use bleach, hoping that I can at least stop the rise of the CYA.
  4. I know that the only way to properly and more quickly lower CYA is to do a water dump. However, since I've stopped using tabs and I continue to top the pool off with fresh water when needed (there is a small fountain bubbler, a water fall, and lots of wind so I get some pretty good surface interaction and evaporation) will that not be enough to eventually start bringing the CYA down? 3-4 more months of top-offs and the CYA could work its way down towards normal?
  5. Also, since I suspect the SWG has not been used in a while, is there a way to know if it is is broken and/or has not been performing like it should for a while even though it has shut itself down due to low temps. IOW, can I test it now in December to see if it is still a good working cell? Diagnostics, etc? How much for new one?
  6. I have calculated (to the best of my ability) that a total pool refill will run me less than $200. Is that possible? Seems very inexpensive but not complaining. Anything else I need to consider? Do the dump myself or have someone do it for me? Tips/tricks?
Don't know if I'm thinking properly here or not, but I feel like it's all kind of starting to come together. Thanks in advance to anyone who cares to chime in
 
  1. CYA wouldn't be that high unless the SWG had not been working for quite some time (probably back before the summer) and they had just been using chlorine tablets as the main source of chlorine for quite some time - possibly throughout at least last summer and possibly longer? What else would explain the the super high CYA?
That's likely what happened. SWGs wear out. They have a finite lifespan. If they knew they were selling and the SWG pooped out, they probably wouldn't have replaced it.
  1. It seems like the CYA wouldn't be that high if they only floated tabs for the month or so since the temps lowered after this summer and the SWG shut down, right?
Correct. You can do a diluted CYA test to get a ballpark CYA level. You can then use that to determine how much water to exchange.
  1. I have stopped floating tabs and am starting to use bleach, hoping that I can at least stop the rise of the CYA.
Good. It will.
  1. I know that the only way to properly and more quickly lower CYA is to do a water dump. However, since I've stopped using tabs and I continue to top the pool off with fresh water when needed (there is a small fountain bubbler, a water fall, and lots of wind so I get some pretty good surface interaction and evaporation) will that not be enough to eventually start bringing the CYA down? 3-4 more months of top-offs and the CYA could work its way down towards normal?
Not anytime soon. Evaporation will not rid your pool of CYA (or salt, or calcium). Those things do not evaporate with the water, they collect and accumulate as you add them. CYA does breakdown over time, but a long time. Plus, you might have accumulated unwanted salt and calcium, too. We would need a full suite of test results to better advise you on all that. And how much water needs to be replaced. Do you have a proper test kit? One of the two we recommend?
  1. Also, since I suspect the SWG has not been used in a while, is there a way to know if it is is broken and/or has not been performing like it should for a while even though it has shut itself down due to low temps. IOW, can I test it now in December to see if it is still a good working cell? Diagnostics, etc? How much for new one?
Depends on the brand and model. Can you be more specific about your equipment in your signature? Include your test kit model. Something like my sig is especially helpful when answering questions.
  1. I have calculated (to the best of my ability) that a total pool refill will run me less than $200. Is that possible?
Sure. Mine is only about $75. Depends on the size of your pool and where you live (the cost of the water).
  1. Anything else I need to consider? Do the dump myself or have someone do it for me? Tips/tricks?
Check with your water company. Some use these winter months to calculate your sewer charges. Don't fill the pool while they're doing that.

Exchanging water is not hard to do. Go fast. Pools don't like to be empty. It's not good for the plaster finish. It's not good for the structure.

Don't empty your pool if the surrounding water table is high. You can float your pool right out of the ground if the conditions are wrong. Check with local authorities (or neighbors) about your local water table.

Rent a pump from Home Depot to empty the pool quickly.

If you decide to drain your pool 100% (which may or may not be necessary), you can use this rare opportunity to determine your true water volume
- Empty the pool.
- Take a snapshot of your water meter reading (out by the street somewhere).
- Fill the pool to halfway up the skimmer opening (the optimum level).
- Limit water use while filling: skip showers and laundry and dishwashing, minimum flushes, turn off irrigation systems, etc.
- When done filling, take another snapshot of your water meter reading. The difference between the two meter readings will be your water volume, ±1-2% (typical water meter accuracy)
 
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Here's some instructions for testing CYA, including an optional test (diluted test) if your CYA is "off the scale."

 
If you don't have one of these two recommended test kits, ordering one is your first step. The TF-100 is highly recommended. I have the other one. Both do the same job (same manufacturer), it's more a matter of size, quantities and cost effectiveness between the two.

 
Frank,

I suggest that you check with your City about refilling a pool. In my area, the city will wave the sewer part of the water bill if you ask before filling a pool.

$200 bucks sounds a little high for our area, but even if correct, it would be well worth the money to drain and refill.

You don't know how much it pains me, but I have to agree with everything that Dirk said... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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