New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

[Newdude]

Walmart is probably your best bet up north. There will be a # stamped on the bottle like milk. 25 (2025) 023 (made on the 23rd day of 2025) and then other #s we don't care about.



Do simple math in the aisle with 30 day months. 25 100 is 3 full months plus 10 days, so April 10th, 2025.


You want 3 months or less old, the fresher the better. Dig in the back of the shelf, also like milk.

 

[PoolStored]

What liquid chlorine do you recommend when I have more time to get it?

Pool Essentials Liquid Chorine from Walmart.

Also, instead of liquid chlorine, can’t I just up the percentage on my SWG. I lowered it a couple days ago to 20% from 40% after analyzing a test strip. Should I put it back to 40% tomorrow when I turn my SWG back on from adding the salt tonight?

Sure, you can up the SWG % tomorrow. Are you running 24/7? If so, set it to 80% output.

Still need your signature to know your cell and output% and pump runtime to help you. Fill out your signature.

 

[Pas_pool]

Walmart is probably your best bet up north. There will be a # stamped on the bottle like milk. 25 (2025) 023 (made on the 23rd day of 2025) and then other #s we don't care about.

View attachment 642000

Do simple math in the aisle with 30 day months. 25 100 is 3 full months plus 10 days, so April 10th, 2025.


You want 3 months or less old, the fresher the better. Dig in the back of the shelf, also like milk.

Makes sense. I’ll get a couple gallons.

 

[Pas_pool]

Pool Essentials Liquid Chorine from Walmart.

Sure, you can up the SWG % tomorrow. Are you running 24/7? If so, set it to 80% output.

Still need your signature to know your cell and output% and pump runtime to help you. Fill out your signature.

Why so high if you don’t mind me asking? Won’t the FC shoot really high at 80%. What is normal run %?

I’ll fill out that signature now

 

[PoolStored]

You have low CYA. I have no idea what cell you have or output capacity or pump runtime. It is highly unlikely, even if you run a 2x cell size your pool volume you will not exceed SLAM level FC running for 24 hours at 80%.
Chorine is king. Creating chlorine will stave off any algae growth you have.
I chose 80%, because running at 100% is one of the quickest ways to kill a cell.
For OCLT you need at least 3 FC.
You are at 2.5. with CYA of *mabye* 20.
Slam level fc with cya of 20 is 8.
Likely your cell at 80% *might* increase your FC from 2.5 to 8 maybe not.
Fill out your signature, and post your pump runtimes.

 

[Pas_pool]

You have low CYA. I have no idea what cell you have or output capacity or pump runtime. It is highly unlikely, even if you run a 2x cell size your pool volume you will not exceed SLAM level FC running for 24 hours at 80%.
Chorine is king. Creating chlorine will stave off any algae growth you have.
I chose 80%, because running at 100% is one of the quickest ways to kill a cell.
For OCLT you need at least 3 FC.
You are at 2.5. with CYA of *mabye* 20.
Slam level fc with cya of 20 is 8.
Likely your cell at 80% *might* increase your FC from 2.5 to 8 maybe not.
Fill out your signature, and post your pump runtimes.

I just added my signature with all details of equipment. I was confused why I had to add it there as it lists it under my name when I post because I updated my profile on here.
I’ll have my wife go out and get some liquid chlorine at the local pool store tomorrow.

As for pump run times the pump is set for:
8-10am is high speed
10am-8pm is low speed
8pm-10pm on medium speed
10pm - 8am is off

 

[PoolStored]

I see your signature. Thanks!

You have a variable speed pump. No reason to run at high speed. You run your pump for a reason.

Read the section on "pump runtimes" here:

Pump Basics - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I’ll have my wife go out and get some liquid chlorine at the local pool store tomorrow.

Make sure she knows how to decode chlorine production dates to ensure quality. Have her observe where it is being stored.

Chlorine Date Code Decoder - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Breakdown of Bleach Over Time by Storage Temp - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Pas_pool]

I see your signature. Thanks!

You have a variable speed pump. No reason to run at high speed. You run your pump for a reason.

Read the section on "pump runtimes" here:

Pump Basics - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Make sure she knows how to decode chlorine production dates to ensure quality. Have her observe where it is being stored.

Chlorine Date Code Decoder - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Breakdown of Bleach Over Time by Storage Temp - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

So what would you recommend for run times? Medium instead of high from 8-10am? I saw in that article that some run their pump on low 24/7

 

[PoolStored]

Read the section on "pump runtimes" here:

Pump Basics - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Pas_pool]

Read the section on "pump runtimes" here:

Pump Basics - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I did read that. Doesn’t really give guidance to a run time schedule.

 

[PoolStored]

I did read that. Doesn’t really give guidance to a run time schedule.

You should run the pump for a reason. Consider both speed and duration if you have a VS pump and automation. Reasons for running the pump can be:

• Mix chemicals: Low speed for 1/2 hour is fine for chlorine and acid additions. Salt, calcium, and stabilizer can require more circulation at higher speeds.
• SWG: Clean filter flow off speed + 200RPM, for whatever duration you need for the % output of the SWG.
• Filter: Low speed is better for filtering. Filter long enough so you are happy with the water.
• Skim: Run the lowest speed that get you sufficient skimming. Run for long enough to get the results you want.
• Heater: Run at the speed that gives you enough flow for the heater and run for the duration you need to heat.
• Vacuum: sufficient RPM to operate the vacuum for as long as necessary to clean satisfactorily.

Some of us with VS pumps and a SWG like to run our pump 24/7 at low speed and always add some chlorine to the water.

I think it does. Run your VSP at low speed 24/7.
Start with clean filter, slow your VSP until the SWG goes off, add 200 RPM.. Run there.
If it doesn't skim to your satisfaction, turn up the RPM for 24/7 at a speed that skims, or add a period of time that runs higher RPM and skims what you want.
If you have a heater, the RPM must be enough to provide sufficient flow for the heater.
etc.

It is all a dance.

I run 1400 RPM 24/7. If I'm heating, I run 2200 to provide flow for the heater. I have solar cover, so 1400 is plenty to skim.

 

[Pas_pool]

You should run the pump for a reason. Consider both speed and duration if you have a VS pump and automation. Reasons for running the pump can be:

• Mix chemicals: Low speed for 1/2 hour is fine for chlorine and acid additions. Salt, calcium, and stabilizer can require more circulation at higher speeds.
• SWG: Clean filter flow off speed + 200RPM, for whatever duration you need for the % output of the SWG.
• Filter: Low speed is better for filtering. Filter long enough so you are happy with the water.
• Skim: Run the lowest speed that get you sufficient skimming. Run for long enough to get the results you want.
• Heater: Run at the speed that gives you enough flow for the heater and run for the duration you need to heat.
• Vacuum: sufficient RPM to operate the vacuum for as long as necessary to clean satisfactorily.

Some of us with VS pumps and a SWG like to run our pump 24/7 at low speed and always add some chlorine to the water.

I think it does. Run your VSP at low speed 24/7.
Start with clean filter, slow your VSP until the SWG goes off, add 200 RPM.. Run there.
If it doesn't skim to your satisfaction, turn up the RPM for 24/7 at a speed that skims, or add a period of time that runs higher RPM and skims what you want.
If you have a heater, the RPM must be enough to provide sufficient flow for the heater.
etc.

It is all a dance.

I run 1400 RPM 24/7. If I'm heating, I run 2200 to provide flow for the heater. I have solar cover, so 1400 is plenty to skim.

Thanks. Some of that makes sense. Remember I’m all new to this.

First, I’ll need to lookup how to adjust the run time schedule for my pump. Next, what do your mean SWG goes off? If I don’t adjust the % all the way down I thought it is always on?

Also, I don’t think I can adjust my rpm’s by 200. It only shows three speeds. Low, high, and medium.

As for skimming, between my two skimmers and my betta SE I haven’t had any issues with debris staying on the top. But it has only been a couple weeks of having the pool.

And we do have an electric heat pump. So for example, when it heating I would just increase the mode from low to medium?

So is high only for things like cleaning or when adding chemicals? Why do they even have it?

 

[Pas_pool]

View attachment 642000

Do simple math in the aisle with 30 day months. 25 100 is 3 full months plus 10 days, so April 10th, 2025.

You lost me with this part. Can you explain?

 

[Pas_pool]

The possibility of algae just baffles my wife and I. I know it can still be there when the pool looks clear, but it has only been 2 weeks of fresh water being put in and look the pool looks crystal clear

 

[Pas_pool]

Here is my pump speeds and duration currently.

 

[Newdude]

You lost me with this part. Can you explain?

You can pull out your phone in the aisle and Google the 'Julian date #' to see when the jug was produced, or get it really really close with simple math. If the # says 25 264 for example, that was made in 2025 on the 264th day. 8X30 = 240, plus 24 days. 8 full months is the end of august, plus 24 days. So the jug was made on September 24th.

The possibility of algae just baffles my wife and I.

This is why you are trusting us telling you to trust the testing. Algae is microscopic and by the time you can see its exponential growth, you are trying to stop a runaway train. The test kit throws the red flags and tells you what you cant see yet.

For example. Brake warning / idiot lights on a stopped train. But I'm stopped !!!! Yeah. But you really really really don't want to get moving 80MPH until the brakes have been inspected.

 

[Pas_pool]

You can pull out your phone in the aisle and Google the 'Julian date #' to see when the jug was produced, or get it really really close with simple math. If the # says 25 264 for example, that was made in 2025 on the 264th day. 8X30 = 240, plus 24 days. 8 full months is the end of august, plus 24 days. So the jug was made on September 24th.

This is why you are trusting us telling you to trust the testing. Algae is microscopic and by the time you can see its exponential growth, you are trying to stop a runaway train. The test kit throws the red flags and tells you what you cant see yet.

For example. Brake warning / idiot lights on a stopped train. But I'm stopped !!!! Yeah. But you really really really don't want to get moving 80MPH until the brakes have been inspected.

All makes complete sense. Appreciate all the help so far. I’m going out on my lunch today to pick up some liquid chlorine. And I’ll do the overnight test tonight.

 

[PoolStored]

First, I’ll need to lookup how to adjust the run time schedule for my pump. Next, what do your mean SWG goes off? If I don’t adjust the % all the way down I thought it is always on?

SWG should have a flow switch. When you have low flow it will turn the SWG off. Post some pictures of your pad.

Also, I don’t think I can adjust my rpm’s by 200. It only shows three speeds. Low, high, and medium.

Superflo is adjustable in 10 RPM increments, read the manual, you can manually lower the speed. You can also change your speeds/runtime for each of the 3 programs.

As for skimming, between my two skimmers and my betta SE I haven’t had any issues with debris staying on the top. But it has only been a couple weeks of having the pool.

Great.

And we do have an electric heat pump. So for example, when it heating I would just increase the mode from low to medium?

You did not list your heat pump in your equipment. List your heat pump in your signature. With a superflo you likely need to run ~2200 to get proper flo. Post the heat pump make/model and we can adjust from there.

So is high only for things like cleaning or when adding chemicals? Why do they even have it?

I don't ever run "high," except to prime.

 

[laprjns]

Sorry. I'm a bit late on this thread.

Your best bet on short notice is Pool Essential Liquid Chlorine at Walmart.

Pas lives in the land of Ocean State Job Lot, a slightly better deal than Walmart at $5.99 a gallon for 12.5% . Always fresh stock during the pool season, just make sure you check the date codes. Buy the four-pack in the boxes and avoid the individual jugs on the shelf, they are usually older date codes.

 

[Pas_pool]

Sorry. I'm a bit late on this thread.

Pas lives in the land of Ocean State Job Lot, a slightly better deal than Walmart at $5.99 a gallon for 12.5% . Always fresh stock during the pool season, just make sure you check the date codes. Buy the four-pack in the boxes and avoid the individual jugs on the shelf, they are usually older date codes.

Yes. I heard that they carry chlorine! I don’t have any really close to me. I went to a pool store near my work to just get me by this test. Then I can shop for deals.