New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

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Okay, so I bought the TF Pro Salt test kit. We just did all of the tests for the first time. Here are our results (minus the CYA test)

PH: 8
TA: 150
CH: 150
Salt: 3,000

Free chlorine: 4
CC: 0

As for CYA. Any tips on that test? My wife and I couldn’t get the black dot obscured while looking down at it at waist high when adding the CYA mixture.

And as for the other results. Any recommendations on how much muriatic acid to add to lower into the 50-90 range?

And as for PH with it being at the high end of the optimal levels would you just leave that for now? As we won’t be swimming for at least another few weeks. We are in Connecticut.

Thanks!
 
Don't worry about your TA. Manage your pH to keep it in the 7's and your TA will come donw over time.

Have you added any stabilizer into the pool? If not, then add 30 PPM of stabilizer using the sock method, let it dissolve for a few days and retest.

6 lbs of dry stabilizer will give you 30 PPM.

www.troublefreepool.com

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Pas_pool said:
Okay, so I bought the TF Pro Salt test kit. We just did all of the tests for the first time. Here are our results (minus the CYA test)

PH: 8
TA: 150
CH: 150
Salt: 3,000

Free chlorine: 4
CC: 0

As for CYA. Any tips on that test? My wife and I couldn’t get the black dot obscured while looking down at it at waist high when adding the CYA mixture.

And as for the other results. Any recommendations on how much muriatic acid to add to lower into the 50-90 range?

And as for PH with it being at the high end of the optimal levels would you just leave that for now? As we won’t be swimming for at least another few weeks. We are in Connecticut.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
 

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ajw22 said:
Don't worry about your TA. Manage your pH to keep it in the 7's and your TA will come donw over time.

Have you added any stabilizer into the pool? If not, then add 30 PPM of stabilizer using the sock method, let it dissolve for a few days and retest.

6 lbs of dry stabilizer will give you 30 PPM.

www.troublefreepool.com

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Stabilizer was added by the PB. Not sure how much. It was added into the skimmer.
 
That might be 20. You need to do the test outdoors. Repeat in the morning and follow these instructions to a T before you add more.
www.troublefreepool.com

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Pas_pool said:
Stabilizer was added by the PB. Not sure how much. It was added into the skimmer.
Click to expand...
With a SWG your CYA should be around 60.

So even if your CYA is 20 you can add 30 PPM.

That is why I said to add 30 PPM and then see where it is.
 

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Pas_pool said:
What is OCLT?
Click to expand...
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. It is how we rule out having Algae, even if you can't see it.
You should do an OCLT now that you have your kit. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Since you have no idea what has been happening in your pool up to now, before we raise CYA, we should rule out algae.
 
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PoolStored said:
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. It is how we rule out having Algae, even if you can't see it.
You should do an OCLT now that you have your kit. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Since you have no idea what has been happening in your pool up to now, before we raise CYA, we should rule out algae.
Click to expand...
Gotcha. FYI it is a brand new pool. It was just filled a couple weeks ago and everything was turned on April 17 and the PB added chemicals to kick start it and added the initial amount of salt.
 
Got it. Since you don't know what your CYA and FC levels were over that time, it is best to confirm you DON'T have algae before you raise CYA.
If you have to SLAM, higher CYA levels become longer, more difficult and consume more liquid chlorine.
Let's get a real bead on your CYA level. Print out those instruction I linked and follow them.
When you have a chance, do the OCLT. Print those instruction I linked and follow them...doesn't have to be tonight, but some night soon.
Let's do those two before we raise CYA.

On the pH, add enough muriatic acid to lower pH to 7.6 from 8. Retest after 30 minutes with pump running, and report your results. Like to get a feel if your "8.0" is an 8.0 or something a bit higher.
 
PoolStored said:
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. It is how we rule out having Algae, even if you can't see it.
You should do an OCLT now that you have your kit. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Since you have no idea what has been happening in your pool up to now, before we raise CYA, we should rule out algae.
Click to expand...
I just read through that. To confirm. I need to switch off my SWG. Wait at least 30 min and then test FC and CC.
Then, leave SWG overnight?

And test again before sun comes up?

Then I can turn my SWG back on?
 
PoolStored said:
Got it. Since you don't know what your CYA and FC levels were over that time, it is best to confirm you DON'T have algae before you raise CYA.
If you have to SLAM, higher CYA levels become longer, more difficult and consume more liquid chlorine.
Let's get a real bead on your CYA level. Print out those instruction I linked and follow them.
When you have a chance, do the OCLT. Print those instruction I linked and follow them...doesn't have to be tonight, but some night soon.
Let's do those two before we raise CYA.

On the pH, add enough muriatic acid to lower pH to 7.6 from 8. Retest after 30 minutes with pump running, and report your results. Like to get a feel if your "8.0" is an 8.0 or something a bit higher.
Click to expand...
Which muriatic acid do you buy? I shop at Home Depot and have seen liquid and granular versions.
 
Pas_pool said:
I just read through that. To confirm. I need to switch off my SWG. Wait at least 30 min and then test FC and CC.
Then, leave SWG overnight?

And test again before sun comes up?

Then I can turn my SWG back on?
Click to expand...
Yes to all. Make sure pump is running, I'd leave pump on overnight at low speed.
Test AFTER sunset, BEFORE sunrise. Use weather on your phone to get sunset and sunrise time.
Print out the instructions and read them a couple time. Print outs really help. OCLT and SLAM.
 
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I get it at Ace hardware or paint stores. Look for 31.45% or 20 Degree Baume. Big box has the watered down stuff.

Transchem Muriatic Acid 1 gal Liquid Mfr# 1335100001 - Ace Hardware

Professional Strength 31.45% HCL (Muriatic Acid), excellent for pH reduction in swimming pools or to clean and etch masonry surfaces, excellent for pH reduction in all commercial and residential pools.Find the ACID MURIATIC GAL at Ace.
www.acehardware.com www.acehardware.com
 
PoolStored said:
I get it at Ace hardware or paint stores. Look for 31.45% or 20 Degree Baume. Big box has the watered down stuff.

Transchem Muriatic Acid 1 gal Liquid Mfr# 1335100001 - Ace Hardware

Professional Strength 31.45% HCL (Muriatic Acid), excellent for pH reduction in swimming pools or to clean and etch masonry surfaces, excellent for pH reduction in all commercial and residential pools.Find the ACID MURIATIC GAL at Ace.
www.acehardware.com www.acehardware.com
Click to expand...
Perfect. We have an ACE right down the street
 

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