New pool owner struggling...advice appreciated.

Mikey311

Well-known member
May 31, 2016
73
Powder Springs, GA
I just moved into a new house a few weeks ago with a pool that wasn't cared for very well IMO. They previous owner had to drain/re-fill it right before closing b/c the pool was such a mess.

Anyway - been doing my research and trying keep it balanced. One issue I have is the control panel doesnt work, the remote control (old) doesnt work well, so Im limping by just to keep the filter running but I am getting by until I can get it replaced (waiting on a quote atm).

Earlier this week my readings were:

CL: 3
PH: 7.5 (This PH has been high since I moved in... been using using Muriatic acid to try and keep within range)
FC: 2
CC: 0
CH: 250
TA: 40

(assuming I did all the tests right)

I've been having issues with Bad staining in the pool and think I've identified them to be iron stains so was attempting to follow the ascorbic acid treatment guide from this site (lowered PH, took CH to 0, etc). Like others have experienced, the stains mildly responded (some areas more that others like near the main drains) so I kept adding more. I'm now up to like 10lbs (whoops)... and am fearful to add more. (started yesterday afternoon and have the pool in recirculate still)

I added the anti-algae agent and have the sequestering agent on hand to apply. What should I do next? I have 4-6lbs more of the acid but resisted going all in with it.

When I brush, it does appear to be kicking around some dirt in the pool which brings me to my next issues.

When turning off the main drain and hooking a vac line (using a plate) to my skimmer... should I feel suction on my vac? I think I set it up right, but dont really feel any suction and vacuuming this dirt seems to be a futile effort.

I really need to re-focus but from the equipment to the stains to the vacuum.... overwhelmed right now. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
 
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I am not seeing a CYA reading listed. I see two CHs. But CH 3 doesn't make sense. Did you test for CYA?

Sorry - top value was intended to be Chlorine... it was 2-3 range before I let it drop to 0 to do the acid treatment. I must have forgotten to write down my CYA reading as it wasn't in my notes app.

I can measure it all tonight - but wasn't sure what readings would be relevant right now from the acid treatment. I didn't want to keep adding chemicals to the pool without seeking advice. Up until this week all I have done is run the SWG and added muriatic acid to lower the PH but it never seems to stay below 8.2 for very long.

I had a pool company come out to inspect my equipment and he told me I prob needed to add a gallon of muriatic acid every week OR two (cant recall which he said) to keep my PH down. I guess I'm struggling to understand what's the normal schedule for adding recommended chemicals, etc. to address balance issues. Running the SWG / pump on a regular basis is obvious but beyond that... it is OK to just add muriatic acid as necessary to keep the PH down? Are there side affects? Is the high PH part of my staining issue?

Again - I know I need to take a step back and get advice from those in the know with experience so here I am. thanks for any guidance.
 
If the pool was just refilled like you say, they probably didn't add any stabilizer by itself. Maybe they just threw in a few tablets for chlorine. Also, your TA seems curious. So, you did the test and you only added 1 drop of R009 to turn it barbie pink? If that is the case you need to get your TA up to at least 50 with baking soda. Your pH is a little low, so you could add borax, washing soda or soda ash to bring that up to at least 7.2.

10 pounds of AA is a lot. I've done a couple of stain treatments myself and the most I've ever used is 6 Lbs. Most people use a lot less. My advice would be to stop the AA additions and add your sequestrant. You'll probably need 2 quarts for 20k worth of water. My pool is the same size. That's what I went with. Don't let that water sit too much longer without any chlorine or you'll have to deal with an algae outbreak, especially if it's very hot. Get your sequestrant in there and then start adding liquid chlorine back. I would add around 4 ppm of liquid chlorine (100 oz of 10%) at a time. Because you put in so much AA, it will take A LOT of chlorine before your pool will start to hold it for any length of time. I would check your pool every 2 hours if possible (at least) because your FC will disappear fast as it's neutralizing the remaining AA in the pool. Just be prepared because you may go through 5 to 10 cases (20 gallons) before your chlorine level holds like normal. Test often and top it back up to 4ppm every time so your pool doesn't let algae get started.

You should also add some stabilizer to your water as your doing the above to get that CYA up to at least 30, otherwise your FC will burn off even faster.
 
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If the pool was just refilled like you say, they probably didn't add any stabilizer by itself. Maybe they just threw in a few tablets for chlorine. Also, your TA seems curious. So, you did the test and you only added 1 drop of R009 to turn it barbie pink? If that is the case you need to get your TA up to at least 50 with baking soda. Your pH is a little low, so you could add borax, washing soda or soda ash to bring that up to at least 7.2.

10 pounds of AA is a lot. I've done a couple of stain treatments myself and the most I've ever used is 6 Lbs. Most people use a lot less. My advice would be to stop the AA additions and add your sequestrant. You'll probably need 2 quarts for 20k worth of water. My pool is the same size. That's what I went with. Don't let that water sit too much longer without any chlorine or you'll have to deal with an algae outbreak, especially if it's very hot. Get your sequestrant in there and then start adding liquid chlorine back. I would add around 4 ppm of liquid chlorine (100 oz of 10%) at a time. Because you put in so much AA, it will take A LOT of chlorine before your pool will start to hold it for any length of time. I would check your pool every 2 hours if possible (at least) because your FC will disappear fast as it's neutralizing the remaining AA in the pool. Just be prepared because you may go through 5 to 10 cases (20 gallons) before your chlorine level holds like normal. Test often and top it back up to 4ppm every time so your pool doesn't let algae get started.

You should also add some stabilizer to your water as your doing the above to get that CYA up to at least 30, otherwise your FC will burn off even faster.
Thanks for the help.

Would running the pump/swg continuously not generate enough chlorine by itself? At hone depot now so can get some chlorine and stabilizer while I'm here.

Have sequestering agent and baking soda at home ready to go.
 
SWG will not produce chlorine fast enough for what you need. You need instant FC right away. A SWG would take yours hours if not almost all day to generate that amount, and before you can even blink, it will be neutralized by the AA, so liquid chlorine is the way to go.
 
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Should I add stabilizer immediately or wait until any specific target?
 
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How fast should I be adding chlorine back? Right now adding about a gallon every hour or so... is that rate ok? Added about 10 gallons back or so since yesterday afternoon and have pump running 24/7.

Also - didnt really see any answer in that post about AA treatment re when to add stabilizer. I have some but not sure if it would be wasted to use until I actually the the Cl levels holding.
 
didnt really see any answer in that post about AA treatment re when to add stabilizer.
"Once your chlorine starts to hold, it means that you have used up the ascorbic acid in the water and it will be easy to rebalance the pool back to your regular parameters. "
 
"Once your chlorine starts to hold, it means that you have used up the ascorbic acid in the water and it will be easy to rebalance the pool back to your regular parameters. "

I appreciate you pointing that out to me, but if you recall Im totally new to maintaining this pool (just a few weeks in) so I'm still really trying to determine what regular parameters are for my pool. Thanks again.
 
You can add the stabilizer right away if you want. It won't go anywhere, and you'll know that its been mixed well in your water when the FC starts holding. Use the sock method where you fill a knee high woman's sock, or even a men's athletic sock, with your granular stabilizer and hang it over the pool (I like to attach mine to my pool pole with the brush attached) in front of a return with the pump running. After it soaks for about an hour, you can reach in and squeeze the sock to get the milky stabilizer into the water. The more you squeeze it, the quicker it will go.
 
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You can add the stabilizer right away if you want. It won't go anywhere, and you'll know that its been mixed well in your water when the FC starts holding. Use the sock method where you fill a knee high woman's sock, or even a men's athletic sock, with your granular stabilizer and hang it over the pool (I like to attach mine to my pool pole with the brush attached) in front of a return with the pump running. After it soaks for about an hour, you can reach in and squeeze the sock to get the milky stabilizer into the water. The more you squeeze it, the quicker it will go.
For visual reference to thatA2CABE9D-7207-4857-AB0F-429319DB66C9.jpeg
 

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