new pool owner, questions on pump pressure

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waynelewis

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Jun 8, 2016
24
Kentucky
We bought a house with an existing in ground pool, 36'x16'x6' at the deep end, so approximately 18k gallons. The pool cover did not cover the built-in stairs end, so it was full of leaves and tree debris, and when we uncovered it to open it, the water was almost black. As I said, we're new to this. I removed all plugs and turned everything on to waste to remove the antifreeze in the lines. The filter is a hayward DE filter, don't know the exact model or size of the filter elements yet, but I cleaned them all off, turned on the pump, and added ~8 solo cups of DE to the skimmer (mixed in 1 gallon of water). Add baking soda, shock, and ~1 gallon of algeacide after checking the levels with a strip test (of course, everything was way to low to read anything).

My question on the pump/filter - After cleaning the filter elements and putting everything back together and turning on the pump, the pressure gauge read approximately 18, and stayed there after adding the DE. Very slowly moved up to about 25 after about 3 hours (the gauge only goes to 30). The pool has a lot of tree stuff in it, even after using a net to remove everything I can see (can't see more than a few inches down right now). I did a backwash and added another 2.5-3 cups of DE, the pressure was back to 18. About 2-3 hours later, same thing. It was at 25 again this morning, so another backwash and more DE.

Is this typical? Not having any history on this pool, I don't know if 18 is good starting pressure. I'm hoping this rinse/repeat is normal as it's removing stuff from the water. I plan to check the levels this evening when I get home and add what is needed. My wife said it's looking clearer this morning.

Thanks
 
Do you have your own test kit? If not, that is the first thing you need.
Order a TF-100
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.
I also have the Speedstir. It makes testing much easier.

The starting(clean) pressure is based on the individual system. So 18 might be right. But your filter is plugging quickly which typically points to a chemistry problem.

What was the algaecide you added? Typically not a good idea as some contain copper or ammonia, and they do nothing for a pool with algae.
 
Welcome back.

The chemistry problem is that you're starting from a black lagoon. Not surprising that the filter is becoming very dirty quickly. You will find that as your water turns greener and then bluer, it will go longer before you need to backwash and recharge.
You need to follow the SLAM Process process to get that pool clear. Unfortunately those test strips aren't going to be much help. Test kit is step 1, I'd suggest the TF-100 with XL option. Then run a full set of tests with CYA being the first most important. From there you can decide on the next steps. Follow the FC/CYA Levels chart to know what level you need FC to be at.
Post your test results and we can advise further.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies and information. I do have the TF-100 now, and used it last night:
FC: 6.5
pH: 6.2
TA: 70
CH: 100 (or greater, hard to tell)
CYA: 100
CSI: -2.08
BOR: 0 as near as I can read

Water temp was ~65F

I'm continuing to backwash, add DE, and will probably need to add water today or tomorrow. I added approx 1.5 gallons of chlorine last night. Per pool math, I need to add about 33lbs of borax, so I'm going shopping this evening and that should get the pH up.

Waiting on my wife to run tests this morning and I'll post the new results from adding the chlorine last night. The water is looking much better, lots of leaves on the bottom I'm still trying to get out.
 
You might want to hold off on the borax. There is an article in pool school about that but I don't remember the details. I can't look it up for you right now.
 
waynelewis said:
Thanks everyone for the replies and information. I do have the TF-100 now, and used it last night:
FC: 6.5
pH: 6.2
TA: 70
CH: 100 (or greater, hard to tell)
CYA: 100
Click to expand...
You are going to need to do a water exchange, your CYA is too high (re-paging @mknauss )
Your PH is way low for a vinyl liner

waynelewis said:
I'm continuing to backwash, add DE, and will probably need to add water today or tomorrow. I added approx 1.5 gallons of chlorine last night. Per pool math, I need to add about 33lbs of borax, so I'm going shopping this evening and that should get the pH up.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't "waste" the borax yet, until you do a water exchange, no need to throw it away.

waynelewis said:
Waiting on my wife to run tests this morning and I'll post the new results from adding the chlorine last night. The water is looking much better, lots of leaves on the bottom I'm still trying to get out.
Click to expand...
Is the water clear?
 
You cannot measure a pH of 6.2. Please check those test results.

You need to do another CYA test with dilution to see how far over 100 your CYA . Follow Step 8 in CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test - Trouble Free Pool and see what your real CYA level is.

After that test post it and we can guide you on how much water you need to drain / exchange to lower your CYA.
 
The pH of 6.2 was from the digital meter from tftestkits.

I re-tested everything last night (in the interim I had added another 1 gallon of bleach, one 4lb box of borax, and continued cleaning leaves from the bottom).

So, as of 6pm last night:
Temp: 70.7F
pH: 6.8 (from the test kit this time)
FC: 11.5
CC: 1
TC: 12.5
CH: 100
TA: 100
CYA: 100

I'll need to read over the link from mknauss on doing the CYA test with dilution and see if it's really that high.

The water is much clearer now, but still somewhat cloudy - so I wouldn't call it "clear". It's blue, but you can't see clearly to the bottom yet. There were a ton of leaves in the pool, which I can only assume affect the chemistry as they rot in there. I've removed a lot, still have some to go, hoping to get the remainder this evening.

I will probably, as others have stated, need to do a partial water exchange. The algeacide I added on the first day, I think, is causing some foaming - I'll not do that again, but the water was almost black, I was concerned.

From the the time I pulled back the cover until now, I think it's looking 100% better.

I'll need to get more bleach tonight and do the SLAM process, after I get the rest of the leaves out. Maybe over the weekend I can get it crystal clear, although we're supposed to get a lot of rain, so might have to hold off.
 
waynelewis said:
pH: 6.8 (from the test kit this time)
...
CYA: 100

I'll need to read over the link from mknauss on doing the CYA test with dilution and see if it's really that high.
Click to expand...
  • The short version is dilute the pool water sample exactly 50/50 with tap water
    • (use a measuring cup)
      • :note: You can use tap water to dilute for the CYA test only (tap water does not contain CYA usually)
    • Do the CYA test again (following all directions)
      • multiple the result by 2 (if you can fill the view tube past the line for 80 before you can't see the dot)
      • If the diluted sample still obscures the dot at 100
      • then you'll have to keep diluting, but keep track, you'll get lots of help walking through it!
waynelewis said:
I'll need to get more bleach tonight and do the SLAM process, after I get the rest of the leaves out. Maybe over the weekend I can get it crystal clear, although we're supposed to get a lot of rain, so might have to hold off.
Click to expand...
You will not be able to start a SLAM Process, until your PH is 7.2 AND you know and have addressed the CYA level
 
Ok
pH of 6.8 is about as low as you can read on that test block, so it could be lower. I’d suggest you aerate by pointing the return eye up to “roll the water” at the surface. Chemical free and should do the job of increasing pH.

Drain for CYA reduction?

Great it’s bluer, but you still have a way to go. Take a pic each day of your brush in the deep end. It’ll help you see the difference each day. You’ll look back in a week and wonder why you used the word “ clear” above. Lol.

The algaecide was too little, way too late. It was the chlorine that helped. As for the foaming, did you add clench with the chloromax technology? That is known for making the water foam. Make sure the bleach has no additives or “technology “. I’d get at least a dozen bottles of the 6% bleach. Or try to find more concentrated if you can.
 

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I removed all of the leaves, ran the vacuum to waste (removed approximately 4-5" of water), refilled from the hose, and these are the test results as of 5/6 @ 4:30pm

FC: 21.5
CC: 1.0
pH: 7.2
TA: 70
CH: 125
CYA: 100 (definitely over 100)
BOR: 15
Temp: 72.8F
CSI: -1.10

So, readings are all good (I'm keeping chlorine up to try and remove staining from the vinyl, I'm hoping it's just algae staining from the all the leaves, lots of yellow/brown all over the sides and bottom with some bright white spots where the leaves were bunched up).

I tried running the kreepy krauly the previous owner left, but it barely moves, so will have to open another thread for that, and possibly another for the stained vinyl.

I need to get the CYA down. I'll have to do the dilution test tonight to see what the CYA reading is and go from there. Hoping to not have to drain 1/2 the pool for that!

The water is crystal clear, but looks ugly right now with the all of the staining. I'll try to post some pictures later.
 
I confirmed the stains (pretty much all of the liner and stairs below the water line) are iron - used a vitamin c tablet in several spots, immediately took the stains off. Now need to figure out how to treat the entire pool for it.
 
With a CYA over 100 and iron in the water, your going to need to exchange the water. No way around that unfortunately. The high FC is making the iron come out of the water.
You should read the Ascorbic Treatment to get the iron back in solution. Then replace the heavy iron / CYA water with cleaner water. Are you on a well?
This is one of those times we recommend taking a sample to to pool store so they can test for metals. Take two samples, pool water and tap water. Don’t buy any pool store products, except liquid chlorine if it’s a good price. I’d call around to see check the cost of trucking water in.
We can help more once you get the test results.

Checkout our Stains in Your Pool - Trouble Free Pool page for more info.
 
Last edited:
waynelewis said:
I confirmed the stains (pretty much all of the liner and stairs below the water line) are iron - used a vitamin c tablet in several spots, immediately took the stains off. Now need to figure out how to treat the entire pool for it.
Click to expand...
www.troublefreepool.com

Stains in Your Pool

The stained pool is beyond embarrassing. Our in-depth Guide to remove stains in your pool will help you to remove the stains and prevent them in the future.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Followed by:

Ascorbic Treatment to rid Pool of metal stains

Here are the directions to use Ascorbic acid to rid your pool of metal stains: Here is the ascorbic treatment: Take your chlorine down to 0 and PH down to 7.2, if there is chlorine in the water it won't hurt, it will just eat up the ascorbic acid, so you will need more to get rid of the...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
I'm on city water, not well water. I'll take a sample of my pool water and the tap water in for testing as soon as I can. I'm thinking with all of the rain we had in Jan/Feb, maybe runoff caused the high iron?

My biggest concern with draining 1/2-3/4 of the pool is the potential flooding of my back yard as well my neighbors. That's a lot of water. I'd need about 4000' of backwash hose to run it out to the ditch line near the road. How do others handle this?

I'll be ordering 5lbs of ascorbic acid and start that process after I get the water samples tested, but 99% sure it's iron, I was able to clean the steps and a good section of wall and some floor with a bottle of vitamin c.
 
waynelewis said:
My biggest concern with draining 1/2-3/4 of the pool is the potential flooding of my back yard as well my neighbors. That's a lot of water. I'd need about 4000' of backwash hose to run it out to the ditch line near the road. How do others handle this?
Click to expand...
Are you rural (septic system) or do you have sewer system? Can you drain into the cleanout?
You can drain in batches, which with your vinyl liner, you want to do anyways (unless you can drain & refill at the same time)
 

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