New Pool Owner - May need help

[1RtBstrd]

Just moved in January. House has a pool and I started trying to clear the swamp 2 weeks ago. Didn't know anything at all about pool chemistry, so I went to the local pool store for "Pool School," which ended up being a Bioguard rep pushing his brand of chems. Not knowing any better, I walked out $450 lighter than I walked in. Did not have a water sample, but was told to add 3 bags of Burnout73 and 2 bags of weekly shock that were left by the previous owner. This produced minimal results as the chlorine was back to 0 the next day. 2 days later I returned with a sample and was sent home to add lo-n-slo, stabilizer, non-chlorine shock (don't understand this, as my chlorine was at 0) an algecide and directions to bring a sample in 2 days.

I did as instructed, and returned home with more lo-n-slo and a box of Burnout73. This produced much better results than the previous attempts, but unfortunately for the pool store, I found this forum and changed direction. I immediately ordered a TF-100XL.

In order to not waste time, I kept adding bleach while anxiously waiting for the kit to arrive. When it came I found that my chlorine levels were a little high, but not unreasonable (I think). Did a couple tests last night and another full battery of tests when I got home from work today.

FC 15
CC 2
pH 7.2
TA 180
CH 350
CYA 20

My question is which readings are valid during the SLAM process, and how should I proceed from here? I have been vacuuming and brushing on a nightly basis for the past few nights and I can see a change each day, which is exciting. Definitely better than the results I was getting and much cheaper, too!

The following is a progression of how things have looked through the process. Sorry, didn't start taking pics until a few days in. Currently I can see about 18"-20" into the pool, but anything below 12" is pretty hazy.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!

You are off to a great start by getting a great test kit.

With the test results you show from your own kit I would recommend adding some CYA to get to 30 ppm. Easier to test for and helps shield the FC a bit better from the sun.

Then SLAM Process. You only need to test FC during the SLAM. Try starting at test/dose every couple hours and eventually you should be able to get to a few times per day.

Add a signature when you can - the data in it really helps us help you - see Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post

Take care.

 

[Richard320]

FC 15
CC 2
pH 7.2
TA 180
CH 350
CYA 20

My question is which readings are valid during the SLAM process, and how should I proceed from here?

The CC is probably MPS interference from the non-chlorine "shock." I'm not sure how long that sticks around. Worry about it if the pool is sparkling and it passes the overnight loss test yet the CC remains unchanged.

The pH is highly suspect with FC above 10. Usually it reads falsely high, which makes me wonder.... you aren't, by chance, using a 25 ml sample and multiplying by the 10 ml factor, are you? You wouldn't be the first.

The TA test may go from green>pink to blue>yellow (or some shade in between) with really high FC. The results are still valid. It's just when the color stops changing, whatever shade it ends up.

What to do: CYA to 30, FC to 12, and keep brushing, vacuuming, and filtering. If you can add bleach first thing in the morning, immediately after work, and again at bedtime, that's good. More frequent is better. Then it's just a matter of opening a can of

That's Pool Owner Patience.

 

[1RtBstrd]

So should I continue to keep the chlorine levels up while I add the CYA, or should chlorine additions be put on hold until CYA is higher? Last night I had 23 ppm FC, woke up to 18 ppm, and after work was down to 15 ppm FC.

 

[Richard320]

You're running the risk of bleaching the liner by overdoing the FC levels. Follow the [FC/CYA]chart[/FC/CYA] recommendations. Just go ahead and add the CYA. By the time it's dissolved, you'll be ready for more bleach. It's much like taking antibiotics. Doubling the dose won't necessarily speed up the cure.

 

[borjis]

And be sure to run the pump 24/7 (checking the pressure gauge on the filter often) until the SLAM is done.

I like the shape of your pool!

 

[1RtBstrd]

pH was taken by the K-1000 safety test kit. Used 5 drops of R14 like the instructions say.

Just re-tested in case I did something wrong. (Wouldn't be the first time...just ask my wife.)

 

[splashpad]

pH was taken by the K-1000 safety test kit. Used 5 drops of R14 like the instructions say.{pic}{pic}
Just re-tested in case I did something wrong. (Wouldn't be the first time...just ask my wife.)

What is your chlorine showing? if it's over 10, the PH test result is generally "invalid" (with a high result). But that looks very light.

 

[Mendy48]

Looks like 7.2

 

[borjis]

I could be wrong so don't take this as gospel, but if that ph reading is higher than it actually is
and it is registering that low, if this were my pool, I would let the chlorine drift to 9ppm (delay the slam)
and re-test so you know what it actually is.

Then raise the cya to 30 then raise the ph to 7.2 and resume the slam. At higher than 10 fc as pointed out, it will register high.
so it is very likely your ph is a bit dangerously low / highly acidic at the moment. Adding the cya will also lower the ph further a bit
and is the reason I recommend getting the ph straightened out AFTER the cya is 30. And let the water sample for the cya test
get to 70f / room temp. water at 60f i and others have found gives a false cya reading as lower than it actually is.

Ph is just so low and not good for the liner or the heater if you have one. If you had no heater and plaster I might be less concerned
if it were my pool.

 

[1RtBstrd]

Thanks for the replies. I took a sample for CYA and let it warm to temp while vacuuming and brushing. It now shows CYA at 25. Will bring that up to 30, let chlorine drift down to < 10 ppm, then correct pH as needed before resuming the SLAM.

 

[splashpad]

What is your chlorine showing? if it's over 10, the PH test result is generally "invalid" (they shower a higher then actual result). THAT looks very light.

Looks like 7.2

@Mendy, he has(had?) a FC of 15 (FC/10+ interferes with PH test, causing a false high reading)

I could be wrong so don't take this as gospel, but if that ph is reading higher than it actually is and it is registering that low, if this were my pool, I would let the chlorine drift to 9ppm (delay the slam) and re-test so you know what it actually is.

Agreed. High FC result, with very low PH reading is concerning.

Thanks for the replies. I took a sample for CYA and let it warm to temp while vacuuming and brushing. It now shows CYA at 25. Will bring that up to 30, let chlorine drift down to < 10 ppm, then correct pH as needed before resuming the SLAM.

Can you aerate the pool? (a "simple" elbow in the return will do) it needs to be pointed away from skimmer/filter inlet, and breaking the surface of the water

 

[1RtBstrd]

I pointed the return nozzles up last night, but it's not really breaking the surface. I had plans to do something similar this morning.

 

[1RtBstrd]

Just got back from the hardware store. Aerator is in place. This morning's readings were FC 11.5, pH 7.2, and CYA up to 35 after last night's addition of stabilizer.

 

[splashpad]

I pointed the return nozzles up last night, but it's not really breaking the surface. I had plans to do something similar this morning.

Excellent!!

- - - Updated - - -

Just got back from the hardware store. Aerator is in place {pic}

Looks great!! Is there anyway to angle it slightly so that it creates a current? (away from the inlet to the pump), so you still have good circulation?

This morning's readings were FC 11.5, pH 7.2, and CYA up to 35 after last night's addition of stabilizer.{pic}

The PH is not accurate with FC over 10, BUT it is LOW (because the PH reads falsely higher with elevated FC) CyA is perfect!
Nice job, you'll be a "pro" pool owner in no time!!!

 

[1RtBstrd]

Just turned it. What's the reason behind keeping it pointed away from the skimmer? I trust there's a valid reason, but I'm an natural born analyzer and am just curious.

 

[splashpad]

Just turned it. What's the reason behind keeping it pointed away from the skimmer? I trust there's a valid reason, but I'm an natural born analyzer and am just curious. {pic}

So you don't re-filter "clean" water =) It's about circulation
... That looks PERFECT!

 

[1RtBstrd]

FC is down to 9.5. pH is still reading 7.2 and I'd like to raise that in preparation for lowering TA in the future. Is there an issue with continuing the aeration for now and resuming the SLAM?

On a different note, I decided to determine the condition of my sand and disassembled my filter. Sand is coarse, brown, and looks like play sand, so guess I have a new project to look forward to on my next day off.

 

[splashpad]

FC is down to 9.5. pH is still reading 7.2 and I'd like to raise that in preparation for lowering TA in the future. Is there an issue with continuing the aeration for now and resuming the SLAM?

Excellent, You've got it Continue the SLAM Process!

On a different note, I decided to determine the condition of my sand and disassembled my filter. Sand is coarse, brown, and looks like play sand, so guess I have a new project to look forward to on my next day off.{pic}

Hmm, that is a little coarser then ours, but will do for the time being =)

 

[1RtBstrd]

Making progress. I can now just barely see the vacuum head on the shallow end of the pool, and can now see the transition line from deep end to shallow end.

First pic is 3 days ago. 2nd 2 are from today.