New Pool Owner - 2 Questions Regarding Chemicals/Testing

[Shotgunanybody]

Hey all!

I'm a new pool owner, just put up my above-ground pool, an intex 18 ftx52. I bought a Taylor 2006c test kit and a bottle of aquacheck test strips to try out and use as a secondary source of info. After my first round of testing both the results and a strip confirmed that my TA was 180 and pH was between 8-8.4. According to the "lowering TA" info page on the TFP's site one should not adjust the TA simply to meet a target number/value and yet both my pH and TA are high.
Q1: Should I add acid to lower the TA? Or, as I haven't added any chemicals to the pool yet, should I focus on getting the Free Chlorine and CYA up to value first, retest and then worry about adding the acid?
The other question I have is regarding the test kit. Under the instructions for testing the Free Chlorine it says if the water doesn't turn pink after adding the white powder one should keep adding the powder until it turns pink. Knowing that the pool should read almost zero for FC as I've never added any before I wasn't surprised to see that the water barely turned pink after adding the powder, it was almost translucent pink. However I kept adding a few more doses of the powder and the color stayed barely pink and didn't change.
Q2: Does the "keep adding the powder" part really just apply to when I've already added Free Chlorine or should I have kept adding the powder even if it required using a lot of it to make it turn more pink? I was hesitant to keep wasting the powder when I already know that Free Chlorine is so low its almost non-existent.
When I completed all the steps for testing the Free Chlorine the results showed that my levels were .6 which I'm already doubting is accurate because I shouldn't have any.

Thanks so much guys

 

[Texas Splash]

Q1: Should I add acid to lower the TA?

Yes & no. Ha. Focus on controlling the pH. That's most important. Each time you add acid to lower the pH the TA will slowly fall. But pH is more important right now.

Q2: Does the "keep adding the powder" part really just apply to when I've already added Free Chlorine or should I have kept adding the powder even if it required using a lot of it to make it turn more pink?

Grab a 10 ml sample size and add one generous scoop of powder. If it doesn't turn pink, no need to add more powder. You have no chlorine and you need to add some right away. Now if the sample does turn pink with the scoop pf powder, mix and add the R-0871 drops until it turns clear. Then divide the result in half. Example: 10 drops to clear equals an FC of 5.

 

[woodyp]

Just tap water has that much chlorine in it. And you just filled it.

 

[PoolStored]

When I completed all the steps for testing the Free Chlorine the results showed that my levels were .6 which I'm already doubting is accurate because I shouldn't have any.

This is not true.

1) Your FAS-DPD test is extremely accurate +/-.2 with 25ml sample and +/-.5 with 10ml sample. Trust it.
2) Fill water FC is highly dependent on the source. Mine is 1.5ppm.



Trust your kit...rock on!

 

[Shotgunanybody]

@Texas Splash
A1: Hmm ok. With the pH being so close to being within range will adding the 2 oz of acid (per the pool math calculator) really knock the TA down that significantly? I'm kind of shocked that the TA is so high to begin with.
A2: Well per the instruction sheet, if I'm interpreting it correctly, if I use 25ml of water I would multiple the amount of drops to go clear by .2 and if I use 10 ml then I multiple that value by .5 which is the same as dividing by 1/2. Is that essentially what your saying? lol

@PoolStored
Thanks for your insight and vote of confidence. If anything I'm doubting my interpretation regarding the strength of the pink color because it was so slight and even after adding the R-0871 drops the color change to clear was ever so slight I wasn't completely sure I was seeing it right. I was debating on bringing a sample to the pool store just to get a second opinion. I would not buy anything from them naturally as I want to try and do it the "TFP way"

 

[Shotgunanybody]

Apparently Austin uses Chloramine in the water for disinfection. Would that show up as chlorine in the test? Or are they totally different

 

[PoolStored]

pool store just to get a second opinion

Nope, Nope, Nopety Nope. The Taylor FAS-DPD drop test is the gold standard. TRUST IT. Ask me why I am PoolStored. Do you have a speed stir? Side story. My brother (who owned a pool for 30 years without alge) and I did back to back test. He did swirl method and I did speed stir. Our FC results (.5 increments) were 1.0 off. I was lower. Get a speed stir. Accurate and repeatable. TRUST YOUR TEST KIT.

A1: Hmm ok. With the pH being so close to being within range will adding the 2 oz of acid (per the pool math calculator) really knock the TA down that significantly? I'm kind of shocked that the TA is so high to begin with.
A2: Well per the instruction sheet, if I'm interpreting it correctly, if I use 25ml of water I would multiple the amount of drops to go clear by .2 and if I use 10 ml then I multiple that value by .5 which is the same as dividing by 1/2. Is that essentially what your saying? lol

A1: No it would not. It it high, likely because of your fill water. Test your fill water for TA. Do you have an autofill?

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

A2: Yes.

Apparently Austin uses Chloramine in the water for disinfection. Would that show up as chlorine in the test? Or are they totally different

They would show up as CC

 

[PoolStored]

I'm kind of shocked that the TA is so high to begin with.

Your input TA is 150-160...with your evaporation, and if you have autofill...makes sense...

https://www.austintexas.gov/sites/default/files/files/Water/WaterQualityReports/Updated%20QWQS%20Q4%202022.pdf

 

[Shotgunanybody]

@PoolStored
I dont have a speed stir, I've never heard of it to be honest. I'll invest in one if its worth it though. Thanks for the suggestion. I saw the reason why your "PoolStored" and I understand your obvious hatred towards pool stores.

I did check out the water quality report for cedar park as well as the austin one you posted and I noticed that the pH was high as well along with the alkalinity so it does make sense why my results came back high. To answer your question, no I don't have an autofill.
If I'm interpreting the lower alkalinity page you sent (which I had read over before) correctly I would need to add acid to lower the pH and then aerate to bring it back it up while the TA would then continuously drop with each addition of acid. Due to a slight uphill in my yard the return jet in my pool happens to be raised just slightly above the water so it is aerating the pool water already.

 

[Shotgunanybody]

https://www.cedarparktexas.gov/ArchiveCenter/ViewFile/Item/49

 

[PoolStored]

I would need to add acid to lower the pH and then aerate to bring it back it up while the TA would then continuously drop with each addition of acid.

Yep, you got it. The secret (*don't tell anyone*) is to create LOTS of LITTLE bubbles. I built this on top of a sump pump (pic). I can reduce TA 10 every 12 hours, reliably. CO2 outgasses between 7.0 and 7.2 at the highest rate. I drive pH to 7.0, aerate to 7.2-7.4, drop pH back to 7.0, rinse repeat. I now keep my TA and 60 and pH at 7.4. It sits at 7.4 all summer long. I only add acid at the beginning and end of the season. Granted my input TA is 80, but if you figure out a way to aerate, you can almost eliminate pH rise. With a TA around 60, most member here find they can let their pH sit at 7.8 and not have to add acid. pH in the 7s, is just fine.

Aerator.jpg

• PoolStored
• Sep 11, 2022
• 2

 

[Shotgunanybody]

Makes sense. With the return nozzle already creating bubbles and aerating I'll try that rinse and repeat. Sucks that it's a slow process but at least I have a direction. Thanks so much for your help

 

[PoolStored]

I dont have a speed stir

I would defend my speed stir to the death...but I'm "extra." Between the drop tests and speed stir, they are both accurate and repeatable.

All about making it trouble free!

Smart Stir Magnetic Stirring Device

tftestkits.net

 

[Shotgunanybody]

I'm assuming that's the speed stir you have? If so and you can vouch for it I'll give it a shot. If it makes the process easier I'm all for it

 

[PoolStored]

I'm assuming that's the speed stir you have? If so and you can vouch for it I'll give it a shot. If it makes the process easier I'm all for it

Yes, the one I have. Yeah, some random stranger on TFP giving advice. I've been through the washing machine on this pool BS. The PoolStore(d) took me for $1500. I regularly give to TFP (a 503c charity because they saved me $thousands). TFP and the guides and mods have spent years on clarifying pool chemistry and simplifying it. It is the ONLY place that was TRANSPARENT and HONEST with the WHY and HOW. I have a deep connection with the guides and mods here. I trust them. I CHOOSE to spend my social media time helping others here because TFP gave me hours and $$ back to me I can spend with my grandkids. I would give the same advice to you I would give my daughter.

Take my SWCG, Speedstir, Robot, or hairnets away from me...I'd fill in the pool and walk away.

Get the speed stir if you have the coin.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

I CHOOSE to spend my social media time helping others here because TFP gave me hours and $$ back to me

He's good with Avatars too!

 

[PoolStored]

He's good with Avatars too!

Love you Yippee...

 

[Texas Splash]

if I'm interpreting it correctly, if I use 25ml of water I would multiple the amount of drops to go clear by .2 and if I use 10 ml then I multiple that value by .5 which is the same as dividing by 1/2. Is that essentially what your saying?

The 25 ml sample is a Taylor instruction. It's very precise, almost too much precision which requires more R-0870 powder. The 10ml sample size provides all the accuracy needed and helps to save you some powder.

 

[Newdude]

+1. The 'point X' is fairly irrelevant so use 10ml samples and save 2.5x the supplies. No matter which way you use, the fractions are needed to get to the next whole number, but we really only care about the # before the decimal point. Whether it's a 8.5 or a 8.8 doesn't matter for a CYA in range for liquid chlorine. Conversely, a 2.2 or 2.5 both suck and need to be addressed ASAP.

+1 that a speed stir (or smart stir) is the best $45 you can spend on your pool. If you don't believe me, go try and take somebody's away. Protip: Be prepared to fight dirty.

HUGE +1 that we are all here just paying it forward because people helped us so well when *we* were new. The process is simple, it works like no other, and there's a small Army of folks willing to help you around the clock when the need arises.

I'll put any one of our pools up against any brochure you can find that spent thousands on lighting and getting a perfect shot. We just walked out back and snapped a shaky cell pic. How Clear is TFP Clear?

 

[Newdude]

Does the "keep adding the powder" part really just apply to when I've already added Free Chlorine or should I have kept adding the powder even if it required using a lot of it to make it turn more pink?

If you add too much powder, it won't dissolve. Look to have one or two grains swirling about and then repeat that interpretation of your 'heaping scoop' going further. If it isn't barbie pink it's because your FC is low, not because you didn't add enough powder.