New pool, new owner, always having issues...

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Use the Effect of Adding tab to calculate the hours and percentage to make 3 ppm of FC. If runtime is an issue, set SWG at 100% and calculate runtime.

When your existing cell is depleted, step up to a 40K cell.

Do you have a VS pump? If not, consider a future upgrade. Running a pump at 2X speed takes 7-8X more power.

 

[gregjobs]

Use the Effect of Adding tab to calculate the hours and percentage to make 3 ppm of FC. If runtime is an issue, set SWG at 100% and calculate runtime.

When your existing cell is depleted, step up to a 40K cell.

Do you have a VS pump? If not, consider a future upgrade. Running a pump at 2X speed takes 7-8X more power.

13 hours gets me at 3.0 @ 100%

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Where are those "Industry Standards" published?

Sorry. I wasn't referring to a professional standard. Form a consumer standpoint, a 25K system SHOULD be enough for a pool less than 25K gallons.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

13 hours gets me at 3.0 @ 100%

I would shoot for 4.0 and work down from there. You'll need your kit to fine tune things as you move forward.

Make sure you post full test results when kit arrives. We need to nail down your CYA level.

You should also do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test after you get FC level dialed in according to FC/CYA Levels.

 

[ajw22]

Do us a favor and please create your signature with a full description of your pool and equipment. This will help us in this discussion and others.

Do you have a VS pump? Model?

I'm also thinking about electrical costs running 24/7 100% for the entire summer to try and keep up is going to destroy my electrical bill and wear out the cell faster.

Electrical costs should not be an issue if you run a VS pump low speed 24/7. My pump runs 24/7 generating chlorine for 180 watts/hour.

A smaller cell has less chlorine generating capacity.

Generating 3PPM of chlorine per day has the same wear on the cell whether you generate it in 1 hour or 24 hours.

If I buy a bigger cell I can run it 12 hours @ 90% but also produce enough to make up for the loss.

What loss are you referring to?

 

[gregjobs]

Because of the full sun is it better for me to run the system overnight 8:00 p.m. to 8:00 a.m. that way the chlorine has a chance to build up without the sun?

 

[ajw22]

Because of the full sun is it better for me to run the system overnight 8:00 p.m. to 8:00 a.m. that way the chlorine has a chance to build up without the sun?

It does not make a difference as long as your FC does not drop below minimum required at the days low point.

 

[gregjobs]

Do us a favor and please create your signature with a full description of your pool and equipment. This will help us in this discussion and others.

Do you have a VS pump? Model?



Electrical costs should not be an issue if you run a VS pump low speed 24/7. My pump runs 24/7 generating chlorine for 180 watts/hour.

A smaller cell has less chlorine generating capacity.

Generating 3PPM of chlorine per day has the same wear on the cell whether you generate it in 1 hour or 24 hours.



What loss are you referring to?

From the sun.

 

[ajw22]

All Hayward pump, filter, heater, automation

Model names and numbers in the signature please.

It makes a difference in our advice when we know what equipment performance you have.

Your pump VS? Makes a big difference in this discussion.

 

[gregjobs]

Dolphin Quantum robot

22k vinyl IG heated SWG T9 Cell

Hayward maxflo vs 500, Hayward, W3C3030 SwimClear 325 filter, Hayward Heat Pro 21404T.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I can see your signature below the posts. If you are on a cell phone, hold it in landscape mode and you'll be able to see all signatures.

 

[gregjobs]

I can see your signature below the posts. If you are on a cell phone, hold it in landscape mode and you'll be able to see all signatures.

Lol yes I was in portrait mode. I see it now. Thank you.

 

[Newdude]

Ok so that's a huge question mark out of the way. If you need to run the pump longer for the SWG in the peak season, do so at the lowest RPM that activates the flow switch and it won't break the bank.

Mine works down to 700 RPMs / 35 W.

 

[gregjobs]

Ok so that's a huge question mark out of the way. If you need to run the pump longer for the SWG in the peak season, do so at the lowest RPM that activates the flow switch and it won't break the bank.

Mine works down to 700 RPMs / 35 W.


View attachment 575428

I can set it to 18% @21w but what does this do to the pool in terms of cleanliness and such? It's been running on 100% @ 900w all this time.

 

[ajw22]

22k vinyl IG heated SWG T9 Cell

Hayward maxflo vs 500, Hayward, W3C3030 SwimClear 325 filter, Hayward Heat Pro 21404T.

Your builder did you no favors in selling you marginal equipment for your pool/

The Hayward maxflo vs 500 is a 1.65 HP pump which will use more electricity for a given flow rate then a 2.7HP TriStar 950 pump.

Pick a low speed data point like 25 GPM on the charts below. The Tristar pump can do it running at 1,000 RPM if you had a 9 ft head. The Maxflow will need to run at about 1500 rpm using about 50% more electricity.

You would save money over the life of the pump even if you had to pay an upcharge to get the TriStar pump.

 

[gregjobs]

Cool so I'll get some bleach from Walmart, some CYA from Amazon, test the water once the kit comes and in the meantime I've upped the cell to 100% for 17 hours and reduced the pump speed to 75%.

 

[Fireman John]

Hey there, I'm new to the pool scene. Had a vinyl pool put in last summer. Immediately had mustard algae problems. Tried everything Leslie's suggested, never cleared up right. This year it's been open about 2 weeks and we're already starting to get slippery. I just ordered a Taylor kit and it won't be here for a few days.

That being said the test strips show no free chlorine and almost no CYA but everything else lines up perfect. What can I do until the test arrives to increase free chlorine and CYA immediately?

As I told another poster. I am not telling you what to do, only what I would do. First thing I would do is shock the pool. Based on pool math for mustard algae 5 ppm not going to get the job done. I enter the numbers for my pool with 0 CyA and 0 chlorine and it said shock at 12 for mustard algae, but regardless I personally would go way higher than 12. Run the numbers based on how many gallons of water to get the ppm of chlorine you want and add it to the pool while you are waiting on the test kit. I recently just shocked my pool at 30 ppm with CYa of 30. I would wait until night to start, Sun gonna eat up your chlorine with no or very little CYA. Brush and vacuum. I would not slam at this level. When your test kit arrives start testing. Hope this helps.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

The best course of action is to follow the advice previously given and wait for your test kit to arrive. If a slam is required, you'll need accurate test results to maintain FC levels.

 

[gregjobs]

I appreciate all the input and the time especially. I'll keep adding a gallon every day, brushing, to stay ahead of the possible bloom and daily loss. I'll use the strips just to see if FC ever shows up, and once the kit arrives do a proper test and remediate with new data.

 

[gregjobs]

Strip shows no free chlorine in the pool and the water is crystal clear so far.