Hello all, we had a pool finished in Feb '21 (covid purchase!). We are having major algae problems, I am working on getting the chemicals balanced, but I think the bigger contributing factor is that the pool wasn't set up properly. Can you tell me if this sounds normal? The skimmer/suction is so low that everything (leaves, dust, crepe myrtle flowers) just sits on the surface of the pool. The suction is so low that the basket floats up even when the pump is running. I also placed a drop of dye near the skimmer and none got sucked in. We have not changed the settings that they installed (skimmer valves are fully open). I have called the company to come look at it, but I'm concerned they are going to say everything is fine. I'd like to be armed with some info. The filter pressure is 18 psi and we have recently cleaned the cartridges in the filter. Is there anything you guys could tell me to let the pool company know that this is not ok? And would this be contributing to the algae growth? Thank you for your help!!! This site has been so incredibly helpful.
New Pool - lots of problems
- Thread starter AllyNewman
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,745
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
First step is to get your own test kit and manage the pool yourself. No pool maintenance company can properly manage pool water chemistry.
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF100 or the Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
First step is to get your own test kit and manage the pool yourself. No pool maintenance company can properly manage pool water chemistry.
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF100 or the Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
I have my skimmer and main floor drains connected so I close off 75% of my floor drains so 75% pressure is going to my skimmer and only 25% is pulling from my floor drain. Sounds like that isn’t your issue but just want to make sure. Also low pressure could be Due to a variable speed put on a low rpms setting, do u have a vs pump abc do u know what rpms it is set at at different times? Since ur filter seems to be clean last thing I can think of would be an air leak causing loss of suction, however with your psi of 18 I don’t think that would be the case, could your pump be extremely far away from your pool? Others probably have more input.
Another thing, have you cleaned your pump basket? Could it be full of debris? Maybe the skimmer line is clogged if the basket floated up something could have gone through. I’ve had frogs get through snd have had to clean them out of the pump basket.
Thank you for the insight. I'm not sure about the settings of the main drain - it is automated and the valve swings open/closed/partially open on it's own depending on what "mode" it is on (pool vs spa). I have no idea how to even change this as it was set up by the pool builder. There are two baskets back by the pool equipment, they both look pretty empty to me. Some debris, but not much at all. I'll have to look into the rpm setting. Pretty sure it is variable speed; maybe it is set too low, but this would also have been set up by the pool builder (possibly improperly?) and nothing that I have changed in the 5 months we have had the pool. Thanks so much!
definitely contact the pool builder tell them their settings seem to be causing low suction and no skimming action they need to come out to fix it.
Thank you, we have and hopefully they will be cooperative. One more question, if you know the answer - would poor suction/water flow cause algae to grow easier? Or is that a completely different problem I am having? I am prepared to SLAM the pool, but don't want to waste my time/money if the main root of the problem is the poor suction/water flow.
Ally,
Let's see some pics of your equipment pad from different angles and one of your overall pool.
18 psi, is pretty high if we assume your pump is running very slowly.
Algae is almost always a chemical problem not a mechanical problem.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Let's see some pics of your equipment pad from different angles and one of your overall pool.
18 psi, is pretty high if we assume your pump is running very slowly.
Algae is almost always a chemical problem not a mechanical problem.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Hi Jim, thanks for the response. Here are some pictures of the pool and my equipment. I hope it is clear/close enough. You may be right about algae being chemical, not mechanical. I am not that experience in pool maintenance. I was just thinking of a river vs a pond, one is stagnant and one has a lot of movement and the stagnant one grows algae much more easily. My pool is almost stagnant, there is some water flow but not much. I cleaned the filters again this morning and the PSI is down to 12.
Attachments
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,979
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Ally, from your pics you can see the automated valves (larger square ones) that operate pool versus spa flow, and your standard 3-way valves that can be adjusted manually. On your lines going back to the pool, it looks like the fountain and pool return valves are both wide open. Have you considered closing the fountain valve slightly to allow more water to go the pool returns? Just grab that fountain valve handle and move it a little clockwise. The image below should help.
As for the chemistry, there's no doubt you must have a TF-100 test kit (or Taylor K-2006C). Algae plays havoc in water circulation.
As for the chemistry, there's no doubt you must have a TF-100 test kit (or Taylor K-2006C). Algae plays havoc in water circulation.
Would it help to close off some of the main pool drain moving the valve to the right to about where the red rectangle I drew in? I had to do that to my sister in laws pool because they had their skimmer completely closed off and also experienced no flow. As soon as I did that it was fine. She had an automation system too but it wasn’t completely set up yet so I’m not completely sure how that comes into play. I don’t see how it could hurt trying worse case put the valve back to how it was.
Attachments
Is that a vacuum in the pool? What is it plugged into and do you keep it in the pool?
Thank you! That graphic is very helpful, I was a little confused as to which way to turn. I've turned the fountain down some but it didn't seem to make much of a difference on the skimmers unfortunately.Ally, from your pics you can see the automated valves (larger square ones) that operate pool versus spa flow, and your standard 3-way valves that can be adjusted manually. On your lines going back to the pool, it looks like the fountain and pool return valves are both wide open. Have you considered closing the fountain valve slightly to allow more water to go the pool returns? Just grab that fountain valve handle and move it a little clockwise. The image below should help.
As for the chemistry, there's no doubt you must have a TF-100 test kit (or Taylor K-2006C). Algae plays havoc in water circulation.
Liz, I think you are onto the issue! I turned that valve a few different ways and it did increase the flow on skimmer 1, but it seems to mess with the flow on the other one (skimmer 2). I tried messing with skimmer 2's valve but I couldn't get them both to draw better. I think the pool company will be able to address it when them come to take a look but it is good to know that is where the problem lies. It is frustrating because we haven't changed these valves at all since the pool was put in, so I wish they had set it up right in the first place! Yes that is a vacuum, it is plugged into a jet in the wall.
Is the vacuum left like that always or just while it’s cleaning. If you leave it in there I believe that will be stealing some suction power.
Yeah they should be able to help figure it out. Your pressure will be spread across all of the outlets so if u close one off it goes to another etc. they should know how to properly set them atleast you would think.
How do you sanitize your pool? I see a tablet feeder. Is that empty? Do you use liquid chlorine?
Ally,
If this were my pool, this is what I would do..
1. Turn your Skimmer #1 valve so that the handle of the valve points directly at Skimmer #2.. This will shut off your pool main drain..
2. Confirm that your pump still has water and your pressure is about the same as before moving the valve.
3. Go over to both of your skimmers and, one at a time, pull out the basket and reach into the bottom and see if you can feel a strong suction or not.
4. While at the skimmers, check to see if your weir doors are there and operating.. A weir door is what makes skimmers... Skim...
5. Check and see what speed your pump is running..
6. Report back with the results of your tests.
Where are your skimmers? I don't see them in your pics...
Thanks,
Jim R.
If this were my pool, this is what I would do..
1. Turn your Skimmer #1 valve so that the handle of the valve points directly at Skimmer #2.. This will shut off your pool main drain..
2. Confirm that your pump still has water and your pressure is about the same as before moving the valve.
3. Go over to both of your skimmers and, one at a time, pull out the basket and reach into the bottom and see if you can feel a strong suction or not.
4. While at the skimmers, check to see if your weir doors are there and operating.. A weir door is what makes skimmers... Skim...
5. Check and see what speed your pump is running..
6. Report back with the results of your tests.
Where are your skimmers? I don't see them in your pics...
Thanks,
Jim R.
I have been using shock to add CYA (it was low according to Leslies). But I am switching to liquid bleach now.
Thanks so much for these tips Jim. I just got my Taylor 2006 kit yesterday, so I was waiting til I got readings to reply. I tried the above suggestions and turning off the main drain didn't seem to change anything. The psi stayed the same and both skimmers still had suction (sorry you can't see them in the picture, they are on right side of the pool, you can just barely see skimmer #2 at the top). The pool company came out yesterday and a different project manager than our original one agreed that there is not as much suction as there should be. He messed with the valves a bit and adjusted the jets more toward the surface of the pool. He is coming back Monday to put smaller "eyeballs" on the jet heads and put new weir doors on (our project manager had put this new style on that have two flaps that open in the middle, kind of like an old timey saloon door, if that makes sense). Here are my readings from the test kit:
pH 7.2 (I added 2 lbs of baking soda after that and will retest tomorrow)
CYA either 40 or 50. Its tricky to tell when that black dot disappears, I could still see it at 50 but not at 40)
Calcium Hardness 460 (No idea how it got this high, I do live somewhere with "hard water" and I have used some CalHypo shock)
Free Chlorine: 2
Combined Chlorine: 1.5
Here's my understanding - because my CC is high and I've been having algae issues, I will need to SLAM. According to my CYA of 40 or 50, I need to maintain at 16 or 20 Free Chlorine.
Does this sound about right? Should I do anything about my high Calcium Hardness reading?