New pool install

[Superblue72]

Hello everyone this is my first post. I live in CT. My pool is being unstalled middle of October. I have learned so much in the last 3 months.
I'm getting a 16×32 vinyl lined in ground pool, stadium steps, and the deep end is only 6' so it's only 14k gallons. I'm also getting a cover pools automatic cover. There are 2 skimmers and 2 returns.
My original, or what the PB was going to use was
1hp single speed pump
Hayward 4820 DE filter
Cmp inline chlorinator
1.5" pipe everywhere
Propane heater
What I upgraded to
Tristar 900 vp 1.85hp I'm thinking the omni version
Hayward cartridge filter 425sf
Chlorinator I was going to leave the same, I'll bring this up below.
2" pipe
Flowvis flow meter
Hayward 140k btu low ambient heat pump
For automation I was thinking the omni pump version seems like all the control I will need.
Ok let's talk about chlorinator I'm worried about a salt water system especially since I'm getting a cover pools auto cover that uses steel cables instead of ropes. The cover is a pretty expensive upgrade and the thought of parts getting destroyed from salt makes me hesitant.. Also there is still quite a lot of maintenance with sw between chemicals and cleaning the cell etc.. the biggest draw for me to get it was the automation factor. But that said I am still leaning towards just a chlorine pool...

I would love to here any feedback

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! These articles should be quite helpful for you. As always, if you have a question about the guidance let us know.

Just Filled Your Pool with Water? Here's What To Do Next - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Closing an In Ground Pool

Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Care Basics

 

[kimkats]

Almost all pools end up being "Salt" pools. See chlorine has salt in it. It will add up over time. It is just a matter of time so might as well start off with it being a "salt" pool and letting the SWG doing the work of adding chlorine for you!

 

[Superblue72]

Almost all pools end up being "Salt" pools. See chlorine has salt in it. It will add up over time. It is just a matter of time so might as well start off with it being a "salt" pool and letting the SWG doing the work of adding chlorine for you!

I like the automation of the swg, I can have auto control, it will even adjust output when my auto cover is closed...but I can't get past the corrosion issue especially since I have the cover. (The auto cover cost was pretty substantial to the overall cost of the pool, like 30%)

 

[Texas Splash]

We have many members, like @CT-Steven from your area, who are SWG and pool cover owners. I'm sure he can elaborate on his experience.

 

[Superblue72]

We have many members, like @CT-Steven from your area, who are SWG and pool cover owners. I'm sure he can elaborate on his experience.

This will be my first inground pool but I had an above ground for 15+ years. (Its been about 8 years since my last pool) I ran a cartridge filter and an inline chlorinator, my water was always perfect. I hardly ever had to shock, maybe at opening and once a month if that. I never thought the chemicals were that bad to keep up. I hated vacuuming tho and that's why I'm getting a robot vac for my new pool. My biggest draw to swg was the automatic nature and being able to control it with my omnilogic. But in my opinion swg I not worth the risks of possible increased corrosion...I mean at the end if the day how hard is it to put some tabs in a chlorinator.....

 

[Newdude]

.but I can't get past the corrosion issue

It's hogwash. There are several definitions out there depending on the regulatory source but either both pools are considered freshwater, or both pools are considered the lowest threshold of the 27k ppm range of brackish water, behaving like fresh water.

4 sources cited here

.I mean at the end if the day how hard is it to put some tabs in a chlorinator.....

It's rather hard to exchange water often to keep the CYA level manageable from repeated tab use.

Or battle the swamp which ensues from under sanitizing. The higher the CYA, the more chlorine you need.

 

[Superblue72]

I get the cya issue but I live in the NE my pool season is maybe 5 months a year, then I have to winterize, this constant cycle of draining and refilling each fall and spring, plus rain will bring down the cya level....no?

 

[Newdude]

this constant cycle of draining and refilling each fall and spring, plus rain will bring down the cya level....no?

It will help slow the rise, yes, but it still gets out of hand as each tab will add 2.4 CYA.

 

[Superblue72]

It will help slow the rise, yes, but it still gets out of hand as each tab will add 2.4 CYA.

I don't understand all I used was tab chlorine in my inline feeder on my above ground pool for years, I don't think I ever even tested for cya and my water was always crystal clear....now I'm second guessing the inline chlorinator, after a bunch of reading here and other sources...

 

[Superblue72]

Ok I changed my mind on inline chlorinator my pool is 14k gallons any swg recommendations, I'm going to be using a hayward automation control unit

 

[Newdude]

I don't think I ever even tested for cya and my water was always crystal clear..

Clear means nothing. You can have an algae bloom kept on the verge of being visible. It's microscopic and all. But algae, while unsightly, isn't the problem. It's just the canary in the coal mine to tell you that if algae can breed, so can germs, bacteria, pathogens, viruses, etc.

If you never tested your CYA then you played blind darts for sanitizing. The more CYA you have the more Chlorine you need to sanitize at the same level. Any line on this chart is equivalent.



I, myself, had clear water for 6.5 years pre TFP. It was dumb luck and had zero to do with skill, or having the slightest clue what I was doing.

 

[Superblue72]

Clear means nothing. You can have an algae bloom kept on the verge of being visible. It's microscopic and all. But algae, while unsightly, isn't the problem. It's just the canary in the coal mine to tell you that if algae can breed, so can germs, bacteria, pathogens, viruses, etc.

If you never tested your CYA then you played blind darts for sanitizing. The more CYA you have the more Chlorine you need to sanitize at the same level. Any line on this chart is equivalent.

View attachment 532012

I, myself, had clear water for 6.5 years pre TFP. It was dumb luck and had zero to do with skill, or having the slightest clue what I was doing.

Ya know I was probably just lucky I had the pool for about 15 years, at year 8 I had to change the liner, my pool season was only 3.5 months and every year im lowering it a foot for winter and refill in the spring, and rain water etc...I probably just got by....im glad I found this sight. The frustrating thing is why does my PB include these in thier installs, or at least why not talk or educate the customer....

 

[Newdude]

The frustrating thing is why does my PB include these in thier installs, or at least why not talk or educate the customer....

They build pools. They don't know jack about chemistry. The industry as a whole disregards science and instead focuses on sales.

 

[Superblue72]

So if I go with a Hayward Aquarite sgw would this work with the Tristar omni pump automation combo or do I need to upgrade to the omnilogic or Omni PL

 

[CT-Steven]

I think the main thing that comes to people's minds when they are first venturing into a "salt water" pool is the ocean (in our case Long Island Sound) or the inlets of the rivers that are feeding the sound (brackish) are the salt levels in these waters. The salt levels in a pool are extremely low compared to these places. An ideal pools salt level is typically between 2700 and 3400 PPM (parts per million). The ocean is about 35 parts per thousand. Fresh water typically is under 1000 PPM. The tear from your eyes is about 7000 to 9000 PPM. A saltwater pool is really not corrosive at all and in fact is much less harsh to your skin and eyes then a chlorinated pool.

The steel cables for your cover are most likely stainless steel and their corrosion rate will depend on the actual grade used. As they are a part of a commercial product, I would assume the environment they are being used in were taken into account when developed. If it really bothers, you, you can do what I do and that is after I preform a backwash, I hose the pool and all the parts down.

If I can answer any other questions that you can think of, please feel free to reach out

 

[Superblue72]

I think the main thing that comes to people's minds when they are first venturing into a "salt water" pool is the ocean (in our case Long Island Sound) or the inlets of the rivers that are feeding the sound (brackish) are the salt levels in these waters. The salt levels in a pool are extremely low compared to these places. An ideal pools salt level is typically between 2700 and 3400 PPM (parts per million). The ocean is about 35 parts per thousand. Fresh water typically is under 1000 PPM. The tear from your eyes is about 7000 to 9000 PPM. A saltwater pool is really not corrosive at all and in fact is much less harsh to your skin and eyes then a chlorinated pool.

The steel cables for your cover are most likely stainless steel and their corrosion rate will depend on the actual grade used. As they are a part of a commercial product, I would assume the environment they are being used in were taken into account when developed. If it really bothers, you, you can do what I do and that is after I preform a backwash, I hose the pool and all the parts down.

If I can answer any other questions that you can think of, please feel free to reach out

Thank you for the reply, I have done lots of research on this topic...I think I'm going to switch to swg. Since I'm basically getting all Hayward product with automation I'm going to get the Hayward Aquarite S3...my PB isn't all that experienced with automation so I'm trying to figure out which controller to get. I only have 1 body of water (my hottub is separate and controlled by its own wifi controller).
Here's what I want to control..
Vs pump Tristar 900
Pool light
Hayward heat pump
SWG

I was going with the omni hub pump combo, I see the SWG also has an omni combo as well. I'm wondering tho if I should just upgrade to the omni Pl or prologic...I like how they double as the electrical panel as well...

 

[CT-Steven]

In all honesty I am going to defer to others that are more Intune with automation as that is not my strong suite. I do believe however that the Aquarite is only a SWG controller, and you will need the OmniLogic to bring the other pieces of equipment into the equation?

There should be posts about OmniLogic on TFP as well as other brands.
I found this and if you scroll to the bottom there are other threads wtih OmniLogic listed.

Hayward heat pump and Omnilogic integration

Hi to all, I recently got a pool installed and I got the Hayward Omnilogic controller with a HP70AEE variable heat pump. My whole home is automated using Home Assistant and the purpose of buying the Omnilogic along with a variable heater was to be able to control my heating settings from Home...

www.troublefreepool.com

@Texas Splash anyone come to mind that has experience with this brand?

 

[Texas Splash]

anyone come to mind that has experience with this brand?

I don't recall if @Jimrahbe uses these products.

 

[Superblue72]

Can you guys look over my list of equipment and let me know your thoughts...
Hayward HP21404TC low ambient 140 btu
Filter
Hayward Swim Clear Cartridge Pool Filter, 425 sq ft, W3C4030
Pump
TRISTAR VS 900 HL32900VSP
Flowviz flow meter
2" pipe throughout.
AquaRite S3 Salt System 40,000 gallon
Hayward
SKU: AQRS340
OmniPL- 4-Relays, Salt Ready, With App
Hayward
SKU: HLPRO4SW
Edit: I decided to get the OmniPL which doubles as the brain for the swg...so I'll get the bundle with the salt cell