Congrats looks great! Do you mind posting some update pics after awhile? We’re doing Blue Surf as well, just curious how much the color changes after start up.
New Pool in Houston, TX - Completed August 2021
- Thread starter travelfeedsthesoul
- Start date
Water color is bit better today. I did my initial tests but the CYA was hard to register. The test calls for looking at the black dot at the bottom of the cylinder and keep dropping the mixture until I can't see it any longer. Well, I went thru the entire mixture but it was just clear the entire way up the cylinder and I can easily see the black dot. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Is the mixture supposed to stay clear?
I'm posting my test results here as a screenshot. All and any advice appreciated!
Thanks!
I'm posting my test results here as a screenshot. All and any advice appreciated!
Thanks!
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I sure will post pics as it continues to change to final color.
You have no CYA if you didn’t add it. So there is nothing in the fill water to ‘see’
normally we say to be sure of your baseline before adding, and creep up to the target, but for once we are absolutely sure it’s 0. Add to 30 per PoolMath
You have no CYA if you didn’t add it. So there is nothing in the fill water to ‘see’
normally we say to be sure of your baseline before adding, and creep up to the target, but for once we are absolutely sure it’s 0. Add to 30 per PoolMath
Thanks!
The PB filled my inline chlorinator with a few pucks and said it'll last about a week and then I can start my own process after the official startup is done next week.
Reading thru the many threads here about not using pucks because they increase CYA, I figured the pool would have CYA. Do pucks only increase CYA if using them over a long period of time?
Pucks add 1 or 2 ppm each and take 5 days to dissolve. Even if they were all in there now, you can’t read 20 or below. Add your own to 30 with the sock method.
*don’t worry it all makes sense so much better when you are reading about it AND doing it. It will finally click and you will level up on the spot
So I've done some testing and it seems so much easier now. You're right, when reading and actually practicing the tests, it really makes sense.
I was afraid it'll take too long but I feel like I'll easily manage the pool maintenance myself without a pool guy/gal.
Thanks all!
What will be neat is when you can just look at your water and know if the pH is low or high! I would test any ways just to know how much m.a. to add to it.
That sounds impossible for me right now, haha...but that would be neat indeed!
another funny is when you are looking out the window and do a double take because there is NO water to be seen 
Run out there to see the water is THAT clear and still so you cannot see it! Now that is TFP water!
Run out there to see the water is THAT clear and still so you cannot see it! Now that is TFP water!
LoLanother funny is when you are looking out the window and do a double take because there is NO water to be seen
New test results here. I had zero FC so added the recommended amount of Liquid Chlorine (10%) mixed with pool water and put it in the deep end. I don't have return jets (in-floor pop up heads) so was it correct to put the chlorine/water mixture into the deep end?
Also, I what about the other items like the low PH of 6.8, how do I increase that?
My CH is low too, but it's new plaster, I'm surprised it's not higher.
Finally, for increasing my CYA, I have a skimmer basket with a soft net around it...do I just place the CYA granulars in any old sock and put it in the skimmer basket, will it damage the net or basket?
Thanks for any help!
Also, I what about the other items like the low PH of 6.8, how do I increase that?
My CH is low too, but it's new plaster, I'm surprised it's not higher.
Finally, for increasing my CYA, I have a skimmer basket with a soft net around it...do I just place the CYA granulars in any old sock and put it in the skimmer basket, will it damage the net or basket?
Thanks for any help!
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Anywhere works but it’s heavier than water so always brush good wherever you add. Probably easier in the shallow end going forward. Also be aware of where you are brushing the possible chlorine puddle to as that area may need to be brushed to disperse the smaller puddle.
20 mule borax. $4 a 4 lb box in any laundry aisle. Put your TA and PH in pool math and it will guide you the rest of the way. Dump it in and brush away. You may need several tries as anything below 6.8 looks like 6.8. If your fill water was 5, it will still read low after adding. Once the pool has some time under it you will be battling high PH as the plaster cures. Maybe for months. It’s normal and just hit it with Muriatic Acid per pool math anytime it hits 8 PH.
Hang tight for a plaster pro.
It only had to soak and it’s acid so the skimmer basket isn’t the best for your equipment. Hang it in the pool on a stick (in any old sock) and let it soak for a day. Tomorrow it will squeeze out in minutes. Bonus points if you swim it around to disperse the cloud. Don’t stick your head in the cloud and open your eyes, but it’s otherwise safe to be in.
Thanks Dude!
My PH was on the high end before yesterday when the start-up guy came and he left saying he added 2 gallons on Muriatic Acid. You think this caused the sudden drop in PH? If so, I assume it'll creep back up like you said, so you think I can wait as opposed to adding Borax, or should I go ahead and add? Also, any particular brand of Borax I can get? I'm such a noob, I know. lol
As for the CYA, what area or place does the stick hold onto in the pool to avoid it from drifting to the side walls of the pool and having it touching that the entire time while I'm not out there? If you have specific instructions of best methods, please let me know.
Finally - How long do I wait until testing for Chlorine again after adding it?
Thanks!
Last edited:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,336
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If the MA was 31% it would have lowered your pH by 3.5.
Yup.
With a TA of 80 and new plaster just wait and it will rise back up in a few days.
I don't see a heater in your signature?
Dangle the CYA sock in front of a return so the water flow from the return pushes the sock out.
Low PH (particularly low) PH is the worst thing that can happen to your equipment, chemistry wise. Sure if an F-150 careens through the backyard……. Well. You know what I mean.
Thanks AJ!
The MA was 31.45% so you're right, that caused the PH drop. I will wait a few days to see what happens.
I have a Jandy 400K Btu heater but the heater manifold was bad and so it's leaking and not working. The PB has the part ordered but it's currently on back-order so they'll come tomorrow to bypass the heater for now until they can replace the manifold. I asked a while back if they can just replace my heater since it's brand new but they said even those were back-ordered.
As for hanging the sock, I have an A&A in-floor cleaning system and unfortunately no returns, just the pop-up heads (which are working great, of course it's brand new so we'll see for how long). Without returns, what can I do? I just saw a YouTube video and the guy hangs the sock in the skimmer, ties it to the skimmer cover and leaves it dangling there. Is this something I can do? It's a Venturi style skimmer but I assume it would work the same for this purpose, right?
20 mule borax in a small white cardboard box. Should be top shelf when you find it in the grocery store.
Weight the patio end of the pole / stick so the sock hangs out a foot or two. It just needs to soak. Doing it in front of a return helps disperse it, but it’s no harm to let it soak for a day without returns.
20-30 mins after mixing. Until you get the CYA up check a few times a day. The sun may eat all your FC in an hour or 3.
Also, MA is heavier than water too. Pretty much if you add it, brush it. Baking soda won’t do much if the time ever comes but just be in the good habit of brushing anything you add because most you don’t want sitting on the plaster. And be wary of where half the cloud goes like I said because *that* spot will collect some too.