New pool build Far North Dallas Suburb

[Jimrahbe]

I have the pump running all day. The pool guy recommended to run it at 2800 RPM for a few hours (1pm to 5 pm) and let it run at 1800 RPM for the rest of each day. So I have done that. However, I have noticed that the PSI (as measured at the filter) goes down to only 2.5 PSI when running at 1800 RPM, but it goes to 12.5 PSI when running at 2800 RPM. Is that normal?

The system seems to be completely free of air when it runs at 2800 RPM because viewing through the glass cover/window on the pump shows no bubbles whatsoever. But, when the pump goes to the lower RPM the clear window at the pump does show to have a lot of air. Is that normal?

tf,

Your VS pump is working perfectly....

Filter pressure is really the amount of effort it takes for your pump to push the water through your filter... If you think about it that way, it makes perfect sense that it takes less effort (2.5 PSI) to push a little water through your filter and a lot more effort (12.5 PSI) to push much more water through your filter...

I run my VS pump at 1200 rpm 90% of the time, when I do my filter pressure is also down around 2 lbs. and I get half dollar size air bubbles under the pump lid.. This is quite normal with VS pumps. The key, in my mind, is that the bubbles do not move through the system and out into the pool. Other than maybe right at start up, no air bubbles should be coming out of your pool returns.

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

 

[tenderfoot]

Thanks KimKats, Texas Splash and Jimrahbe!

 

[tenderfoot]

Hi, I have been battling with the chemistry all this time. I think I finally got it more or less (I know it's not perfect) where it needs to be...

Readings from two days straight were: FC=7, pH=7.4, TA=110, CH=210, CYA 40

I know the chlorine should be between 3 and 5 but I was completely losing all of it during the day everyday when I tried keeping it at 4. I think I figured out why: rain, sun, running the sheer descents, running the bubbler...

It has not rained over the past 3 days and it has been Sunny. That changed. I also did not run the sheer descents anymore and limited the bubbler's running time. I have also changed the pump from running 24x7 to just running 12 hours (from 6:30 PM to 6:30 AM) at 1800 RPM. I think all those compounded have allowed the water chemistry to stabilize. Any comments?

Thank you!

 

[kimkats]

Set it up where the sheers run about 15 mins a day to keep the water "fresh" in the lines.

With you being in TX I would boost your CYA to 60. See how your FC does with that. When the SWG gets going you will want it higher as well.

Kim

 

[tenderfoot]

Hi,

It is now past 30 days, so I have now added salt and activated the SWCG. I brought the salt level readings up to 3400 ppm, the CYA was at 60, and the FC was at 3.

The cell is configured to 60%, and it is wired to run when the "filter pump" runs, which is now from 7:10 pm to 5:30 AM (1800 RPM). I also now run the pump at a faster speed (3000 RPM) between 3:00 pm and 7:00 pm, but this is not considered to be "filter pump" setting so the SWCG does not come on during this 4 hour period.

Anyway, today I went to take some readings, and my pH was at 8.2, so I lowered it by adding muriatic acid and now the readings are:

​

Measurement	Reading
pH	7.6
FC	1.5
CYA	30
TA	95
CH	350
Salt	3400

​

However, if I understand it correctly, the Water Balance for SWG article, recommends that my levels should be as follows:

Measurement	Recommended Range for SWG
pH	7.2 - 7.8
FC	5 @ CYA=70
CYA	70
TA	60-80
CH	350-400
Salt	3000-3500 (Jandy)

So, I will add CYA to get the CYA up to 70. Pool math says I should add 1 gallon + 2 quarts. I am going to leave the TA alone for now because it decreases every time the kids get in the pool so I am thinking it will fall within range over the weekend.

Regarding the recommended FC though, since I am way below the recommended value, should I just add liquid chlorine to shoot it up to the recommended value quickly or do I crank up the SWCG to 100% and wait until the SWG increases the FC to 5? Can the SWG even get the FC up there on its own?

 

[kimkats]

Chlorine to get the FC up, SWG to maintain FC. You will have to watch and tweak you pump run settings to find what works best for your pool and area. It could take a couple of weeks to really dial it in. Keep good records so you can watch for trends. Me? I would test FC in the morning and late afternoon while you are learning what your levels do.

Kim

 

[bigsapper]

Incredible story and your perseverance has left what looks like a beautiful pool. Kudos.

I also live in the North Texas area. I just started getting quotes from PBs. I am interested in knowing who your original PB was if you care to share by private message.

 

[mknauss]

You can use this SWG Run Time Calculator to see what % setting on the SWCG with your pump run time is needed to get to 4 ppm FC loss per day. Start there and see if you hold FC.

Best to use Target Level for FC. Not minimum.

 

[tenderfoot]

Thanks all!

I am now starting to doubt the CYA readings because I am getting wildly different readings from each person that does it. Whenever I measure it I get a 50, pool store #1 gets 30, pool store #2 gets 60, and pool store #3 gets 80.

So which is it!?! Lol

Can someone recommend an accurate way to do this? I just don't want to go over 70/80...

 

[kimkats]

YOU! Trust ONLY your testing as you know it was done the correct way. CYA is the test they wrong the most for many reasons. Go with your testing! Did we talk about doing the test using a GLANCE when you look at the dot? Pour to line, GLANCE in. IF you see the dot pour to next line, GLANCE in. Keep going line to line until you can't see the dot at a GLANCE!

Kim