New Owner, Old VERY Neglected Pool

TurbineTester

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2019
158
Warner Robins, GA
It's now Monday morning on Labor Day and by the time I get to the pool today it will be about 72 hours since I put any chlorine in it. I didn't leave any pucks in the floater or the floater in the water, now did I leave the SWCG on. I'm hoping I didn't loose too much progress with the last 72 hours of neglect. 😬
 

frogabog

Gold Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 16, 2010
2,833
Portland, Oregon
The test the pool store did at the beginning of August showed zero copper, and neither I nor the LPG have added anything with copper. The plumbing in house is likely copper plumbing though. Could that have leached into the water?
Nope.

Copper plumbing is mostly very safe. The only leaching comes from the solder, and that's lead.
 

tabitha_599

Well-known member
Jun 18, 2019
53
Tennessee
You did a great job clearing this pool! It's been neat to watch. Good job. I hope you guys get to enjoy the fruit of your efforts some before you flip it and resell :)
 

mguzzy

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2015
793
OV, CA
Pool looks GREAT!...But...
What we really want to know.. is... will your wife swim in the pool yet!? That is the true litmus test :sneaky: ;) :party:

I'm actually fortunate enough to have four tiny helpers who love to swim and don't care that the pool is a little green. Wife, on the other hand, appreciates the hard work but won't get in until it's clear.
 
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TurbineTester

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2019
158
Warner Robins, GA
It's now Monday morning on Labor Day and by the time I get to the pool today it will be about 72 hours since I put any chlorine in it. I didn't leave any pucks in the floater or the floater in the water, now did I leave the SWCG on. I'm hoping I didn't loose too much progress with the last 72 hours of neglect. 😬
Well I really expected the worst in terms of a green pool that had lost 2 weeks worth of work, but I hoped for only a cloudy pool. The last thing I expected was a pool that was perfectly clear blue pool from end to end!

Other than a REALLY full skimmer, a Polaris that was completely tangled and shooting water out of the pool, and a bunch of piles of leaves on the bottom, I was REALLY happy to see the pool today. Backwashed the filter since it was up to 23 psi. Turned on the hose to refill what the Polaris had apparently been spraying out.

FC -2.5
CC-.5
CYA-30
pH-7.4
TA-80
Salt-2800ppm

I added 1 gallon of LC to get the FC up to 6 in pool math. I decided to do that because I wanted it to end up around 3ppm after I refilled from the hose and had kids play in it this afternoon, hopefully leaving enough in the water to do a meaningful OCLT. I'm so happy with this pool and I can't wait to go back after nap time.

I know I need to get ready to turn the SWCG back on in the next few days. What output % should I plan to put it on? My options are 0-100%?
 

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mguzzy

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2015
793
OV, CA
Well I really expected the worst in terms of a green pool that had lost 2 weeks worth of work, but I hoped for only a cloudy pool. The last thing I expected was a pool that was perfectly clear blue pool from end to end!
...

I know I need to get ready to turn the SWCG back on in the next few days. What output % should I plan to put it on? My options are 0-100%?
YEAH! its Clear! Will that get your wife to go down the slide!

There is a nice feature of the Pool Math App that will tell you the runtime for a given % based on your pools SWG output and pool specs.. its really cool. I would start there and tweak it as you go. I would turn the SWG on now, why wait?
 

TurbineTester

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2019
158
Warner Robins, GA
YEAH! its Clear! Will that get your wife to go down the slide!

There is a nice feature of the Pool Math App that will tell you the runtime for a given % based on your pools SWG output and pool specs.. its really cool. I would start there and tweak it as you go. I would turn the SWG on now, why wait?
I must be dumb, but I don't see that in the iOS version of the app. I do see an area where I can add my SWG output based on its model. But I don't see an Autopilot SC-48 In the list. I see a CPSC48 with an output of 1.28 lbs/day. Is that right? If I choose that I still don't see a way to determine runtime . Any suggestions?
 

TurbineTester

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2019
158
Warner Robins, GA
I did a quick Google search and found 1.56 lbs/day for an Autopilot SC-48... try that
Ok I have that plugged in now. But I don't think there is a way to get the runtime in the iOS app, maybe just the desktop version. I'll get another bag of salt and enough CYA to get up to 60-80 and turning on the SWG when we go back in a few hours.
 

TurbineTester

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2019
158
Warner Robins, GA
I
YEAH! its Clear! Will that get your wife to go down the slide!

There is a nice feature of the Pool Math App that will tell you the runtime for a given % based on your pools SWG output and pool specs.. its really cool. I would start there and tweak it as you go. I would turn the SWG on now, why wait?
I found the SWG output calculator. It's under the "effects of adding" feature.
 

TurbineTester

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2019
158
Warner Robins, GA
K so went back yesterday and played and the wife got in!!!! Even went off the diving board 😁

Now, several of things I need to deal with. First, I've got an error message on the pool pilot.
"WARNING! Low Amps, Cell?". I ran the self test and it shows 3000 ppm salt, 80 degree water temp, cell volt of 24 and 0.7 Amps. Troubleshooting sticker says may be an incoming voltage problem? If the voltage was 28-29 volts and low Amps it might be low salt or dead cell, of the voltage is low I'm supposed to check the incoming line voltage. I know I checked it at the booster pump which is on the same circuit and after the main pump and it was 240. I can check again though.

Second, the water slide is looking rough. I need to replacing the spray fittings and refinish the surface. I did a quick search here and on YouTube and didn't see many good suggestions. Does anyone have any resources for refi having a slide?

Lastly, I'm going to pressure wash the slide and pool deck and get some kind of new paint on the deck. Any suggestions there?
 

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DorsalSpine

Silver Supporter
Jul 8, 2013
483
Columbus, Ohio
Paint is a love/hate thing. Looks good new. Looks really bad if/when it peels. It's all in the prep. Do it right and you will probably get a good life out of the surface. Do it wrong and you will have a mess in a couple of years. I'd do a good cleaning of the concrete first and then decide if it needs paint.

Nice job on the pool bye the way. Good to see that it's wife approved.
 

Rollercoastr

Gold Supporter
May 18, 2016
863
West Bloomfield, MI
Second, the water slide is looking rough. I need to replacing the spray fittings and refinish the surface. I did a quick search here and on YouTube and didn't see many good suggestions. Does anyone have any resources for refi having a slide?
If it's fiberglass and gelcoat, you can restore it just like one would a boat. Start by wetsanding, then hit it with a wheel and compound material, then finally apply a protective layer of wax or polymer product.
 

TurbineTester

Well-known member
Aug 4, 2019
158
Warner Robins, GA
If it's fiberglass and gelcoat, you can restore it just like one would a boat. Start by wetsanding, then hit it with a wheel and compound material, then finally apply a protective layer of wax or polymer product.
I have zero experience with fiberglass or boats. What grits for wetsanding, what's a wheel and compound, and what wax or polymer would you recommend?
 

mguzzy

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2015
793
OV, CA
Should be lots of Youtube vids on doing gel coat.. I used to do it to my older fiberglass kayaks. You can paint it with a brush, but it comes out smoother if you spray it on.

As to the SWG cell...is this the first time you turned it on? I can't recall
 

Rollercoastr

Gold Supporter
May 18, 2016
863
West Bloomfield, MI
I have zero experience with fiberglass or boats. What grits for wetsanding, what's a wheel and compound, and what wax or polymer would you recommend?
I'd start with Extra Power Magic Erasers and a bucket. They're actually abrasive enough to get the top layers of dirt and oxidation off relatively quickly and prep the surface for sanding. 1200 grit wet sandpaper would be a good middle-ground.

You can cheat and use automotive instead of marine products - they're usually much cheaper. Meguiars and 3M offer lots of choices. You want "buffing" or "rubbing" compound. You can do it by hand, but I recommend using a machine and a foam or wool pad. (wheel) They look like right-angle drill. You might be able to rent one.

Follow it up with Nu-Finish. It'll work on the slide, and you can use what's left over on your cars.