Perfect and just so Im reading the chart correctly that would be a 6 for 30 CYA correct? Try to maintain 4-6 FC. So Every day I add to achieve a 6 FC. Or wait till I read a 4 to add? Sorry if these are dumb questions. haha
New owner AZ, first water change
- Thread starter jake556
- Start date
Perfect and just so Im reading the chart correctly that would be a 6 for 30 CYA correct? Try to maintain 4-6 FC. So Every day I add to achieve a 6 FC. Or wait till I read a 4 to add? Sorry if these are dumb questions. haha
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Correct. When you test your FC, raise the level back to 6 ppm.
During winter and early spring, in our area, the FC will drop by 0.5 to 1 ppm per day, give or take. Starting in March or so, your FC loss will increase. As summer approaches, depending on how much sun shines directly on your pool surface, you will want to increase the CYA level to 50 or 60 ppm to better protect the FC. And follow the chart based on that.
During winter and early spring, in our area, the FC will drop by 0.5 to 1 ppm per day, give or take. Starting in March or so, your FC loss will increase. As summer approaches, depending on how much sun shines directly on your pool surface, you will want to increase the CYA level to 50 or 60 ppm to better protect the FC. And follow the chart based on that.
So using the pool math calculator I came up with ~12,000 gallons for my pool, using the average length/wide depth. I just was wondering if I could get a peer check on approx gallons, I added an sketch photo of my pool. Any help is appreciated. The pool in the center of the "bowtie' is 5ft deep and both ends are 4ft deep. Any quick tips are appreciated thank you.
Attachments
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I come up with just under 14000 gallons. Use your 12000 gallons and see how the chemical additions match up.
So I chlorinated to bring my FC from 3 to 6 at the same time yesterday. According to the pool math (11,500 gallons) 44 oz of 10%. Read FC today and its at 4.5 FC. So like was mentioned in another post I made, I probably am under sizing my pool.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Add liquid chlorine to raise the FC to 6 ppm, circulate the pool for 30 minutes, and test FC.
What age is the liquid chlorine that you have?
What age is the liquid chlorine that you have?
Attachments
It took real close to 12 drops to turn clear but I think there was a hint of pink still very faint, 13 cleared it all the way, so this would equal 6-6.5 FC after dosing for 12,000 gallon, 4.5 to 6 FC. Took 23 oz of 10%.
Really close haha
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Just checked my TA and it is at 120 this about normal? Hasn’t changed since I changed my water.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,475
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
TA is what it is. There is no normal or abnormal.
What is the pH and TA of your fill water?
TA can be forced down by...
Lower Total Alkalinity
A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.
www.troublefreepool.com
TA - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
TA is what it is. There is no normal or abnormal.
What is the pH and TA of your fill water?
TA can be forced down by...
Lower Total Alkalinity
A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.
TA - Further Reading
7.3-7.4 PH, 120 TA for my fill water, awesome Ill check it out, I was just wondering if 120 TA was “too high” and I should be doing something about it is all.
High TA will cause your pH to rise quickly. Then you'll add acid, which will bring down both pH and TA.
If you want to accelerate the process, you can follow the instructions linked above. Some people need to manage it more actively, due to CSI. If you don't have CSI problems, then you can just let it ride - it will come down over time anyway as you add acid, no need to rush the process.
If you want to accelerate the process, you can follow the instructions linked above. Some people need to manage it more actively, due to CSI. If you don't have CSI problems, then you can just let it ride - it will come down over time anyway as you add acid, no need to rush the process.
I'm sitting good right now with all my levels getting into the swing of testing and adding chlorine daily, I was just curious what dictates when to raise my CYA from 30 to 60? Should I wait till spring/summer? Im using approx 1 FC per day currently.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I raise my CYA level back to 70 ppm (for my SWCG) in March. As you are using liquid chlorine, it will be when your FC use starts to rise. I suspect that will be late March early April.
My average loss this time of year has been 1 FC per day, If I needed to leave town for the weekend or a week, how many tabs should I float? Is there a formula to calculate with?
(I understand that tabs will increase my CYA)
(I understand that tabs will increase my CYA)
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
With lower water temperature, the tablets will not dissolve quickly. I would imagine even one will have a hard time dissolving in the week.
Best to raise your FC to mid SLAM level or so prior to leaving. As all things work slowly in low water temperatures, I doubt you will see a problem even if your FC falls below target for a day or two.
Best to raise your FC to mid SLAM level or so prior to leaving. As all things work slowly in low water temperatures, I doubt you will see a problem even if your FC falls below target for a day or two.
Very good info thank you!
Since my CYA is 30 and the chart says 12 for SLAM, is it as simple as FC of 12 should give me 9 days? 12-9=3 I understand there might be other variables as well.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
FC loss is a percentage. So at FC of 12 you will lose the FC faster. But again, low water temperature slows everything down.