New Northeastern Pa Build

You're doing just fine, Jim!!

Now, you're going to start getting a feel for your pool's needs. Much like when your kids were babies. I like how Kim put it - start watching for trends. Those trends will guide you.

**Hours between tests: Pay attention to how many hours you can safety go between tests without too much drop (ie, FC) or too much rise (ie, pH) .

**Weather: was it mostly sunny (potentially dropping FC quickly) or cloudy/overcast (FC holding longer than usual)? Was it raining steadily for a good while (raising the pH more than usual)?

As pooldv said, the FC is most important right now since you have almost no wiggle room with the FC target of 3. It's so important that I'll repeat what pooldv said - don't let the FC go below 2 (or close to since we don't have a CYA test result yet), or you risk getting algae. The 3.5 at least gives you a tiny bit more oops room for CYA 30/min FC of 2.

FC: test 2 hours after last test. Add bleach if needed. If it's holding at 3 to 3.5, then don't. Now using weather... Is it hot and sunny? Then check again in 2 hours. If cloudy, check in 3 hours.

CYA: you're doing great with the socks! I love your set up!! There are different opinions on when to test after adding CYA. I'd wait until tomorrow. See what the level is, then we'll decide whether to build up the level a bit more or keep the same depending on the diamond brite instructions. A higher CYA level will give you a higher FC minimum.

When do these target levels from diamond brite go up? Tomorrow or the next day?

Let me know if this is clear as mud!
 
Ok, I understand. The pool industry has been hung up on FC of 1-3 for decades, even after 40 years of science proving the chlorine/CYA relationship. Keeping it at 3 is a lot better than 0.

ok cool thanks man. I'll call them tomorrow to see when I get cut free.

- - - Updated - - -

Your pool is beautiful! I love the tile choice with the brick, the design, the Mickey heads (we are DVC members and have gone several times :)), the Super Blue - everything! Congratulations! Based on that last picture, maybe Super Blue is the way we will go too - great water color!

wAter color gets better everyday. We r DVC members. Home base is akl. We love it there always have. Our second favorite is wl. Can't wait to see the Reno of it when we go back.

My builder really didn't want me to get into the colored plasters cause of fade, variation and such. I'm happy with the choice. It has 1000 times more agitate in it than I thought it would.

Thanks forcje compliments!
Jim

- - - Updated - - -

You're doing just fine, Jim!!

Now, you're going to start getting a feel for your pool's needs. Much like when your kids were babies. I like how Kim put it - start watching for trends. Those trends will guide you.

**Hours between tests: Pay attention to how many hours you can safety go between tests without too much drop (ie, FC) or too much rise (ie, pH) .

**Weather: was it mostly sunny (potentially dropping FC quickly) or cloudy/overcast (FC holding longer than usual)? Was it raining steadily for a good while (raising the pH more than usual)?

As pooldv said, the FC is most important right now since you have almost no wiggle room with the FC target of 3. It's so important that I'll repeat what pooldv said - don't let the FC go below 2 (or close to since we don't have a CYA test result yet), or you risk getting algae. The 3.5 at least gives you a tiny bit more oops room for CYA 30/min FC of 2.

FC: test 2 hours after last test. Add bleach if needed. If it's holding at 3 to 3.5, then don't. Now using weather... Is it hot and sunny? Then check again in 2 hours. If cloudy, check in 3 hours.

CYA: you're doing great with the socks! I love your set up!! There are different opinions on when to test after adding CYA. I'd wait until tomorrow. See what the level is, then we'll decide whether to build up the level a bit more or keep the same depending on the diamond brite instructions. A higher CYA level will give you a higher FC minimum.

When do these target levels from diamond brite go up? Tomorrow or the next day?

Let me know if this is clear as mud!

all totally clear!

Ill check free chl in a bit again. It's very sunny and hot today. So quicker drop.

Diamond brite instruction to me ends today today so I don't know if they want me to hold those levels for days weeks or hours. Calling the field rep tomorrow. Hopefully they will cut me loose!
 
Lol

did a 2.5 hr check:

fl is bottoming out

ph was 7.5. Going to add 8 oz while brushing
fc was 1. Just added 51 oz of chlorine.

Going to brush now.

Am am I going to get algae. I'm kinda getting worried here.

Cya socks are like 90 percent gone.
 
Check the FC level now. Be sure to add if it's not 3 or above (even at 2.5). You may not need to check the pH again right now; that's your call.

When you check the FC, be sure to check the CC. Ask if you need help on that one.

I won't lie, going below 2 is not good. I would go ahead and move the FC up to 4. You're going to have to check even more often, otherwise. (I also texted and tried to call you....)
 
So at 5 pm I'm now at 4.5. The sun is starting to move off the pool. My pool get hammered with 18 hrs of sun. Especially 2 till 5 pm.

Im calling diamond brite tomorrow but I think I need to keep it way higher than what they want. I'm texting my builder now.
 

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Morning:

Temp of water 74
pH: 8.2 book!
FC: 3 yippie!
CC: .5 issue coming?
TC: 3.5
TA: 110 why is it climbing?
CH:275 why is it climbing?
CYA: NT socks are empty and removed. will test today later in day as to not waste agent.

Added 45 oz acid and 26 oz of CL while brushing.

To take ph to 7.2 and FC to 4.

UPDATE:

6:45 AM
pH: 7.4
FC: 4.5 Seems like the pool math amount for CL takes my pool to 4.5 vs 4 when lower. Happened yesterday too. I know I'm doing test right. That one is easy.
CC:0
TC:4.5

UPDATE:

I spoke with diamond bright they told me I have to maintain the recommended levels for 14 to 28 days I said that's kind of a big gap 14 days he said by day 14 I should be fine to do what I want to. I finish the conversation by saying is it OK if I take the chlorine level up to four because of the burning off so quick during the day he said as long as it's burning off that's fine.

Got to work all day but will try my best to stop at house by 12 noon to test pH and FC.

See questions after each test result above!

Thanks,
jim
 
pH: 8.2 book!
FC: 3 yippie!
CC: .5 issue coming? Nope. Very normal. If/when 1.0 or higher there are no worries
TC: 3.5
TA: 110 why is it climbing? Have you added any water? What is the TA of your fill water?
CH:275 why is it climbing?Normal for new plaster. Keep an eye on the CSI

6:45 AM
pH: 7.4
FC: 4.5 Seems like the pool math amount for CL takes my pool to 4.5 vs 4 when lower. Happened yesterday too. I know I'm doing test right. That one is easy.The bleach/chlorine might be stronger than stated. It could be REAL new, kept inside and out of heat, etc. If you PH is doing what it should then we know you have the correct gallons.
CC:0
TC:4.5

Kim:kim:
 
pH: 8.2 book!
FC: 3 yippie!
CC: .5 issue coming? Nope. Very normal. If/when 1.0 or higher there are no worries
TC: 3.5
TA: 110 why is it climbing? Have you added any water? What is the TA of your fill water?
CH:275 why is it climbing?Normal for new plaster. Keep an eye on the CSI

6:45 AM
pH: 7.4
FC: 4.5 Seems like the pool math amount for CL takes my pool to 4.5 vs 4 when lower. Happened yesterday too. I know I'm doing test right. That one is easy.The bleach/chlorine might be stronger than stated. It could be REAL new, kept inside and out of heat, etc. If you PH is doing what it should then we know you have the correct gallons.
CC:0
TC:4.5

Kim:kim:

ya I think my gallons is pretty close. I can lower the ph pretty easy and correct.

So will my ch keep going up? Am I going to get in trouble?

my fill water was ta 40. We rose it up with baking soda first night and second day. And a third time next day but nothing since. Haven't added water to pool.

Oh whats csi?

Jim
 
So will my ch keep going up? Am I going to get in trouble?
Your CH is now 275. It was 250 yesterday. The Diamond brite range at this point is 200-400. You're good.

my fill water was ta 40. We rose it up with baking soda first night and second day. And a third time next day but nothing since. Haven't added water to pool.
Your hose tap water TA was 30 on Thursday, the 13th. The TA for the combined truck water and your hose tap water was 40.

Info not related to your note, but just an FYI: So anytime you use your hose water to top off the pool, at the very most, it will dilute the TA. But it would take a long time of adding hose water for that to happen. Rain most likely would also dilute your TA (a ton of rain water).


Oh whats csi?

Calcium Saturation Index

from the definitions page in Pool School: CSI measures the calcium saturation in the water. When the saturation index is too negative the water will try to dissolve calcium out of pool surfaces. A low saturation index is a problem for pools with plaster/pebble/quartz/tile surfaces. When the saturation index is too positive the water will tend to deposit calcium on the pool surfaces. A high saturation index is a problem for any kind of pool.


notes from mknauss (TFP Guide on 6-7-17):

CSI is very important with a Gunite pool surface.
If too negative, it will leach out the calcium from your pool surface and degrade the gunite thus needing it to be replastered sooner than normal.
If too positive it can allow calcium to precipitate out and leave your pool surface rough and your pool water line tile white.


notes from Richard320 (TFP Expert on 6-7-17:

Don't obsess over the CSI unless you're always at the edges of acceptable.

Remember that pH rises over time, so CSI will change as pH rises. Even temperature plays a part. Trying to constantly tweak it will drive you crazy. Keep CSI between -.3 and + .3 and you'll be fine.


notes from me:
The acceptable range for CSI is:
-0.6 to +0.6
-0.3 to +0.3 is usually considered the 'sweet range'


Pool Math automatically calculates the CSI for you. In the app, make sure you use settings to 'tracking CSI'.


Jim

If you would like more info on CSI, you can search TFP by using the white search bar at the top of this page.
I may be out of reach some of today.
Suz
 
2:30 PM tests. Just got home for the day.

pH: 7.6 added acid
FC: 3.0 added cl
CC: 0
TA: 110
CH: 275
CYA: not showing up yet
CSI: .07 (based on 0 CYA)

I have worries:

1. Will TA keep crawling up? cause it's hard to get down
2. What if CH keeps going up also? that is another hard one to get down.
3. No CYA reading yet. Should I be worried? I put it in the pool Sat at about 11'ish AM. Totally gone as of this AM.

jim
 
2:30 PM tests. Just got home for the day.

pH: 7.6 added acid
FC: 3.0 added cl
CC: 0
TA: 110
CH: 275
CYA: not showing up yet
CSI: .07 (based on 0 CYA)

I have worries:

1. Will TA keep crawling up? cause it's hard to get down
2. What if CH keeps going up also? that is another hard one to get down.
3. No CYA reading yet. Should I be worried? I put it in the pool Sat at about 11'ish AM. Totally gone as of this AM.

jim
My CYA took about a week to show up and during that time every time I tested it was a little different.
wish I could be more help on the other stuff but hopefully an expert will come to help. My pool is behaving differently so I'm just watching all the water post closely
 
I would not worry about the CYA testing until Tues (tomorrow) afternoon.

CH-only way I know of to bring it down is drain/dilute. I am hoping it will not go up much more.

Use Pool Math and put your target CYA and see what your csi is with it. I am curious.

TA-once your plaster is cured we will work on finding your sweet spot for TA and PH. TA is the last thing we worry and work on. Keep an eye on it and push it down if it gets too high.

Kim:kim:
 
My CYA took about a week to show up and during that time every time I tested it was a little different.
wish I could be more help on the other stuff but hopefully an expert will come to help. My pool is behaving differently so I'm just watching all the water post closely

thanks man I heard it is wonky. lol this break in thing stinks! i'm such a black and white person with things like this. i hate ranges. lol

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I would not worry about the CYA testing until Tues (tomorrow) afternoon.

CH-only way I know of to bring it down is drain/dilute. I am hoping it will not go up much more.

Use Pool Math and put your target CYA and see what your csi is with it. I am curious.

TA-once your plaster is cured we will work on finding your sweet spot for TA and PH. TA is the last thing we worry and work on. Keep an eye on it and push it down if it gets too high.

Kim:kim:

kim,

my head is kinda spinning.

1.ok right now with my targets and a cya of 30 my csi is -0.17
2. does ch usually keep climbing with new pools? should i have maybe shot lower? but it needs to be so high to not scale. double edge sword kinda thing.
3. how do i bring my TA down. . . acid right? and also aeration wit the acid but on new plaster acid alone should bring it down.
 

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