S&C,With all due respect, why do you need test results from a specific kit? Do you own stock in those companies?
Okay, you make a valid point. The pool was just opened, I did expect chlorine levels might be low after the winter. The part I'm not understanding, is how this could be a problem, only when the filter doesn't run. Maybe there isn't an off-the-cuff answer to this. But I can't understand how algea doesn't re-bloom unless the filter is running. I did type up an explanation in my most recent post, but I'm not exactly sure where it went. Maybe I made a mistake in posting. I did consider this to be algae last year( per the advice of a local pool service company), and super chlorinated the pool, and a large algea killing treatment was added. I have a photo somewhere of the package, I'll look for it. I think it was 8lbs, and the initial recommended dose was 3lbs. We did the initial treatment, and then a couple of days later, did another, and then another. Followed by algaecide for another week. There was never any change. The dirt kept coming back. The additive was specific for algea, even recommended for mustard algea, and it wasn't something we could swim in or use the pool for the better part of two weeks. There was no change. It was towards the very end of the season, so we ended up winterizing and closing the pool. The company was even baffled by this.One of the great things about a relatively inexpensive quality test kit, that you keep near your own pool, is that you can test any time of the day or night and as often as you need, to verify (and treat) your water chemistry.
So let's assume your test results are accurate (and precise) ..... your test results confirm your FC is exactly 2.53ppm below the minimum TFP recommends for proper sanitation at a CYA of 60.
If your pool water has been at this low level of sanitation for some time then your dirt is probably algae. You will need to take more samples to work to confirm an OCLT and for spot testing during your slam to eradicate your algae bloom.
Thanks for the reply. I guess what I was trying to say was that while it's generally accepted that pool store water testing is probably about as reliable as color test strips and maybe sometimes even less so, I have access to equipment that a med device stakes their reputation and product on, and I do trust that more than a kit I can buy for home use. I felt as if I was getting slammed for not using the correct test method, and not getting any advice from the experts. I understand it's almost impossible to give advice for pools without a baseline of water conditions, I thought I posted them.Well, if you have a multi-million dollar lab setup at work, you should understand the chemistry involved, or at least realize you should listen to people who understand the chemistry. I work in a lab myself, and although we don't have a multi-million dollar ISO-certified setup, I know that certain test kits for home use can be accurate and repeatable enough to give reliable results for pool maintenance. Considering this website has been helping many people with good results, I'd say the test kits they recommend fall in that category. Plus, they understand the chemistry they're talking about well enough.
Now, for your specific problem, it sounds pretty much what I had a few weeks ago. Vacuum the pool, a day later after circulating through the filter, settled 'stuff' in the middle of the pool. Water balance was ok, but FC might have been a bit too low at times.
When the weather got better, I decided to do a deep clean on my filter, bring up the FC to recommended levels and kept them there. Brushed walls and floor, scrubbed in all little areas, vacuumed. 48 hours later, the debris didn't come back. My pool's been clear for two weeks now, just by keeping up the FC levels and brushing once in a while. Before that, I was in the same situation as you.
So yes, TFP methods work, and taking samples to work will get old really fast. Especially during the weekend. Having a reliable little test setup at home really helps, and you can always take a sample to work for a sanity check once in a while. Keep your FC up, brush everywhere and do a SLAM if the stuff doesn't clear in a few days.
Sounds like you have two pool stores that are capable of giving reliable results at least some of the times. Of course, you don't know if all employees are equally capable, or correctly calibrate before testing.Thanks for the reply. I guess what I was trying to say was that while it's generally accepted that pool store water testing is probably about as reliable as color test strips and maybe sometimes even less so, I have access to equipment that a med device stakes their reputation and product on, and I do trust that more than a kit I can buy for home use. I felt as if I was getting slammed for not using the correct test method, and not getting any advice from the experts. I understand it's almost impossible to give advice for pools without a baseline of water conditions, I thought I posted them.
Pool stores get a bad rep, and a lot of times it's deserved. I'm a newbie when it comes to pools, I've collected samples and had both local pool stores test them, and they have been pretty close. I think last year the biggest difference was 4ppm on the hardness. Which, I didn't consider to be grave. The lab at work came in between the two on almost every value. I only did this because I was curious, because of the horror stories I've heard of.
I have no doubt the members here understand the chemistry, I never meant to question that.
I'm sure TFP methods work, and I'm trying to learn as I go here. Bringing samples to work, yes, could get old. That's a valid point, and on a Sunday, if I needed to test it, it could be a pain to drive to work.
I did add shock to the pool, which should raise the FC level. I'll definitely make it a point to scrub all around. There's an Ocean State on my way to work, I'll be sure to grab another case or 2, in-case I end up having to SLAM the pool, I'll certainly need it. Hopefully it doesn't come to that.
When you were getting settled stuff in your pool, would is "poof" when you tried to collect it? Did you ever end up sampling it? Did it look similar to my photo's above when it was out of water?
Thank you. That actually makes a lot of sense. Having a test kit is a good convenience if and when there are problems with the pool that require frequent testing.Sounds like you have two pool stores that are capable of giving reliable results at least some of the times. Of course, you don't know if all employees are equally capable, or correctly calibrate before testing.
Furthermore, going to the pool store amounts to the same thing as taking samples to work. You still have to leave home.
I don't think people here will slam you for giving test results from your work's lab, especially if you mention the source of the testing (lab vs pool store). However, should you require to SLAM your pool, you'll be asked to test your pool multiple times per day, because FC can be consumed very rapidly if you have a serious problem (reproducing algae). It's impossible to keep up that test regimen if you can't do the testing yourself, which would mean you cannot (SLA)Maintain the shock level.
That is why everyone is adamant about first having a good test kit on hand before trying to assist you in more detail.
About the stuff in my pool: I did not collect samples, but it looked exactly like the spots you see at the bottom of your pool. When cleaning my filter, there were gray slimy chunks everywhere, which are dead algea. The one picture where you show the wet samples, that looks like algae with other debris.
I have an Intex AGP, so no leaking pipes to/from the pump and filter where soil could infiltrate. It could only be tree debris carried in by the wind, or algae. Cleaning my filter and maintaining proper FC levels cleared the problem, so 99% sure it was algae. It did not notice any 'poofing', but that may depend on the vacuum and your patience. I generally go reeeeeaallly slow.
I want to clarify, the issue started in about August, and the pool was closed mid/late September because once the heat spell was over, no one used it, so what's the point of having it open, it was just an added expense everyday. So, It's really been a three month battle.Its great that you have a multi million dollar testing lab to use. Good for you. But everyone else here has a simple $70 test kit....and clear sparkly pools. You've been fighting your pool for nearly a year. So you can keep doing it your way, or you can try the TFP way. What have you got to lose at this point? It would also be helpful if you would post your pool info, the way everyone else here has done. You never know, someone might have a better idea in seeing what your equipment is.
The TFP way. You are fighting algae. You will have to do a SLAM, which will involve a lot of testing. If you want to run to your test lab each time you need to test, thats fine, but you'll be doing a lot of road running. To complete your slam you have to do a OCLT. Testing at the end of the day, and first thing the next morning before sun is on the pool. You need to do frequent tests. All that being said, you dont have to do any of them. You can keep on doing what you're doing, and get the results you are getting. No one is twisting your arm here. All anyone here wants is for your pool to be perfectly beautiful.
Your pool looks great. I don't understand how that helps me though. If you want the spec sheets on the equipment I use at work, I can provide them (per your first response), but you haven't offered me and guidance as to how your pool looks the way it does. So your response of "Maybe to end something like this", well, I don't know what the first step to that even is.Maybe to end something like this?
This was my response a few post backbut you haven't offered me and guidance as to how your pool looks the way it does
You basically have 2 problems, well maybe 3: