New HTH tabs - no CYA
- Thread starter Marty D
- Start date
https://www.poolgeek.com/products/poolife-nst?variant=39330434641
70.2% Cal-hypo. They'll add 7 CH for every 10 FC. The Fc will go away. The CH will build up.
70.2% Cal-hypo. They'll add 7 CH for every 10 FC. The Fc will go away. The CH will build up.
I am looking for tabs that doesn’t have Stabilizer. Have you use these? I’m getting tired of using liquid chlorine. Because with 86,000 gallons of pool water I need a lot.
SWG or 2.............Pool School - Salt Water Chlorine Generators This will make the chlorine for you!
Let us know if you are interested and we can help you pick which one.
The tablets you are looking at will add CH over time. Even though you have a vinyl liner too much CH can cause scale and such on your liner and mess up your equipment
We ALL want FC only tablets but it has not happened yet Someone will get REAL rich when they find a way!!!
Kim
Let us know if you are interested and we can help you pick which one.
The tablets you are looking at will add CH over time. Even though you have a vinyl liner too much CH can cause scale and such on your liner and mess up your equipment
We ALL want FC only tablets but it has not happened yet
Someone will get REAL rich when they find a way!!!Kim
Poolife and HTH are completely different companies. You aren't going to find these at Walmart.
Anyway, those tabs are fine but way more expensive than liquid chlorine. For the sake of comparison let's say your pool loses 3 ppm of FC per day, a somewhat average amount.
To replace this you would need:
2.5 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine - Estimated cost: $6-$8 per day
3 lbs of cal-hypo tablets - Estimated cost: $13 per day
So your chlorine cost will nearly double. Meanwhile your CH will increase by 60 ppm/month. At the price of chlorine and the eventual price of dealing with CH (either careful CSI management or massive water changes) an SWG would probably pay for itself in a single season versus using the NST tabs.
Anyway, those tabs are fine but way more expensive than liquid chlorine. For the sake of comparison let's say your pool loses 3 ppm of FC per day, a somewhat average amount.
To replace this you would need:
2.5 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine - Estimated cost: $6-$8 per day
3 lbs of cal-hypo tablets - Estimated cost: $13 per day
So your chlorine cost will nearly double. Meanwhile your CH will increase by 60 ppm/month. At the price of chlorine and the eventual price of dealing with CH (either careful CSI management or massive water changes) an SWG would probably pay for itself in a single season versus using the NST tabs.
I was looking into SWG this summer and reading about SWG. I would need two and may or may not work. Price $2800. All was a go until pass Saturday when kids were here on vacation and left the central AC on at 68 when it was 98 out and by the 7 th day is burnt out. Cost $7500 because is R11 old system and need new handler & condensed. Its up in the attic. There goes upgrading pool for this year.
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2.5 gallons doesn’t do it with this pool. Need more then that. It’s easy 86,000 gallons and maybe 118,000. I can put 3 gallons in one day and tomorrow 4 or 5. Pool gets sun - full sun at 6 am till 6 pm.
Ok, then if you are putting an average of 4 gallons per day in then you will need 5 lbs of cal-hypo tablets per day to replenish the same amount of chlorine. So instead of $13/day it will cost about $21.50/day. Plus about 100 ppm CH added to the pool per month.
So we are talking $650 for the chlorine per month and also replacing tens of thousands of gallons per month to run these tablets.
cfherrman
TFP Guide
Stenner with 55 gal drum of 12.5% buried in the ground.
$200 pump
$150 (maybe) drum
$20 lines
$200 pump
$150 (maybe) drum
$20 lines
Quite simply the answer is a more concentrated form of chlorine. The best your usually going to be able to do is 12.5%. See if you can buy it in carboys somewhere local.
If not, your stuck to either using off the shelf bleach, or chlorinating liquid. May not be "quite" as cheap as Cal-Hypo can be... but your going to be adding a sick amount
of CH to your water.... you'll need to do a massive drain and refill at the end of each season. Not worth the small savings over bleach. Can be a real PITA to haul around
all of those jugs and dispose of them... but you really don't have a choice.
EVERYTHING other than bleach (liquid chlorine) WILL have something else in it that you do not to build up in your pool. The worst things are CYA (stabilizer)... once that
builds to a high level you need to drain and refill the pool. That will happen rather quickly. The other bad thing is calcium hardness. That may take a bit longer, but trust
that by the end of each season you'll be way higher than safe as far as the hardness of the water goes.
It's either bleach, or a SWG. If you can't afford to do the SWG then your going to be lugging gallons of chlorinating liquid. There really is no magic answer or shortcut here.
If not, your stuck to either using off the shelf bleach, or chlorinating liquid. May not be "quite" as cheap as Cal-Hypo can be... but your going to be adding a sick amount
of CH to your water.... you'll need to do a massive drain and refill at the end of each season. Not worth the small savings over bleach. Can be a real PITA to haul around
all of those jugs and dispose of them... but you really don't have a choice.
EVERYTHING other than bleach (liquid chlorine) WILL have something else in it that you do not to build up in your pool. The worst things are CYA (stabilizer)... once that
builds to a high level you need to drain and refill the pool. That will happen rather quickly. The other bad thing is calcium hardness. That may take a bit longer, but trust
that by the end of each season you'll be way higher than safe as far as the hardness of the water goes.
It's either bleach, or a SWG. If you can't afford to do the SWG then your going to be lugging gallons of chlorinating liquid. There really is no magic answer or shortcut here.
The CH I’m not adjusting because this liner is old and bleached out already. I’m still reading ok on CH but my CYA is getting high. Kids are gone and today I’m cleaning filters and vacuuming the pool to wast. I’m going to drop about 3 inch’s. About 3,000 gallons. Hope my CYA drops. Can I keep using $1 dollar chlorx and start using poolife tabs with no Stabilizer? Mixing them in pool will be ok? Like I said- I put 3 tabs in the submarine at deep end now but will put 3 tabs of poolife tabs in.
You need to clean the "submarine" really well and let it sit a few days in the pool empty before putting anything else in it. You DO NOT want to mix different forms of chlorine especially Trichlor and Cal-Hypo! In fact, I'd recommend just getting a new floater for the Cal-Hypo.
FYI - On the link that Richard provided there are some good warnings. One in particular is about only using it in a skimmer. You might want to read all the information carefully before proceeding.
Since you're set on using the Cal-Hypo, you might want to get a good reading on your CH, because a liner pool doesn't care about low CH, high CH can and will scale even vinyl surfaces if it gets high enough.
FYI - On the link that Richard provided there are some good warnings. One in particular is about only using it in a skimmer. You might want to read all the information carefully before proceeding.
Since you're set on using the Cal-Hypo, you might want to get a good reading on your CH, because a liner pool doesn't care about low CH, high CH can and will scale even vinyl surfaces if it gets high enough.
Get a new puck floater and use it for cal-hypo only. The only way you will know if you cleaned the old dispenser well enough is if it doesn't catch fire! Also cal-hypo tabs leave a residue so you will only be able to put cal-hypo in it from that point forward.
If you guys are using only liquid chlorine with no Stabilizer how or what are you using for stabilizer?
I buy granulated CYA when I need a good bit of it.
I have been known to use tabs when I need to bump it up a little. I hate tabs though because my pH is normally rock solid at 7.5 I never have to adjust it. But, if I use tabs more than a day or two, they lower my pH and TA enough that I have to add Baking Soda and Borax to raise it back up.
I have been known to use tabs when I need to bump it up a little. I hate tabs though because my pH is normally rock solid at 7.5 I never have to adjust it. But, if I use tabs more than a day or two, they lower my pH and TA enough that I have to add Baking Soda and Borax to raise it back up.
. Today I’m going to vacuum pool and dump water. My CYA is high 150 and FC is off the chart- very high. How many inches do I need to drop water ? I was going to drop 3 inches or 4. I’m thinking 1000 gallons pre inch. 3 or 4 thousands? 90,000 pool
Look what we have for you: Pool Math an app to help you figure out how much to anything to add or remove! Does all of the work for you!!
I bought a 4 pound tub of chlorox pool and spa CYA granuals at walmart for 14.87 IIRC just a week or two ago.
My stablilizer levels were near zero and I needed to get it up to 30-40 right quick.... I have never priced out or
used tri-chlor pucks and even still I don't think they would get me there "fast enough" so to speak.
The powder I bought will get my CYA up to target levels in a day or two. So I went that way.
If I could find a good deal on the pucks to where I'm paying a similar price for each ppm of free chlorine as compared
to liquid chlorine or cal-hypo... then I would use the pucks in a scenario where I needed to bring my CYA up a little
bit and it was already still over 20 ppm.
TL;DR - I buy stabilizer granules mostly because they work fast and I have a lot of CYA to make up in a short time.
If I were in a place where I already at 20-30ppm and wanted to jump up another 10ppm then I'd use the pucks
and let it come up slowly over time (given the price was in line)
My stablilizer levels were near zero and I needed to get it up to 30-40 right quick.... I have never priced out or
used tri-chlor pucks and even still I don't think they would get me there "fast enough" so to speak.
The powder I bought will get my CYA up to target levels in a day or two. So I went that way.
If I could find a good deal on the pucks to where I'm paying a similar price for each ppm of free chlorine as compared
to liquid chlorine or cal-hypo... then I would use the pucks in a scenario where I needed to bring my CYA up a little
bit and it was already still over 20 ppm.
TL;DR - I buy stabilizer granules mostly because they work fast and I have a lot of CYA to make up in a short time.
If I were in a place where I already at 20-30ppm and wanted to jump up another 10ppm then I'd use the pucks
and let it come up slowly over time (given the price was in line)
This would of never happened if I didn’t go to the pool store last month. She sold me conditioner- 2 - 4 lb bags. Like I dumpy I put it in pool not knowing it was Stabilizer. I did have hard water and thought it was going to soften the water My CYA was low because I use liquid Chlorx. Now my Stabilizer is 350. I dropped 4 in last night. Still I’m at 300. I’m so screwed. I’m going to drop 8 inch’s next week after kids leave. Water is still sparkling. Never going to store again
I’m still adding water to pool. Have about 1000 gallons more. The CYA was at 400. It’s reading 300 now. After 1000 gallons may be 250. My FC is off the scale and CH is at 4.
cfherrman
TFP Guide
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