New Homeowner - 18x36 "Dated" Gunite Pool - Looking for some direction!

[Maritime]

Hello,

First wanted to say thanks for this tremendous resource. I've been lurking (not registered) for a while in anticipation of closing on my home and have read quite a bit of information - still trying to digest it all! Now that my wife and I are finally into the house we were hoping to get some of the expert advice from you folks here on the TFP forum.

We opened the pool last weekend (late in the season because it was part of the deal with closing on the house) to the usual green, swamp-looking water. Pool company shocked the pool and off they went. Water turned to the current state and we've been trying to maintain since and adjust since. We have run the filter 24/7 for about 5 days now with shocking daily but have to admit that we are a bit lost - the water remains murky and has not cleared up one bit. I have been researching the TFP/BBB method on here and would like to subscribe to that but was hoping for some guidance. I am posting today's pool testing results from Namco as well as a couple of pictures of the pool. We did additionally buy a testing kit above/beyond the pH paper and are hoping this will be enough to get us through the season. I did see that there are preferred/recommended kits on here - will ours be enough to get us through til' the end of the season (see below picture)?

Last item to mention is the robot the pool owner left (Aquabot Turbo T) isn't working and is in the shop for repair.

As always, very appreciative of any help/guidance.

Thanks,
Maritime

 

[Maritime]

Some additional information I forgot to mention:

- Sand filter; according to prior homeowner, sand was changed a year ago
- Chlorine pool
- Not sure of how it was filled; we do have well water but no addition to the pool this year. Iron # above is alarming to me as I don't want to have to drain this late in the season

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
This forum does not put much stock in pool store tests.
If your iron was that high the pool surface would be stained. Is it? Are your fixtures in the home stained? Do you have a softener or iron removing system?
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[Maritime]

Welcome to the forum!
This forum does not put much stock in pool store tests.
If your iron was that high the pool surface would be stained. Is it? Are your fixtures in the home stained? Do you have a softener or iron removing system?
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

Great, thank you.

No staining on the pool deck and none in the sinks or toilets in our home. Not sure where the Iron came from or how it got that high. Could it have been something I added before coming here for advice? Is it worthwhile to use an iron sequester to pull it out or should I slam as advised and wait for it to go down.

Also, is the kit I purchased before able to accomplish what I need? I am reading over the link you suggested. Looks like many of the reviews for my kit actually tie back to the forum. Leaving a picture of it below.

Will add 5ppm of liquid chlorine tonight while the sun is down and run the pump.



Appreciate the help.
Ryan

 

[mknauss]

I would suspect a poor quality pool store test on the iron level. If no stains on fixtures I doubt the iron is relevant.

Your test kit is not sufficient to test FC, CC, and CYA. Take a look at the links I provided in my post above.

 

[Maritime]

I would suspect a poor quality pool store test on the iron level. If no stains on fixtures I doubt the iron is relevant.

Your test kit is not sufficient to test FC, CC, and CYA. Take a look at the links I provided in my post above.

Nightfall has arrived; added 5ppm of chlorine to the pool and have the filter running.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Can you please list any chemicals you have added to the pool? What are you using when you say you've been "shocking daily"?

I'm wondering if when the sand was changed (which by the way is rarely needed) that the correct amount of sand was added back? Just an odd thought....?

If you have a pool net I would run it across the pool bottom to be sure no solid debris is down there. Also brush the pool daily.

The test kit you have doesn't have all the tests we need. I prefer the TF-100 ($70) which while sounds expensive will actually save you a TON of greenbacks. I promise! www.tftesetkits.net

Maddie

 

[Maritime]

Can you please list any chemicals you have added to the pool? What are you using when you say you've been "shocking daily"?

I'm wondering if when the sand was changed (which by the way is rarely needed) that the correct amount of sand was added back? Just an odd thought....?

If you have a pool net I would run it across the pool bottom to be sure no solid debris is down there. Also brush the pool daily.

The test kit you have doesn't have all the tests we need. I prefer the TF-100 ($70) which while sounds expensive will actually save you a TON of greenbacks. I promise! www.tftesetkits.net

Maddie

Hello,

When I say shock, I mean powdered shock or liquid chlorine. I did add a clarifier before I researched this forum but have since stopped.

I don't have too much information regarding the changing of the sand as it was done before my owning of the home. My robot is currently in the shop and I'm hoping to pick it up this week to continue the vacuuming process.

I am ordering the test kit today and hoping it will be in before end of the week. Anything else I should be doing in the interim?

 

[Maritime]

Trying to set up my manual vacuum and it seems like the skimmer has little to no suction. When sticking my hand in the skimmer should the suction be noticeable?

Could this be contributing to water clarity issues?

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Nothing else other than liquid at this point....till we get your pool gin-clear. Then and only then should you *sometimes* use granular or puck products as long as you know what you adding, what results you will get, and why you're adding it.

Keep adding 5ppm of liquid chlorine each night till your kit arrives and you can do a proper SLAM process.

Yes, skimmer should have some "pull" to it. Any valves turned? Do you have a main drain also??

Maddie

 

[Maritime]

Nothing else other than liquid at this point....till we get your pool gin-clear. Then and only then should you *sometimes* use granular or puck products as long as you know what you adding, what results you will get, and why you're adding it.

Keep adding 5ppm of liquid chlorine each night till your kit arrives and you can do a proper SLAM process.

Yes, skimmer should have some "pull" to it. Any valves turned? Do you have a main drain also??

Maddie

I believe I do have a main drain although its tough to tell with the clarity of the pool being so poor.

I may cease adding chemicals until I can get the skimmer sorted out and working properly, but looking for opinions on this. Feel like I may be chasing my tail if equipment isn't operating properly. As for the valves, all of them are in the position at which the pool was opened and the skimmer worked previously. One of my skimmers does seem to be getting adequate suction.

 

[Maritime]

Small update; my three year old Aquabot Turbo T (came with the house that I bought along with the receipt) died on me and is going to cost $400 to replace. Think I'll just move onto a new robot next season with this season quickly coming to a close (New England).