New fiberglass pool build in OBX- Current stage Fence and Landscape.

Is there an internal gas cutoff for the heaters? My NG meter was set yesterday and service turned on today but I keep getting "IF" error when trying to turn on the spa heater. Ive walked the entire line run to verify the valves are turned on and the NG company has verified I have service and is active. The valve placed next to the heater is turned "on" as well.

When I try to turn it on you hear the fan blow, but nothing else happens then eventually it throws the IF error.

Thanks!
Make sure you purge the lines until it gets a good smell from them. They likely will give an error if it’s not purged well.
 
Bermuda Sod was laid down today in the back yard at least. Still a few things to do but this was the most dramatic change visually at least. They swear to me it will green up lol. The spots that are bare are the future paver walkways. The side with the pool equipment/generator is sort of a TBD after the pavers do down. Going to leave it the number 3 rock under the equipment and steps. But on the other side along the fence we are not sure yet, going to see where we land budget wise. Might just do rock on both sides and call it done for now. The two mounds on either side of the wood platform are for the palm beds. They also still have the gigantic mess that is the Hvac/sprinkler pump side that needs the retaining wall. I will relax when thats done and this doesn't have the risk of collapsing and taking the fence down with it. Which the company that put it up this far has gone MIA, a little surprising since I only gave them a 25% deposit. They are def on the losing side if they walk off and I need to get it finished by another company. Emailed and called three times last week and again today. They were also going to replace the black fence along the seawall so id really like that to get done as well.

So not 100% by any-means but at least no longer feels like a construction site.

But you can also see the Corgs are out inspecting their new yard with me. Hopefully it meets their approval. Toughest critics by far lol.

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I bet you were never so happy to see dormant winter grass. It's usually depressing, but not this time. Its one more step closer to normal. :ROFLMAO:
 
I bet you were never so happy to see dormant winter grass. It's usually depressing, but not this time. Its one more step closer to normal. :ROFLMAO:

lol yes. Normally a sign of winter starting. But its a huge step up from mud and sand.



That grass is going to help cut the dirt/mud down big time!! I hopes it does green up...............we shall see!

:( on the crew that has ghosted on the unfinished work............sigh.............

exactly, now the pool might stay clean when we have a windy day lol. Im not too upset on the fence. Id like it done. But with the amount of work they did and cost to finish id come out ahead. But I'm not sure the rules and how long I have to wait until I hire someone else and if he could eventually come back and demand the rest of his money.
 
SO finally the automation was hooked up. Ive been able to make schedules and "themes" via the app or on my computer. But trying to figure out how to program omni to control pump speeds when turning on features. Like is there a way to tell omni to ramp up the RPMS on the pump if I want to turn the deck jets on? Or do I have to ramp up the speed manually then turn the deck jets on?
 
OK so still learning the omni. Fundamentally its the same as the pentair automation I had in the old pool, But systematically its set up very different and a huge learning curve. Still haven't figured out the above. Right now when I kick on the deck jets I have to manually increase the pump RPM. Same with the spa, I have to individually turn on the pump/heater/blower. Its nice to be able to do it with my phone now VS walking to the equipment pad.

But now that our weather is warmer I went ahead and added salt. 280 pounds to be exact. The spa levels are super high, like 3600PPM and the pool hovers around 2700 PPM. So ive been operating in spill over mode so pool water mixes with the spa and dilutes it. But whenever the system is generating the "instant" read gets real low. Like goes down to 1100 PPM. Is this normal for Hayward cells to do?
 

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This is where im at. I have one more 40 pound bag of salt left. Should I add it to bring up the PPM? Cell for the spa earlier today was 3400+PPM, but once I turned up the generation from 3 to 5% it went way down (like 1500PPM or less instant read). Pool cell did the same (builder left it set at 30% I boosted it to 50%) its been holding steady around 2600-2700PPM on the instant read. But id like to get it around 3k PPM. FC with the TFP test kit shows 4 PPM but I took the floater out yesterday so im sure it still had plenty of chlorine from the tablets. CYA is only 30. So my chlorine is pretty high. But lots of rain in the forecast so im sure that will dilute us a lot.

I haven't tested for the rest yet, and admittedly have been relying on the Omni app to tell me salt levels. I prob should do my own salt test before adding anymore. Water is crystal clear.
 

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Never dose from the cell. It uses conductivity to determine salinity and it is affected by temperature. It is the least accurate test method.

+1 if the cell is happy, you're good.

FC with the TFP test kit shows 4 PPM but I took the floater out yesterday so im sure it still had plenty of chlorine from the tablets. CYA is only 30. So my chlorine is pretty high.
'High' is over SLAM........ 40% of your CYA...... 12 FC for 30 CYA. I would learn your new pool with much more of a safety net.
But lots of rain in the forecast so im sure that will dilute us a lot
Only by a proportionate amount. Rain will add up over months and months, but any given storm is unnoticeable. Take a 6 inch flood for example which would be incredibly rare. It can only dilute you by about 10% in your 60 inch average depth pool. If you have an overflow, some of it will leave without even mixing. But yeah. Rain in the short term means next to nothing. Over the course of the year it will be a 3/4 water exchange.
 
So something Def went way wrong or I messed up on a test. It took 49 drops to turn the water clear in the test tube. Am I mathing correcting that that means I have 24.5PPM of FC? My CC took 2 drops to go back to clear. Ive turned down the salt cell from 50 to 30%, but if its really that high should I consider doing a few drain down and fill ups to dilute it? I feel like im safe to drain down to the returns and fill back up a few times.
 
Turn the cell down more to close to 0 and the FC should drop within a few days. No reason to drain.

What is your CYA level?

Put your pool gallons in your signature.

Your pool covered?
 
10 ml water sample ? Yes. (1/2 FC per drop)
25 ml water sample ? No. (1/5 FC per drop)
10ML sample. So guess thats right. Theres some discrepancy on what Cell I have for the pool. The omni reads it as a 15K model or a 25K model depending on the day. Contract calls for and and PB swear a 25k cell went in.





Turn the cell down more to close to 0 and the FC should drop within a few days. No reason to drain.

What is your CYA level?

Put your pool gallons in your signature.

Your pool covered?
Turned the cell off going to leave it off over the weekend and test again on monday. CYA is still 30. Pool is not covered.
 
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Your FC should drop quickly so check FC daily.
 
Just checked it today. Took 54 drops. Cells have been off since Thursday. 10ML sample. But no more CC which is nice. CYA up to 40, which im not sure where it came from as I havent had tabs in the pool for two weeks.

However something thats going to throw the test off from today to Thursdays was one set of test kit instructions (online) says two scoops of powder and the included laminated card says just one. Today I did just one scoop in the sample.
 

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