New DIY Build in Central Texas (Wimberley)

[Crawdaddy]

I've decided to build my own pool using BYOP and will be posting pictures and updates as I get them. Attached are the designs and I'd love to know if anyone thinks I should reconsider anything in the designs before we go any further. It is a basic pool with spa and Badu Jet Turbo Pro SwimJet

I plan on posting questions and look forward to your feedback and advice through my journey.

First Question: the build is 45 mins away from my home and I was concerned about watering the gunite multiple times a day for 7 days, however, the BYOP guys said that I wouldn't need to water the gunite if we installed it in the winter/early spring due to the cooler temps. Does anyone agree/disagree?

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

The Shotcrete shell is also in need of hydration to help complete the curing process along with slowing that process down to increase the PSI after 28 days. As important is the hydration of the surface that it is being applied to just prior its application (earth) the surface of the Shotcrete is in need of hydration on that surface as well.
This job was shot in summer and most critical.
Are you planning on having umbrell selves on the reef step?
With the pool finish being set the same level as the existing patio know the thickness of the coping.
Drawing shows the spa spillway ending at the pool coping on both ends, you may get spa water/spray on the pool coping during run times so it may be to your advantage to have it a few inches shorter to lessen the amount of water evaporation on the coping.
What depth do you want on the reef step and type of furniture if any do plan on using?
Plans show 7’ from water to patio post , not required but I would ask for all 3 to be tied to the rebar cage with a copper wire.
Have a few more ideas but don’t know if I’m over stepping.

 

[Crawdaddy]

The Shotcrete shell is also in need of hydration to help complete the curing process along with slowing that process down to increase the PSI after 28 days. As important is the hydration of the surface that it is being applied to just prior its application (earth) the surface of the Shotcrete is in need of hydration on that surface as well.
This job was shot in summer and most critical.
Are you planning on having umbrell selves on the reef step?
With the pool finish being set the same level as the existing patio know the thickness of the coping.
Drawing shows the spa spillway ending at the pool coping on both ends, you may get spa water/spray on the pool coping during run times so it may be to your advantage to have it a few inches shorter to lessen the amount of water evaporation on the coping.
What depth do you want on the reef step and type of furniture if any do plan on using?
Plans show 7’ from water to patio post , not required but I would ask for all 3 to be tied to the rebar cage with a copper wire.
Have a few more ideas but don’t know if I’m over stepping.

I'm not planning any umbrellas.
Good suggestion on the spa spillway
9" depth on tanning ledge for lounge chairs
The 3 posts are already set on a plate set in concrete on the patio, however, we need to add the flagstone on the patio and decking once the pool decking concrete is poured. What is the reason for tying them to the rebar?
I appreciate the feedback and welcome anymore you may have!

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Requirements in my area is that any metal within 5’ of the water must have a copper wire attached to the steel cage. My electrician will do the tie in for any metal within 10’ ,cheap insurance.
6’6” on the sun shelf may not leave much distance to walk around if you are planning of using Ledge Lounges.
With a water depth of 9” on the sun shelf depending on the coping thickness you may have a drop of 15” to 16” from coping to floor. If any small children will be using the pool may want to consider a small step in the corners of the sun shelf.

 

[Crawdaddy]

Requirements in my area is that any metal within 5’ of the water must have a copper wire attached to the steel cage. My electrician will do the tie in for any metal within 10’ ,cheap insurance.
6’6” on the sun shelf may not leave much distance to walk around if you are planning of using Ledge Lounges.
With a water depth of 9” on the sun shelf depending on the coping thickness you may have a drop of 15” to 16” from coping to floor. If any small children will be using the pool may want to consider a small step in the corners of the sun shelf.

there are already 2 steps from the shelf to pool floor
good point on the shelf size...I will consider
thanks!

 

[kimkats]

I am in to help and support as needed. I do worry about you being so far from the build. Many, oh so many, times the pool owner is the one that has to notice and have them fix any things done wrong. Is there anyone near the house/pool that can run and check things for you?

 

[Crawdaddy]

I am in to help and support as needed. I do worry about you being so far from the build. Many, oh so many, times the pool owner is the one that has to notice and have them fix any things done wrong. Is there anyone near the house/pool that can run and check things for you?

It is my concern too, so what I am planning on doing is being there for the critical days (eg, layout, excavation, gunite, and tile/coping). Then I will pause the construction until the house is ready for move in. Once we move in, I will commence with equipment setup, plaster, and pool school.

I am trying to find some neighbors as well to keep an eye on things, but not sure how they would help unless they knew the specifics of the plan and I don't want to impose on them.

Am I missing anything? Would you recommend a different approach?

 

[kimkats]

Okay you have a solid plan! The only hiccup you might find is the trades might not tell you when they are coming out to do the work. See if someone can call you just in case some one shows up without letting you know they are on the way.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

I have had customers install a security camera that overlooks the construction site to keep track of who and when workers are on scene. All that was needed was power and a mounting point for the camera. Doing an O/B the subs work on your schedule plan and you are able to to make it work to your advantage. The only negative to stopping and starting the project is it seems not to pick back up as smoothly as planned.

 

[Crawdaddy]

1. Given I have a 9" depth on tanning ledge, I am thinking of removing the bubblers since they won't be very effective and I don't want the telescoping bubblers.
2. Any recommendations on pool covers...pros/cons? manual vs automatic?
3. We plan on using 1.5" - 2" Oklahoma flagstone for pool coping as well as the decking...anything I need to consider?

thoughts?

 

[kimkats]

The bubblers are really more of a party trick that don't get that much use due to the noise over time. I would NOT get the telescoping ones as you and I both know someone WILL kick them=OUCH!

Pool covers-If you wallet can take the hit of the automatic I would go for it. Do you have a lot of trees?

-Flagstone-make sure you can vet it first to make sure it is not flaky. Not all flagstone are the same. Some are very flaky so over time they flake away.

 

[Crawdaddy]

The bubblers are really more of a party trick that don't get that much use due to the noise over time. I would NOT get the telescoping ones as you and I both know someone WILL kick them=OUCH!

Pool overs-If you wallet can take the hit of the automatic I would go for it. Do you have a lot of trees?

-Flagstone-make sure you can vet it first to make sure it is not flaky. Not all flagstone are the same. Some are very flaky so over time they flake away.

Yes, We have some trees, but we have a hot tub in the corner of our pool, so I don't think we can do a cover.

Good points...thanks!

 

[Crawdaddy]

After several weeks iterating on the design, I have attached our final draft and would like to get any feedback. Particularly any feedback on something we need to re-consider/change before we finalize and send out for bids.

thanks!

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Just a few things I have questions on.
4 steps to get at 3’ in the shallow end.
Sun ledge will only fit chairs if you want to face the pool during use.
Spa light on the house side of the wall.
Step on the floor of the spa.
Return line on the sun ledge.
Over flow notched on house side of BB.
How thick is your coping going to be?
Equipment pad at 4’ wide minimum.

 

[HermanTX]

After several weeks iterating on the design, I have attached our final draft and would like to get any feedback. Particularly any feedback on something we need to re-consider/change before we finalize and send out for bids.

Very nice design.
I see that you have a standard puck dispenser chlorinator. Have you considered a SWCG? Now is the time to include that as it can be part of the package with the IntelliCenter Automation. It should be rated 2x your pool volume. So if 10k gals is your planned volume then the IC20 will work well.

 

[Crawdaddy]

Just a few things I have questions on.
4 steps to get at 3’ in the shallow end.
Sun ledge will only fit chairs if you want to face the pool during use.
Spa light on the house side of the wall.
Step on the floor of the spa.
Return line on the sun ledge.
Over flow notched on house side of BB.
How thick is your coping going to be?
Equipment pad at 4’ wide minimum.

• I assume you are saying that there are too many steps? The reason we added steps was b/c there is a 14.5" drop from coping to tanning ledge, so we wanted to shrink that in half to make it easier to get in/out of the pool. What would you suggest instead?
• we are ok with the sun ledge being small as we don't plan on using lounge chairs
• where should spa light be?
• where should return line go?
• where should over flow notch go?
• I believe coping is 14"
• I thought the same thing on the equipment pad...thanks!

 

[Crawdaddy]

Very nice design.
I see that you have a standard puck dispenser chlorinator. Have you considered a SWCG? Now is the time to include that as it can be part of the package with the IntelliCenter Automation. It should be rated 2x your pool volume. So if 10k gals is your planned volume then the IC20 will work well.

One of the main purposes for this pool is for exercising (swimming with the Fastlane). The Fastlane techs told us we would have to perform maintenance (replace underwater motor and hoses) every 2 yrs with salt water pools as opposed to every 6 years with chlorine pools. So that doesn't seem like a path we want to go, but I do appreciate the suggestion!

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Not that their are too many steps, just the height of each if they are going to be uniform.
Spa light on the wall closest to the house.
Sun ledge return line to remain on the same wall just to the middle of the ledge.
Over flow notch to the wall closest to the house.
Thickness of the coping? 3 1/2 - 4” ?

 

[Turbo1Ton]

The Fastlane techs told us we would have to perform maintenance (replace underwater motor and hoses) every 2 yrs with salt water pools

This sounds like improper water chemistry issues, as opposed to saltwater, as both types of pools are chlorine pools, and traditionally dosed chlorine pools eventually turn into a saltwater pool, since both liquid and tab chlorine leaves behind salts.

I would encourage you to investigate and understand both types before you make a decision. You can start here... Salt Water Chlorine Generators

In Austin TX in the summer you will be dosing with liquid chlorine, likely every day, maybe every other, if you are lucky. With a SWCG, the cell takes care of the chlorine dosing so you can work on other tasks, or enjoy the pool.

--Jeff

 

[Turbo1Ton]

I linked to the SWCG page in my previous post, but here is a better place to start your research on chlorinating methods... How to Chlorinate Your Pool

I strongly encourage you to have a basic understanding of how you are going to care for your pool, before you are filling it with water. You have a great start by beginning your construction thread here. I found this place right after I received the bid from my PB, because I was researching the Intellicenter automation that they quoted. I found a great thread on that, read it, determined I was getting good equipment, and didn't return here until the build was almost complete and I thought "I know nothing about taking care of this thing". So I'm saying, don't do as I did.

Good luck, and ask any questions. There's a slew of folks here who love to answer questions and give guidance. TFP exists so that you can spend as little time as necessary taking care of your pool, and more time enjoying it. I will be on my 4th swim season this year, and taking care of this thing has been a walk in the park. Literally couldn't be easier. But that is all because of the information I found from this wonderful group of folks.

I do want to apologize, I jumped in all negative Nancy like and was not very welcoming. The pool design looks great. A couple of comments I have:

Plumbing - since you are the builder, make sure you have a plumbing layout to give the plumber so that he knows exactly how you want things ran. I would highly suggest for the skimmers and main drain to have dedicated runs back to the equipment pad. And seeing as you have 4 returns, I would split those into 2 and 2 that way you can isolate half of them, should anything arise in the future such as a leak in a return pipe, and still keep the pool operational.

Depth - 3' is extremely shallow. My shallow end is 3.5' and I wish I had done 4'. 5' is also shallow. Mine is 5' in the deep end. I bump my backside every time I cannonball. With these depths, your pool will turn into a bathtub in June/July/August. I would strongly consider adding some sort of pool chiller. Search the forum for them. We have several folks who have glacier chillers and say that they work very well. I wish I had done one.

Skimmers are both shown on the house side. I don't see prevailing winds shown on the plan. Typically you want the skimmers on opposing sides, and in line with the prevailing wind direction. For example, I am in NE Oklahoma and my skimmers are on the north and southeast sides of my pool. They both collect leaves very well.

Having no decking on the far side of the pool looks good, but consider the lawn maintenance and that weed eating/edging around that coping will cause a lot of debris to get into the pool. May consider adding a 2'-3' concrete apron or pavers along the far side to add some distance to help prevent this.

I think your plan of construction is good. You don't want the pool equipment set at a house that you are not occupying, as that invites trouble. One forum member is building a pool and house at the same time, and his builder set the equipment and the equipment was stolen almost immediately. You are going to want to have the equipment, so make sure you have a good place to store it all such as a storage unit, until you need it.

--Jeff