My diagnostics say no chlorine is being produced but salt is at 3300ppm and system is on super chlorinate. This is a brand new system and check sell light comes on regularly but clear as soon as I press the diagnostics button. It's a clear cell and i'm not seeing any "bubbles" either which concurs with the diagnostics readings. Any ideas?
new Calvin Sani clear issue
- Thread starter sherrycalvinsalt
- Start date
Does the unit provide any kind of feedback on system status? Like diagnostic readings or no flow messages? Is there a flow switch that isn't working properly?
It's a brand new unit... i've restarted it many times and heard the "click" as the mfg suggested and they have advised that's all that is required.. i've now turned the unit off added 3 bags of shock and see chlorine generation numbers closer to what it says they should be when the unit is working. I still see cloudy water 24 hours later.. I think the bagged shock is working but I don't think the chlorinator is. I'm going to find a phone jack and bypass the flow and see if that changes things. There are 0 bubbles in the unit, just clear flow. The prior unit you could see the bubbles (the chlorine generation) and I believe this one works the same way = no bubbles = no generation of chlorine. I'm skeptical about the flow connector as it appears it's supposed to look like a phone jack and there is no bar on it (small plastic bendable bar you pressure together when inserting and it "locks in place"). There is no broken piece in the package butt the plug in doesn't have that bar so iit fits loosely in the jack. Regardless, after over 2 weeks of playing around with this thing the pool isn't clear and I've used more salt and shock than ever to not get the results of a clear pool...
Press the little button and note the readings. Then, move the switch to off for a minute and then move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings. Include the reading before you press the button.
Is the unit indicating Flow or No Flow?
Is the unit indicating Flow or No Flow?
I've restarted again this am as I had a 30 and 0 indicating no generation..but I've done this many times over the last 2 weeks.. It recalibrates, adjusts, gives the new readings, like it's producing something, but it doesn't hold and there are 0 bubbles in the cell. No red lights whatsoever for salt, flow etc. I've sent another email to the mfg help desk as well as photos of all the diagnostic indicators. With the three pkgs of shock/chlorine in the water I've now added there is chlorine but it dissipates of course unlike the perpetual salt chlorine generator which should continue and hold levels. The other unit I had never had any issues for the first 7 years. Add three bags of salt at opening and away it went. We're into 5 bags of salt, 2 stabilizers, 3 shock/chlorine bags, 2 weeks and...murky still greenish pool. It should be long ago clear...
Press the little button and note the readings. Then, move the switch to off for a minute and then move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings. Include the reading before you press the button.
Yes, I've done that many times over the last two weeks. It recalibrates, adjusts readings and then..nothing. It doesn't hold, it goes back to 0 generation within 24 hours.
What are the readings?
In any case, you need to SLAM using liquid chlorine.
What is the model number of the SWG?
In any case, you need to SLAM using liquid chlorine.
What is the model number of the SWG?
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Sani clear 20. After the 25th restart in 14 days Lol. Current readings are salt 3300ppm temp 75
24.4 3.21 74P -3200. 88-0 r 8.80
24.4 3.21 74P -3200. 88-0 r 8.80
At this precise moment there are bubbles, but it doesn't last, it keeps needing a re-start...
It's working. Try turning the percentage to 100% and check the readings periodically to make sure that the readings are still good.
If the instant salinity is good, the system is working properly.
At 100%, the readings for amps and instant salinity will go to zero for about 5 minutes every 3 hours as the system reverses polarity. Otherwise, the amps and instant salinity should be good.
The system is only making about 0.7 lbs of chlorine per day, which is not a lot. And, that's running 24/7 at 100%
You have an undersized SWG.
Right now, you need to SLAM using liquid chlorine to get ahead and then maybe the SWG will be able to keep.
If the instant salinity is good, the system is working properly.
At 100%, the readings for amps and instant salinity will go to zero for about 5 minutes every 3 hours as the system reverses polarity. Otherwise, the amps and instant salinity should be good.
The system is only making about 0.7 lbs of chlorine per day, which is not a lot. And, that's running 24/7 at 100%
You have an undersized SWG.
Right now, you need to SLAM using liquid chlorine to get ahead and then maybe the SWG will be able to keep.
At this point you need to just turn the SWG off and clear up your pool following the SLAM Process. No SWG will generate enough FC to clear up water as you described it. You should always be testing your levels and supplementing with bleach if the SWG is not generating enough FC.
I think that the system is similar to the Hayward Aquarite with a T-5 cell.
The system has a 180 minute cycle. The percentage determines how much time the cell runs.
For example, at 50%, the cell will run for 90 minutes and then be off for 90 minutes.
Definitely time for a SLAM.
The system has a 180 minute cycle. The percentage determines how much time the cell runs.
For example, at 50%, the cell will run for 90 minutes and then be off for 90 minutes.
Definitely time for a SLAM.
Thank you, I'll give those a try! It shouldn't be undersized, it's got "greater gallons" than my old one according to the specs and this pool is 2' narrower than the old one. My pool is approx 13000 gallons "ish" and this is supposed to do 26000-28500 gallons according to the specs and advertisements... I'll try more "slamming" instead of th oaths I'm beginning to utter under my breath that are not effective at all. Lol
The unit produces 330 grams of chlorine gas per day (11.64 ounces) when running 24/7 at 100%.
That's 6.7 ppm in a 13,000 gallon pool.
The minimum pump runtime will need to be about 12 hours per day at 100% just to maintain good chlorine levels.
And that's only once you get perfect water.
There's no way that the system can recover from a green or cloudy pool on its own.
You need a full SLAM to catch up and then the system should be able to keep up.
That's 6.7 ppm in a 13,000 gallon pool.
The minimum pump runtime will need to be about 12 hours per day at 100% just to maintain good chlorine levels.
And that's only once you get perfect water.
There's no way that the system can recover from a green or cloudy pool on its own.
You need a full SLAM to catch up and then the system should be able to keep up.
I've run the pump 24/7 with the exception of when i added the3 pkgs of burn out at night - left the pump off for about 8-10 hours to see if it would settle a little. Which it I'd. It's clearer now, but again the SWG had turned itself off again. Carvin said to turn the dial to 50% so perhaps that wasn't the best advice. It's at about 95 based on the forum advice. I've got another burn out pkg handy so I'm throwing that in now as well
Burnout causes cloudy water. You really need to follow the actual SLAM "process" using liquid chlorine.
You need a good test kit do do the SLAM process correctly.
www.troublefreepool.com
tftestkits.net
You need a good test kit do do the SLAM process correctly.
SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain
We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com
TF-100 Test Kit
In this entire thread has there been any mention of an actual test result? I can't find it.
