New Build - Equipment Plumbing

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Van G

Van G

Bronze Supporter
Mar 22, 2016
255
Toronto
Looking for input on how to plumb my equipment.

5d542ca964dfc068db4d7bdfb883ac08.jpg



Tristar VS900 Omni
Swim and Clear 425 Sqft Cartridge Filter
H Series 400K NG Heater
AquaRite LowSalt SWG

Pool is 18k FG pool with spa. All lines are 1 1/2” flex.

Some basic questions:

1. Do I need to convert the Skimmer auctions to 2” and then combine them into a 2-2-2 wye? Should the returns be 2” until after the valve?

2. What happens with the Spa Air line? The Spa jets have both water and air welded to them.

3. With the Omni system, what will valve positions be for the different modes: pool, spa, clean? Never owned a pool so I’m trying to understand the flow.

4. Where should I put unions? Pump only or all equipment?
 
Van,

I would plumb everything at the pad for 2"..

I would use unions for the pump. Make sure you use 'pump' unions, and not the unions you can buy at home stores. Your filter and SWCG should come with unions.

Assuming your spa spills over into the pool, there are three basic modes..

Pool mode... Water is sucked from the pool by the pump and then pushed through the filter and SWCG and back into the pool.
Spa Mode... Water is sucked from the Spa by the pump and then pushed through the filter and SWCG and back into the Spa.
Spillover Mode... Water is sucked from the pool by the pump and then pushed through the filter and SWCG and back into the Spa. The water will then spillover into the pool.

Do you not have a Main Drain?

Do you not want a Vacuum Line/Port?

With a SWCG there is no reason for the Check Valve

I don't believe in Sacrificial Anodes... but they seem to be a regional thing.. Either your area does them or they don't. Not sure anyone in Texas has them..

Do you have any water features?

Makes sure your salt cell is rated for at least a 40K pool...

If you do not have automation you will need a "Spa Make Up line" to keep the water in your Spa chlorinated.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Van,

I would plumb everything at the pad for 2"..

I would use unions for the pump. Make sure you use 'pump' unions, and not the unions you can buy at home stores. Your filter and SWCG should come with unions.

Assuming your spa spills over into the pool, there are three basic modes..

Pool mode... Water is sucked from the pool by the pump and then pushed through the filter and SWCG and back into the pool.
Spa Mode... Water is sucked from the Spa by the pump and then pushed through the filter and SWCG and back into the Spa.
Spillover Mode... Water is sucked from the pool by the pump and then pushed through the filter and SWCG and back into the Spa. The water will then spillover into the pool.

Do you not have a Main Drain?

Do you not want a Vacuum Line/Port?

With a SWCG there is no reason for the Check Valve

I don't believe in Sacrificial Anodes... but they seem to be a regional thing.. Either your area does them or they don't. Not sure anyone in Texas has them..

Do you have any water features?
Click to expand...

So the pool goes into spillover mode daily as part of the circ/chlorinate mode?

No main drain. Fibreglass pool.


We’re going to buy a robot cleaner and brush. Bad idea to forgo on the traditional vac?

I thought you wanted a check valve to prevent highly chlorinated water going back through heater?

Sac Anodes are sort religious in these parts.

No water features.
 
Van,

If you were using a 3" Tab Dispenser, then a check valve would be required, because the dispenser is still filled with "highly chlorinated and acidic" water, even when the pump is off. You definitely don't want it in your heater. A SWCG does not have highly chlorinated water even when it is working and when off it has nothing at all... when it is off, there is nothing left over.

If you have an automation system, you would set up a schedule to run the "Spillover" as couple of times a day to keep the Spa water fresh. If you do not have an automation system, then you have to manually run the spillover each day or have a Make up line.

I love my Robot and have a vacuum line that has never been used.. So a vacuum line is not really required, just asking..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Van G said:
If I want a suction line, where does that change the plumbing in equipment?
Click to expand...

If you don't want to use a robot or want to keep your options open I suggest you plumb for a pressure type cleaner like a Polaris 380. That requires a dedicated return line in the middle of your pool and a booster pump that runs when you want to run the cleaner. You can have the return installed and stubbed off at the equipment pad. If someday you want to use a pressure cleaner then you connect in a booster pump to the water after the SWG.

I know lot's of folks like their robots but many have problems with them.
 
Van,

A relay won't help much... you need to able to control an valve actuator. I am not up on "Omni" so not sure they can control any valves.. I believe the Omni that comes with a pump is not at all the same as an OmniLogic automation system. :confused:

If you wanted a dedicated line vacuum line you would need to add a line from your suction valve on the Pool side going back to the pool, but with a jandy valve to open or close it at the equipment pad.

Jim R.

(You would have to tear my Robot from my cold dead hands...) :p
 
ajw22 said:
If you don't want to use a robot or want to keep your options open I suggest you plumb for a pressure type cleaner like a Polaris 380. That requires a dedicated return line in the middle of your pool and a booster pump that runs when you want to run the cleaner. You can have the return installed and stubbed off at the equipment pad. If someday you want to use a pressure cleaner then you connect in a booster pump to the water after the SWG.

I know lot's of folks like their robots but many have problems with them.
Click to expand...

I missed the boat on plumbing for that - pool is already back filled and coping going on.
 

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Van,

If your pump, filter and cell all have 2" plumbing, then I would plumb the whole pad for 2" and use a reducer to match up with your flex lines.

On the other hand if most of your equipment is going to be 1.5" I would plumb the pad with 1.5" pipe..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Plumbing everything at 2" rigid. Should I simply use a Hayward 1 1/2" x 2" 2-way diverter on each of the lines? Gets me from 1 1/2" to 2" and adds the benefit of a shutoff.

Or are there dedicated reducers?

So for the dual suction lines off the skimmer I'm going to plumb that into a 3-way (manual) so I have the option of using a manual suction vac. That 3-way will go into the next 3-way (automated) with Spa on the other side and leading to pump. Correct?
 
Van,

This is what I had in mind.. a manual 3-way valve that let's you adjust the suction between skimmers.. The one further way almost always needs more suction than the closer one.

A manual 2-way just to either shut off or turn on the vacuum line.

Jim R.

img055.1.jpg
 
Realize I should have explained this:

Skimmer 1 and Skimmer 2 are lines coming from the same skimmer, not 2 skimmers.

From what I’ve read lately it seems the second is a backup in case there is an issue with the first.

I thought it was run to increase the volume that is pulled.
 
Van,

That is a new one on me... One hole goes to the pump the other hole is connected to a main drain or an equalizer port in the side wall of the pool. This is so that if the water falls below the level of the skimmer, there is still water available for the pump..

I have never seen both hole used to go back to the pump..

Jim R.
 

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