New and Struggling

[SpockF4]

Hello everyone. This is my first year of full time pool care and I am having issues. Although my water is relatively clear I don’t think it’s as clear and crisp as it could be. Also I continue to have algae issues in that I cannot get rid of stubbornly recurring green algae that settles on the sidewalls and bottom of the pool. Nothing that causes a “green pond” look, but just an annoying layer that I have to brush every couple of days. When I brush I get the dusty cloud look and the water obviously gets murky, but it looks better the next day only to reoccur.

I had been relying on pool store testing but my results were all over the place. Even though I followed the recommendations for remediation to the letter my algae problem never got solved. Looking online I stumbled across this site and feel like this might be my salvation as a pool caretaker!!

I followed the recommendations here and purchased a Taylor K-2006C testing kit. I performed my first test today and the results were:
TA 125
PH 7.8
Free Chlorine 22.5
Combined Chlorine 0.5
Calcium Hardness 230
CYA 75
Saturation Index 0.4

First disclaimer: I tried to follow the instructions as closely as possible but I am not yet confident in my testing skills. My question: do these results pass the “reasonableness” test and if so do they explain my ongoing algae problem?

I tried using the calculator to try to determine a solution to my problem but am now confused on what step to take next. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would be eternally grateful!!

I also added a picture to try and give an idea of the water clarity.
Thanks in advance for any and all tips.

 

[Bperry]

Hello everyone. This is my first year of full time pool care and I am having issues. Although my water is relatively clear I don’t think it’s as clear and crisp as it could be. Also I continue to have algae issues in that I cannot get rid of stubbornly recurring green algae that settles on the sidewalls and bottom of the pool. Nothing that causes a “green pond” look, but just an annoying layer that I have to brush every couple of days. When I brush I get the dusty cloud look and the water obviously gets murky, but it looks better the next day only to reoccur.

I had been relying on pool store testing but my results were all over the place. Even though I followed the recommendations for remediation to the letter my algae problem never got solved. Looking online I stumbled across this site and feel like this might be my salvation as a pool caretaker!!

I followed the recommendations here and purchased a Taylor K-2006C testing kit. I performed my first test today and the results were:
TA 125
PH 7.8
Free Chlorine 22.5
Combined Chlorine 0.5
Calcium Hardness 230
CYA 75
Saturation Index 0.4

First disclaimer: I tried to follow the instructions as closely as possible but I am not yet confident in my testing skills. My question: do these results pass the “reasonableness” test and if so do they explain my ongoing algae problem?

I tried using the calculator to try to determine a solution to my problem but am now confused on what step to take next. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would be eternally grateful!!

I also added a picture to try and give an idea of the water clarity.
Thanks in advance for any and all tips.

Hey there, welcome. The algae is caused by inadequate chlorination, but your current FC reading is more than adequate. Did you recently add a lot of chlorine and how confident are your test results? Just to be clear the FAS-DPD test (the one with the powder) had 45 drops of reagent to turn from pink to clear?

If the results are good, you need to follow what TFP calls the SLAM process. Read through the directions and follow that, and ask any questions you need to.

 

[SpockF4]

Thanks for the reply. Yes it was 45 drops on the FAS-DPD test and that led me to think I had done something wrong. I will test again to see if I can reproduce the results. My setup uses an inline chlorine dispenser with the pucks. I am gathering that liquid chlorine is the preferred method but I don’t have any available at the moment. I was also curious as to having the algae problem with the high FC results??? I will source some liquid chlorine and try the SLAM process.

 

[Bperry]

Thanks for the reply. Yes it was 45 drops on the FAS-DPD test and that led me to think I had done something wrong. I will test again to see if I can reproduce the results. My setup uses an inline chlorine dispenser with the pucks. I am gathering that liquid chlorine is the preferred method but I don’t have any available at the moment. I was also curious as to having the algae problem with the high FC results??? I will source some liquid chlorine and try the SLAM process.

You don’t want to be using any more of those pucks because you’re CYA is already maxed out (80ppm) it gets hard to SLAM when the CYA is that high. How sure are you about the 75 (which rounds up to 80).

How long has the chlorine been at 22.5? That might narrow down what’s going on.

 

[Texas Splash]

The Taylor kit has you use a 25 ml water sample for the FC test, so you might want to do your next FC test as follows:

Grab a 10 ml water sample and add just ONE generous scoop of powder. Then add the drops and count until clear. Divide that result in half. Example - 20 drops to clear is an FC of 10.

Welcome to TFP!

 

[SpockF4]

Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll try the testing again tomorrow. Should I just turn the puck chlorinator off?

 

[Bperry]

The Taylor kit has you use a 25 ml water sample for the FC test, so you might want to do your next FC test as follows:

Grab a 10 ml water sample and add just ONE generous scoop of powder. Then add the drops and count until clear. Divide that result in half. Example - 20 drops to clear is an FC of 10.

Welcome to TFP!

That’s a good point. If it was 45 drops in a 25ml sample (instead of 10ml) then the FC isn’t 22.5ppm. Good just to clarify.

 

[SpockF4]

Just retested with a 10ml sample and it took 40 drops so I guess the FC is 20 still.

 

[woodyp]

If you pass an over night chlorine loss test.....keep filtering and cleaning it.

 

[SpockF4]

I’m still confused as to why I would have the algae problem with the FC being as high as it is??

 

[SpockF4]

Thanks I’ll try the overnight test.

 

[Bperry]

I’m still confused as to why I would have the algae problem with the FC being as high as it is??

If it was low for a while then algae starts growing. Once it starts it spreads rapidly and can take a few weeks of SLAM process to get rid of it.

With the CYA as high as you have it, you’ll need to maintain a chlorine level of ~10ppm on a regular basis just to avoid getting algae. If you weren’t doing that until now then that could explain it. You might consider replacing some of the water to lower the CYA so you don’t need to maintain the FC so high. Once the FC is over 10ppm, then you can’t measure pH accurately so getting the CYA down to 50 or so would let you keep the FC around 5-6 which would let you measure the pH.

 

[Drd]

Thanks for the reply. Yes it was 45 drops on the FAS-DPD test and that led me to think I had done something wrong. I will test again to see if I can reproduce the results. My setup uses an inline chlorine dispenser with the pucks. I am gathering that liquid chlorine is the preferred method but I don’t have any available at the moment. I was also curious as to having the algae problem with the high FC results??? I will source some liquid chlorine and try the SLAM process

IM

Hello everyone. This is my first year of full time pool care and I am having issues. Although my water is relatively clear I don’t think it’s as clear and crisp as it could be. Also I continue to have algae issues in that I cannot get rid of stubbornly recurring green algae that settles on the sidewalls and bottom of the pool. Nothing that causes a “green pond” look, but just an annoying layer that I have to brush every couple of days. When I brush I get the dusty cloud look and the water obviously gets murky, but it looks better the next day only to reoccur.

I had been relying on pool store testing but my results were all over the place. Even though I followed the recommendations for remediation to the letter my algae problem never got solved. Looking online I stumbled across this site and feel like this might be my salvation as a pool caretaker!!

I followed the recommendations here and purchased a Taylor K-2006C testing kit. I performed my first test today and the results were:
TA 125
PH 7.8
Free Chlorine 22.5
Combined Chlorine 0.5
Calcium Hardness 230
CYA 75
Saturation Index 0.4

First disclaimer: I tried to follow the instructions as closely as possible but I am not yet confident in my testing skills. My question: do these results pass the “reasonableness” test and if so do they explain my ongoing algae problem?

I tried using the calculator to try to determine a solution to my problem but am now confused on what step to take next. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would be eternally grateful!!

I also added a picture to try and give an idea of the water clarity.
Thanks in advance for any and all tips.

Temperature plays a big part in the formation of algae along with phosphates (things falling into the pool and food for algae), I live in AZ and struggled too with algae and putting large quantities of chlorine in to get rid of it, etc. I now use an algaecide (algae 60) not cheap but well worth it and treatments are just 2-4 oz for 10,000 gal, you will need to get rid of the algae and add an initial dose then only do weekly treatments of algaecide to keep it clear after that. I have a liquid chlorine feeder and use HASA pool chlorine I get at certain pool stores that carry it (it is higher concentration so you use less and it cost less in the long run especially when you go the refillable bottle route). I have actually tested no chlorine in the pool due to no CYA (I find no chlorine also lowers CYA too due to higher bacteria, I think they are co dependent in my experience) and not gotten any sign of algae for a week and that was just a spot, course I fixed the problem by then. Chlorine above the .075% of CYA ppm is not protected and therefore wasting your money. My numbers currently are FC 4, CYA 30, PH 7.4-7.6 (at 7.8 or above I add some diluted acid which is more an issue with liquid chlorine. Even thought some people say it's self adjusting through it's evolving chemical processes, I don't find that true because I'm always adding chlorine, also high PH will lower the effectiveness of your chlorine to sanitize) with TA 80 my CSI (over all health) was in perfect range of -.02 and water is crystal clear too. At some point TDS will accumulate to a point you will need to do a partial drain or pay to have your pool water filtered by a mobil service and have to add a lot of chemicals at that point, but that won't need to be an annual requirement as is with using Dichlor. Especially during the summer, test every 2-3 days without fail so things don't get so far out of control before you can adjust them. My chemicals I keep to a min. Chlorine, algaecide, Acid, Scale free treatment for our hardwater and CYA as needed to maintain 30ppm. I also inspect my pool almost daily and clean baskets out of debree too, I run my filter 1 hr for every 10 degrees as reconmended. I have found my patio chairs, cushions all sorts of things in the pool due to wind too. I now feel just throw out the old filters annually and replace with new, made a big difference IMO (they just never get totally clean and a big pain too, cheap enough online now depending how many you use). I use my phone app "Reminders" to keep me on schedule so I don't have to over think my maintenance routine.

 

[Oly]

Looking online I stumbled across this site and feel like this might be my salvation as a pool caretaker!!

Good observation this is a fact, welcome aboard.

Stay clear of these...


Keep your eyes on what is key...

 

[mknauss]

along with phosphates

No. If no algae, phosphates are immaterial.

I now use an algaecide (algae 60)

That is broken down quickly by chlorine. Again, no need.

You are welcome to operate your pool as you like, but the two statements above are not TFPC endorsed methods.

 

[Drd]

No. If no algae, phosphates are immaterial.

That is broken down quickly by chlorine. Again, no need.

You are welcome to operate your pool as you like, but the two statements above are not TFPC endorsed methods.

I disagree, I live in the Arizona desert much like Florida and Nevada have very high temperatures in the summer not to mention monsoon season couple that with problems keeping chlorine optimal and windy days, algaecide is your backup to a yellow and green pool which is a nightmare and may even stain your pool requiring even more expensive cleaning, I know, been there and so have other pool owners! "Ideally" you should not need it, but perfectly balanced and conditions isn't always the scenario for one reason or another and fighting algae shouldn't have to be the icing on the cake! As they say, "An once of Prevention is worth a pound of cure".

 

[Jimrahbe]

Drd,

We have a ton of members who live in Arizona and Nevada that would disagree with your disagreement.

If you have to use algaecide to keep from getting algae, you are just not doing it right.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Drd]

Drd,

We have a ton of members who live in Arizona and Nevada that would disagree with your disagreement.

If you have to use algaecide to keep from getting algae, you are just not doing it right.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Yellow algae is †he type that is prevalent in high temperature regions is chlorine resistant for one thing! Another is liquid chlorine by nature is not stable and UV degradable, CYA can either protect or impede it's availability and high PH can interfere with it's ability to sanitize. So to start you have to have all these variables in harmony. Of course you can say I'm not doing something right if I get algae, but maybe not given the environmental factors not under our control that can change the equation quickly, not to mention equipment failure etc. Things happen like maybe you had to leave for family emergency etc. I use algaecide as an insurance policy encase my feeder stops working. My feeder doesn't work unless my pump is running etc etc etc, next I have to manually add chlorine until resolved. To my surprise I had no CYA in my pool and that is said to never leave your pool unless you drain it to get rid of it, well I want to tell you differently! There has been times I can't keep a daily eye on my pool too, it's called life! Don't shame me into being wrong in order to discount preventative measures such as adding an algaecide doesn't have merits. Slamming with massive amounts of liquid chlorine yes can kill algae and that method in itself means TPT accepts algae can occur, since they promote a method to eradicate it.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Drd,

Have you ever thought about using a Saltwater Chlorine Generator instead of liquid chlorine?

For me anyway, it makes those things that happen to everyone in life, a lot less problematic.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[woodyp]

But his pump could still die Jim......then no SWG!