New and need some trouble shooting...

Jun 13, 2017
18
Haslet, Tx
New to pools and I had mine completed last October and this is the first "season" we will be swimming regularly... After making 3 trips to the local leslies and reviewing each print out which was always counteracting the previous one and spending $$$ to get it "in check" per there advice it was enough for me to fig this out my self. so here I am... the first issue I had was a somewhat teal color to the pool. It has been 6 or so months so I cleaned all the filters (4) which were nasty and proceeded to get some advice from the pool store. My printout showed high TA (200)and high PHO (500) FC (4ppm) PH 8+ and salt at 3.4 I did there recommended doses and had another printout.. TA down .2ppm PHO no change and FC 0. PH 8+and salt down to 2.7??? third trip I after more chemicals added to increase my CYA, bag of salt now more muriatic acid and PH reducer the pho dropping to 300 and to 6.8 and FC not changing I had enough.... I thing half of it was their calculation of my pool size. I just recalculated it and they had me at 11,300 gallons where my calculation shows 17,400. They also told me to add three bags of shock which has done nothing... My SWG during this process of three weeks when from 3.4 to 4.0 with no signs of FC increasing I used test strips but I just bought a Taylor K2006 and will be doing my own upkeep from now on. I believe I am on the right track with the calculator and process to stabilize everything learned here so far but I do have a question regarding stains. It appears on the sides of the pool area a almost light grey streaks and one spot on the floor about 12" diameter. I am not sure what this is or how to rid of it. I treated the pool with metal free, vitamin C seems to make it disappear but the metal free didn't quit get ride of it.... Should I start with SLAM method? advice good or bad...

-Mike
 
Well Mike, I hate to say it but you sure did get "Pool-Stored" ($cha-ching!) OUCH!

Give us a full set of test results from that handy dandy new test kit and we'll have an idea of how to proceed. We can't say a thing until then really.

If you need more FC in that pool in the mean time, and it does sound like you do!, just use a gallon of plain unscented bleach daily. That will give you FC immediately and buy us some time to figure out whats going on with the SWG.

How's that plan sound?? We'd love to see pics too

Maddie :flower:
 
New to pools and I had mine completed last October and this is the first "season" we will be swimming regularly... After making 3 trips to the local leslies and reviewing each print out which was always counteracting the previous one and spending $$$ to get it "in check" per there advice it was enough for me to fig this out my self. so here I am... the first issue I had was a somewhat teal color to the pool. It has been 6 or so months so I cleaned all the filters (4) which were nasty and proceeded to get some advice from the pool store. My printout showed high TA (200)and high PHO (500) FC (4ppm) PH 8+ and salt at 3.4 I did there recommended doses and had another printout.. TA down .2ppm PHO no change and FC 0. PH 8+and salt down to 2.7??? third trip I after more chemicals added to increase my CYA, bag of salt now more muriatic acid and PH reducer the pho dropping to 300 and to 6.8 and FC not changing I had enough.... I thing half of it was their calculation of my pool size. I just recalculated it and they had me at 11,300 gallons where my calculation shows 17,400. They also told me to add three bags of shock which has done nothing... My SWG during this process of three weeks when from 3.4 to 4.0 with no signs of FC increasing I used test strips but I just bought a Taylor K2006 and will be doing my own upkeep from now on. I believe I am on the right track with the calculator and process to stabilize everything learned here so far but I do have a question regarding stains. It appears on the sides of the pool area a almost light grey streaks and one spot on the floor about 12" diameter. I am not sure what this is or how to rid of it. I treated the pool with metal free, vitamin C seems to make it disappear but the metal free didn't quit get ride of it.... Should I start with SLAM method? advice good or bad...

-Mike
Welcome to the forum. Good to hear you just purchased the K2006, now post up a complete set of test results:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Now, what's with this salt reading of "3.4 to 4.0"? Salt should be upwards of 3000ppm, what is this 3.4?
 
Pool.JPG

Delayed shipping on my k2006:grrrr: but I've been adding bleach each day and its holding FC, I also reconfigured my run times of the SWG as per the calculator on here... and then ill move forward. its nice to cut the cord from the pool store... heres a picture of the pool... one question is the pool store calculated my pool at 11,300 but my calculation show its 17,400 gal... I'm sure 6000 gal would make a big diff on the orginial chemical walk through they said i needed correct?
 
results are in this was taken at 3:30 PM

FC 2.5ppm
CC 1.0ppm
pH 8.0
TA 120ppm
CH 350ppm
CYA 60ppm the black dot disappeared around 70-80 but wasn't sure so i added more till i couldn't see it...)


salt 4000ppm


so next steps to a TFP???
 
You are in fairly good shape. You need to add acid to get your pH to 7.2.
Is your water cloudy? The picture kind of looks like it.
Your best bet is to SLAM, may go really quick. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
In a nutshell, turn off your SWCG. Add bleach to get to FC 24. Test and dose with bleach every few hours until the FC holds. Then go a couple days testing three or four times per day adding bleach to get to FC 24. Once the pool is crystal clear, do an OCLT. If all good, let FC drift back down to target (I would use FC 6) and turn on your SWCG. Adjust to maintain. You may wish to raise your CYA to 70 or 80 if FC is getting burned off too quickly. You would need to raise your target FC accordingly.

Hope that helps -- bring on the questions!

Take care.

- - - Updated - - -

Also - on your pool volume.
A good way to verify is when adjusting your pH. Add about half the acid you calculate to get to 7.2. See how that amount of acid reacts in your pool. Adjust the volume in PoolMath to get the numbers to work out. Then dose again to get your pH to 7.2. You only need to circulate the pool for about 30 minutes after adding the acid to test for pH. Put the pump on High speed to circulate for this.
 
Going on day 5 of the SLAM, FC has lose has improved. CC .0-.5 and the pool Is still clear, actually even better looking but still losing an average of 3.5 ppm FC on each OCLT test... The pool was built and filled in OCT. and its been clear the whole time but I have a feeling the FC was never anywhere close to what it should be. Do you thing that in the 8 month time frame enough algae could have grown and is living behind the light as the rest of the pool is clear but not holding FC? I am going to check that tonight, I cant think of any other reason for the lost as the base numbers and water clarity started off pretty good...
 

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Finish the SLAM until the pool meets all three requirements and don't let the FC drop below the SLAM level. The OCLT is telling the story, there is still algae in the water consuming the chlorine. I doubt there is algae behind the lights, but it doesn't hurt to have a look.
 
Algae can be present in large numbers before you see it clouding up your water. A little POP will help. Try to test and adjust FC as many times in a day as possible. The longer your FC is below SLAM level the algae will be able to multiply, albeit slowly. Make sure you brush every day... don't forget to brush that all of tile on the back side of the pool.
 
IMG_5821.jpg
This is what i believe is the prob. i have scrub and and slam'd and continue it appears in my mind is going away... am i on the right track....????FC held for 3 hours then dropped aft sunset... been checkin it every hour and brought it back up to SLAM level... am i making progresss? it appears that this is slowly going away...
 
You said earlier the black dot first disappeared around 70-80? Are you using 80 or 60 as your CYA level to calculate chlorine dosage? If you are using 60, try bumping the shock level using 80 as your CYA number. Don't add any CYA, just enter 80 on the pool calculator. Try that slam level for a few days and see if it makes a difference.
 
yes, it started to disappear but i fully disappeared towards 60... I will bump up the FC an see how that works out. Thanks. I believe the "black" spots in the picture is the algae its "smoother" compared to the rest of the clean areas.
 
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