Need some help....

[ploodle]

We recently had our pool (built in 1999) re-plastered, finished the job in the beginning of May. The pool people who I dealt with for all my supplies and advice retired. My backup pool guy doesn't clear voicemail so I can't leave a message. I found your website and bought the TFT-100 kit and did my first test today. But first a note on my water. We live rural and use well water. We don't drink the water as it is high in minerals and arsenic. We trucked in city water to fill the pool, but had an auto fill installed at the time of the re-plaster and it is hooked to well water. We put an inline iron filter on the autofill line but 2 plugged quickly so don't have one on there now and we are looking at other options.
I have an IG 19,000 gallon w/spillover spa, Sta-Rite system 3 filter, Pentair Intelliflo variable speed pump. I use the tri-chlor tabs for chlorine but since the re-plaster have been also using liquid when I needed more.
Here are my results:
pH - 8
FC - 0.2
CC -0
CH - 1325
TA - 310
CYA -70
Noticed the last couple of weeks algae forming in the grout at the water line. (Also noticed my grout is deeply grooved, I think we should have re-grouted the tile when the pool was empty but I didn't examine at that time). I'm not really sure what my normal levels should be because I'm putting my crappy well water in. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! So you have a few challenges based on those new test results:
ALAGE
- Your FC has been much too low resulting in algae. We remove algae via the SLAM Process. Lower the pH to 7.0 and begin a SLAM by increasing the FC to 28 per the FC/CYA Levels. Maintain until you pass all 3 criteria.
- In addition, the CYA is high enough for a non-salt pool. Stop the tabs and use only liquid chlorine or regular bleach to maintain the FC level.

HIGH CH
- CH: That's a major issue (scale). Not sure if your truck water was that hard or if you used cal-hypo products in the past, but that's too high. The only two ways to lower CH is exchanging water with softer water and/or perhaps osmosis process. You can call around on that locally, but you need to lower that CH.

HIGH TA
- PH is elevated. Lower with muriatic acid. Your CH is so high, I would take the pH down to about 7.0. That will also help to lower the TA. After the SLAM, let the pH rise on its own or aerate to help it rise (no chemicals though). When the pH hits 8.0 again, knock it down to 7.0 again and repeat that process until the TA is well below 100, ideally in your situation abound 60-70.

I mention the SLAM above until you figure out what to do with the CH. I=After the SLAM, you can continue that pH-TA process with acid, then keep the pH on the low end of the 7 scale. Scale may still try to form, but not as much or not as fast. If you decide to exchange or treat the water for the high CH first, then do the SLAM after,

 

[ploodle]

Ok thanks, I'm going to start the process today. I just downloaded the Pool Math app and can't seem to get past pool setup. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.

 

[Texas Splash]

I don't know what I'm doing wrong.

In the APP, first go to the profile and/or settings and look for the area where you can enter all of your pool info. You want to do that first. With your pool info loaded, it will then know what to tell you when you go to "Effects of Adding" and trying to determine how much of something to add. When in doubt, feel free to post your test results here and we can help you as well.

Here on the forum, also be sure to go to the menu "Settings" and look for the area to update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info so that it will show up on each post.