Need some help with plumbing

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mike105105

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Jun 13, 2022
5
NJ
Every few years I need to replace the motor on my super pump and the time has come again. This time I want to replace it with a variable speed upgrade motor. I figure since the motor is sealed I will get a few extra years from it as well as some decent energy savings. The only issue I have is that this pool was installed over 30 years ago and the design philosophy didn't leave me much room. The pump motor is almost touching the filter and since the VS motor has a control box on it I don't think I can get it to fit. I would just change the plumbing a little except there isn't much room and I don't have many options for cut and splice since everything is so short. Can anyone give me some advice, maybe something I overlooked?
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Thanks,
Michael
 
Yeah, that would work but I am trying to avoid it. There is only a few feet on that side till a keystone wall, so I would need to step over it whenever I'm over there, but that's not a big deal. I am really concerned with the lack of pvc to work with, plus I guess I would need a new valve. But yeah, if no one gives me a better idea it's either this or just throw another cheapo single speed motor in lol.

Thanks,
Michael
 
Hey Michael,

Without being there, it's tough to gauge how the pipes will line up without doing a mock up. It looks like you have some room to move the pump to the left, but not sure if using two 45s will push it out too far. The top line would be easy to adjust.

There are options for saving the existing valve(s). The diverter valve and check valve accept two sizes of pipe/couplers/fittings. Check out this photo:

1654984102717.jpeg



This is another option. It slips into 2" PVC pipe and accepts a 2" coupler/fitting on the other side.

Magic Plastics MagicMend Schedule 40 2 in. IPS X 2 in. D Spigot PVC Pipe Extender - Ace Hardware​

This is what is looks like:

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The fittings are not seated in the next pic for effect:

1653331345535.png
 
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That's awesome, I didn't realize the valves had that option. I also didn't know about that other patch fitting you mentioned. I was thinking the same thing about using some 45's. It is tight there with the electrical feed coming up, but it might just work. I guess I just need to grab some fittings and see if I can work this out.

Thanks,
Michael
 
Unless it is fastened down the easiest way would be to move the filter toward the heater. You only need a couple of inches for the motor and you can be 6" from the heater. Might be harded to drain the filter if you do that.
 
On a different path, Jandy sells a VS pump (ePump) with an external controller (either their automation system or a single purpose pump controller, JEP-R). It looks like the pump basket might be as wide as motor. Maybe that pump would fit in with the existing plumbing.
 
I have one more idea to consider. I assume you need the check valve to keep water from flowing out of the pump basket with the pump lid is removed. You can cut the two intake lines and raise them enough to fit the check valve. Install the check valve on the pool intake line (`8"). When opening the pump lid, the check valve will stop flow from the pool and the diverter will block flow from spa.

From the output side of the diverter going to the pump, install an elbow with a section of pipe downward. Follow with another elbow facing the pump which will give you pivot point (left to right) to angle the pump into position. From there, it's a straight shot to the pump.

Just another option. It adds one more 90, but gives you a clean path to the pump. If it doesn't make sense, you'll be subjected to a very crude sketch...

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Awesome suggestions. I am going to order the motor and play around with the plumbing options while I wait. Would using a double 45 to kick the motor over be a big issue for flow, or minimal? I want to shift the filter, but I need to check how close it is to the edge of the pad first, but moving the pump seems like it would be enough.

Thanks again!
Michael
 
Ok, got the pump all hooked up. I took the advice of moving the filter over and that helped a lot for space. For now I just needed to get the system up and running, but I think in the fall or next spring I am going to move stuff around more. I want to shift the heater to give more space and clean up all the plumbing with 30 years of bodge job fixes on it.
My next step is getting this motor under control of my old jandy aqualink rs. Right now I can only turn it on and let the built in program run. Going to make a new thread for that.

Thank you everyone for your recommendations. I have a habit of getting analysis paralysis, and a kick in the right direction to get me going really helps.
Michael
 
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