Need help with closing plan

[Newdude]

I am not sure why they just did that one considering they lowered our water when they really shouldn't have

Maybe they used it to add antifreeze

Keeping in mind that I'm not lowering the water below returns, what's the best method to cap these?

In order, from nearest to furtherst of the run. If you cap them out of order, you will trap water at the end which can't get out.

My reasoning is that the last will probably be harder to cap off

It's surprisingly easy to cap under pressure. You'll do fine.

I always prefer threaded fittings to expandable plugs because the ice may pop the expandables.

I don't like the 90 degree elbow either because the ice will have a good grip on it and if the ice rink shifts, it may break the return pipe in the wall.

Am I overthinking, as usual?

Probably. But you're amongst your people here, so no finger pointing from me.

 

[wireform]

In order, from nearest to furtherst of the run. If you cap them out of order, you will trap water at the end which can't get out.

That's dependent which way you blow the lines. I have one ig pool that sits higher then the equipment pad so that one I blow from the returns, furthest to the closest. I blow first with all open starting from the furthest and before and before I go to #2 I cap #2 so any water is surely passed that point. Then I close the furthest and proceed to #2 and continue to the last otherwise they mist alot longer.

 

[stoles]

Maybe they used it to add antifreeze

In order, from nearest to furtherst of the run. If you cap them out of order, you will trap water at the end which can't get out.

It's surprisingly easy to cap under pressure. You'll do fine.

I always prefer threaded fittings to expandable plugs because the ice may pop the expandables.

I don't like the 90 degree elbow either because the ice will have a good grip on it and if the ice rink shifts, it may break the return pipe in the wall.

Probably. But you're amongst your people here, so no finger pointing from me.

I wondered about the elbow in ice. Apparently we had them the year before when the builder closed the pool too. I just went back and looked at pics. I know our pool freezes solid at the top a good number of times though. I got my bendable funnel from amazon this week, so I'll just stick with the threaded fittings and add antifreeze from the pad. It's uphill from the pool, so I'm sure it'll find it's way down just fine.

Thanks all!

 

[ChrisABS]

I ran into the same problem with the skimmer gizmo. I took the threaded insert for the returns that the eyeball screws into and threaded that into the skimmer plug. That raised it up and I was able to use the smaller set of threads on the gizzmo to secure it.

 

[stoles]

I ran into the same problem with the skimmer gizmo. I took the threaded insert for the returns that the eyeball screws into and threaded that into the skimmer plug. That raised it up and I was able to use the smaller set of threads on the gizzmo to secure it.

Genius. I can't believe no one suggested that last year when I was freaking out.

 

[stoles]

Heelllpppp.

Almost done but only after so many ridiculous issues.

First, my skimmer opening is 2 in not 1.5. so none of the available vac hose to threaded adapters fit. Therefore, no blowing out to returns, through equipment, and from skimmer.

So I disconnected the cell and blew out returns from there. Great... Until I realize that there is no logical way to add antifreeze because of the pipeline configuration at the pad. They pipes go straight out, split to the ledge and wall turns, then go up, then go down in the ground.

Any suggestions on how to add antifreeze with that? I guess that's why the pool co used the elbow last year.

Still need to:

• Drain sand filter
• Drain heater
• Drain pump
• Add antifreeze

Trying to warm up because I froze trying to get that last return capped.

 

[Newdude]

First, my skimmer opening is 2 in not 1.5. so none of the available vac hose to threaded adapters fit.

Use duct tape to fatten up the hose. It doesn't need to be perfect, just mostly sealed. You can even go too fat and then just hold it tight when blowing.

Or pull the pump and duct tape the hose to the suction pipe and let er rip towards the pool.

Until I realize that there is no logical way to add antifreeze because of the pipeline configuration at the pad.

If you ended up with the cyclone, the pipes are empty and antifreeze is just extra, extra, insurance.

 

[stoles]

Use duct tape to fatten up the hose. It doesn't need to be perfect, just mostly sealed. You can even go too fat and then just hold it tight when blowing.

Or pull the pump and duct tape the hose to the suction pipe and let er rip towards the pool.


If you ended up with the cyclone, the pipes are empty and antifreeze is just extra, extra, insurance.

I was trying to tell myself that but I guess I really like insurance. Like a lot.

We did get the cyclone. There was nothing I could do to make it go through the skimmer. The hose was popping off the cyclone itself from all the pressure. But the pad is really far and somewhat uphill so I had that working against me. I got a 2 inch to 1.5 inch adapter and shaved off the edges that were keeping it from screwing in, so the fit there was good. But the hose would pop off and water would come flying out of the skimmer. It was nuts.

Unrelated, we have a leak in the skimmer housing somewhere also. Need to figure that out I guess. I think it's from settling and a crappy PB job.

 

[stoles]

Only somewhat related, I can't get the unions at the pump disconnected. I was tearing up my hands. Need to readdress that.

Is blowing backwards through the heater to the filter bad?

 

[Newdude]

But the hose would pop off and water would come flying out of the skimmer. It was nuts.

You may need to blow from the pad with unique circumstances. It worked for the returns so (theoretically) you'd be able to blow to the skimmers.

I can't get the unions at the pump disconnected

A strap wrench or 16 inch adjustable pliers. Harbor freight and HD both have a brand of the pliers for $25 or less, no need for the fancy ones. Go gentle with the pliers as they have some serious torque.

Also, are you looking at the union correctly ? Look down the suction pipe towards the pump when going lefty loosey.

 

[stoles]

You may need to blow from the pad with unique circumstances. It worked for the returns so (theoretically) you'd be able to blow to the skimmers.

A strap wrench or 16 inch adjustable pliers. Harbor freight and HD both have a brand of the pliers for $25 or less, no need for the fancy ones. Go gentle with the pliers as they have some serious torque.

Also, are you looking at the union correctly ? Look down the suction pipe towards the pump when going lefty loosey.

I questioned the direction so many times, went to other unions that I knew I could move and double checked. It wouldn't budge. We had a strap wrench around here but can't find it. Probably easier to buy a new one.

 

[stoles]

Can you all help me understand the possible layout of the return plumbing based on how the returns responded to the blower? Part of the the reason I ask is that my husband wants to use the elbow fitting we have to add antifreeze to the last one and take chances with having one return closed that way so we can add antifreeze. The other part of the reason is that I'm just curious what layout would cause the last return to not take any air at all until all others were capped off. I've noticed this also when we see bubbles coming out when the salt cell is running. Never any bubbles in this one either. Again, part of this is just me trying to understand without being able to see underground. My pics from the build are unclear.

 

[Newdude]

Unfortunately there's no telling what they did and why. Based on your findings, I'd guess it went this way



There is way more flow than SWG bubbles. They usually exit the first spot on the run leaving no bubbles at the others. This also helps (maybe) paint a picture of the other plumbing. Lol.

 

[ChrisABS]

Sorry to say but your union might have pvc glue on it. I have had to replace unions on salt cells because the installer used a bit too much.

 

[stoles]

Sorry to say but your union might have pvc glue on it. I have had to replace unions on salt cells because the installer used a bit too much.

This is super old but I was coming back here as I get ready to close this year to reference what actually went on. After we decided to open up our sand filter to change the sand, because of issues we are having, I think you're probably right about the glue. They had every part of the sand filter glued together with who knows what.

 

[ChrisABS]

This is super old but I was coming back here as I get ready to close this year to reference what actually went on. After we decided to open up our sand filter to change the sand, because of issues we are having, I think you're probably right about the glue. They had every part of the sand filter glued together with who knows what.

That’s horrible. I have found unions glued together as well as flow switches getting glue on the contacts making them stuck closed!