In March of 2020, I bought two RJ45+ SWGs for my pool and a friend of mine. I installed them both and have been taking care of both pools. Mine has been a dream. I haven't had even a single issue. Went all season in '20 without having to clean the unit even once.
On the other hand, my friend's unit has had some issues. Her cell would get scale on it weekly after about the first 2 months last year. I would unscrew the cell and blow it out with water from a hose. I occasionally would see the cell maintenance light on when I got there, but that would go away as soon as I blew the cell out with water and turned the unit back on. I maintain both of our pools, but her CH is almost out of control to the tune of 800ppm. I know she's gonna need at least a partial drain by next season, but with the drought conditions here in CA, that is not an option right now.
This year I decided to try borates in both pools and it has turned out great. Her cell has yet to show any scaling at all so I thought my troubles were over. I've been noticing the temperature reading on the control unit is reading nearly 10 degrees higher than what the manual thermometer in the pool shows. That didn't really bother me that much, but now I've noticed the salt level keeps going down and down. It's so low that it trips the low salt light and the cell maintenance required light on the unit and stops making chlorine.
I installed the unit last year and added salt to 3600ppm with my Taylor K1766 test kit. I hadn't added a single bag of salt until about a month ago. That's when I first noticed the low salt light on. First thing I did was retest salt with my test kit. It had only dropped to around 3200ppm, but of course the control unit was reading down in the 2500ppm range, so I added a bag and that got it working again. I come back next week and the low salt light is on again.
I added two more bags and now I'm at 4000ppm on my Taylor test. The unit was showing 3500ppm so I thought I was good.
So I show up again this week and the lights are on again! I turn the power off on the SWG and turn it back on after 30 seconds and it starts generating for a little while with salt reading in the low 3200's, but that number keeps dropping and dropping until it gets down in the 2700's and trips the lights again.
Any thoughts on what could be the issue? Is it a salt sensor? If so, is that on the control unit, on the cell, or maybe even on the flow switch? What are my options?
The equipment pad is in direct sunlight, but I built a bird cage cover for the unit to shield it from some of the sun's rays.
On the other hand, my friend's unit has had some issues. Her cell would get scale on it weekly after about the first 2 months last year. I would unscrew the cell and blow it out with water from a hose. I occasionally would see the cell maintenance light on when I got there, but that would go away as soon as I blew the cell out with water and turned the unit back on. I maintain both of our pools, but her CH is almost out of control to the tune of 800ppm. I know she's gonna need at least a partial drain by next season, but with the drought conditions here in CA, that is not an option right now.
This year I decided to try borates in both pools and it has turned out great. Her cell has yet to show any scaling at all so I thought my troubles were over. I've been noticing the temperature reading on the control unit is reading nearly 10 degrees higher than what the manual thermometer in the pool shows. That didn't really bother me that much, but now I've noticed the salt level keeps going down and down. It's so low that it trips the low salt light and the cell maintenance required light on the unit and stops making chlorine.
I installed the unit last year and added salt to 3600ppm with my Taylor K1766 test kit. I hadn't added a single bag of salt until about a month ago. That's when I first noticed the low salt light on. First thing I did was retest salt with my test kit. It had only dropped to around 3200ppm, but of course the control unit was reading down in the 2500ppm range, so I added a bag and that got it working again. I come back next week and the low salt light is on again.
I added two more bags and now I'm at 4000ppm on my Taylor test. The unit was showing 3500ppm so I thought I was good.So I show up again this week and the lights are on again! I turn the power off on the SWG and turn it back on after 30 seconds and it starts generating for a little while with salt reading in the low 3200's, but that number keeps dropping and dropping until it gets down in the 2700's and trips the lights again.
Any thoughts on what could be the issue? Is it a salt sensor? If so, is that on the control unit, on the cell, or maybe even on the flow switch? What are my options?
The equipment pad is in direct sunlight, but I built a bird cage cover for the unit to shield it from some of the sun's rays.
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As I cycled through the menu, the temp reading was practically right on this time. As I got to the salinity reading, it was in the low 3200's. I did notice that the weather was very mild and overcast. I wonder if that might mean some type of overheating issue.