Need help in clearing up cloudy pool. It has been a month with little success!

[Trutz_22]

I’m new to this site but anytime I google about anything, this is where I end up! I’ve decided to stop looking elsewhere for advice. The pool store has helped very little and we’ve been in several times for testing & purchasing pricey products. My head is spinning with the amount of information received. I had no idea how complicated pool operation could be!

For background, we own a smaller above ground 8k gallon saltwater pool. I’m new to dealing with all of this as my husband typically takes care of the testing & maintenance. We’ve had no issues since we had the pool installed 2 yrs ago. However, we opened to a green pool this year & were baffled as to how to proceed. We couldn’t get anyone to come out as they have all been too busy! For a month, we have added & tried almost everything. Metal out turned the water from green to aqua, algaecide, chlorine shock, bleach, clarifier, flocculant, Muriatic acid.. along with constant scrubbing, vacuuming & testing water. None of this has cleared our cloudy pool & have seesawed back and forth with balancing.

When we got our levels to a good balance, we hooked up the SWG, per advice received. The water has cleared somewhat but still extremely cloudy. I was just able to somewhat see the bottom yesterday. We have never entered the pool due to safety concerns. I can now see that the bottom of pool is mostly white. I don’t recall that it was like this prior to closing. We have been adding straight 8% bleach according to pool calculations each night for several nights with pump running 24/7. I tested water today with strips as well as Hydrotools test kit and the current readings are:
Ph 7.7 (Will add MA to reduce & hopefully bring TA down too)
TA 150
CC 0 (Despite adding bleach)
TH 300
CYA 10

I am about to purchase additional Chlorine to to begin a Slam process as I read in a previous post. The calculator suggests 42oz of 10% bleach to be added. What are your suggestions for what I should do prior to this. Should I disconnect the SWG? Add MA to reduce PH? Purchase & add Stablizer tablets to increase CYA? Purchase & add DE for sand filter (has never been done)?

As I said, I’m totally new to this & not sure if I’ve been clear or using correct terms! I’m just looking for any suggestions on here so we can begin using our pool in this 90 degree heat! I have my sons pool party scheduled for next Saturday too & can’t let kids in a cloudy or unsafe pool!

Thank you in advance!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

STOP!!!

You are creating a chemical stew that will become more and more difficult to clear.

You can't follow our SLAM Process without a good test kit. Either the TF-100 Test Kits or the Taylor K-2006C. Read Pool Test Kits - Further Reading

You say you put flocculant in the water. What did you do after? Did you vacuum to waste or to your filter? Floc and clarifier can gum up your sand filter. Did you deep clean your filter after the floc and clarifier?

What is your fill water situation? You have municipal water or well water? Is it metal free? It may be quickest for you to drain your pool down to 18-24" and refill with clean water if available.

You can't do anything with your water until you have the test kit. And I am concerned about the floc that may be in the bottom of your pool giving you ongoing filter problems.

Have you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry?

 

[Trutz_22]

Thanks so much for your reply! I will look for those kits. I bought what the pool store recommended a few weeks ago but believe they had Taylor brand. I am currently using both strips & that test kit.

I followed the Floc instructions & vacuumed to waste the next morning. Nothing cleared after Clarifying & Floc though. When you say deep clean my filter, what are you referring to? I’m totally new to all of this! I did buy a big box of DE tonight that I plan to add tomorrow. I saw this as a recommendation.

I do see the water trying to clear & my free chlorine is consistently testing at 1. It’s the best it has looked in weeks! I’ve added chlorine according to the app suggestions several times today. But CYA level is extremely low. I bought stabilizer to add but not certain when to do this?

We are on well water & the testing hasn’t shown metals but as mentioned, we used a metal out product in the beginning that took the green out. Algaecide did nothing which is what was initially used.

I’ve read so many articles & blogs in the past few weeks from multiple sites! It has been a complicated journey so far & hope to have this figured out in the next few days!

I’m clueless about the filter & how to check if it’s gummed up. I added a skimmer sock today as well hoping to help with that!? My jets are making a gurgling sound now.. not sure what that’s all about

All advice is appreciated!

 

[Flying Tivo]

You best bet would be to do a drain/refill with fresh water. Too many chemicals added and you have so little time por your party. I would also change the sand, if you can return the DE and get sand. This will get you a fresh start. Remember to leave at least 12 inches of water or your vinyl liner could shift. Order you test kit and add the speedstir which make testing easier.

 

[IceShadow]

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Trutz_22]

You best bet would be to do a drain/refill with fresh water. Too many chemicals added and you have so little time por your party. I would also change the sand, if you can return the DE and get sand. This will get you a fresh start. Remember to leave at least 12 inches of water or your vinyl liner could shift. Order you test kit and add the speedstir which make testing easier.

Thanks so much for your recommendation. I don’t have experience in draining & filling & had hoped to avoid that but if that’s the best & only option, I’ll arrange for this. Is there anything else I should try today before going that route? What is the difference with Taylor brand test kit compared to the one I have? This is the first time using a kit as opposed to strips so have no clue.
I will get sand today for the filter but also have no experience with that. Should I add the DE first to see if it helps? It was only $10 so unless I absolutely won’t need it, I’ll hold onto it.
My water looks much clearer after adding a higher chlorination % last night. Would it hurt to add CYA to skimmer since it has been very low for days? Other than that, everything looks good & within range. CH is high.

I won’t move forward with anything until I hear back. If we decide to drain, I imagine that takes time & would need to start the process before ordering a fill tomorrow? And would need to clean the liner well before filling? I think our liner will need to be replaced even though we’ve only had it a few years. It’s totally faded on the bottom to pure white from blue! Not sure how this occurred as I typically haven’t dealt with anything pool related til this season... But I’m obviously here to stay!

 

[Trutz_22]

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you! Will check this out to help guide me.. I need all the help I can get!

 

[IceShadow]

Your OTO test kit won’t give you any readings for FC over 5, and until then it’s sort of a guess anyway. You need a FAS-DPD test kit, and to give us results from that for us to help.

 

[Flying Tivo]

I think our liner will need to be replaced even though we’ve only had it a few years

If you dont mind aesthetics, you can hold on to the liner until it tears or leaks.
Taylor testing methods are titrating and give reliable and repeatable results, and that is what we look for. Newbies tend to think we push to buy something specific for our gain, but as you have probably notice, we dont gain anything but the pleasure of helping and seeing great pools(pictures please). Since you are realizing that TFP methods make sense, it would be a good decision to start fresh, you will look back and realize it was for the best. By ordering a fill do you mean truck in water?? You would want to test that water before filling.

 

[splashpad]

Welcome to TFP!

How much of the various chemicals were added? ~ Did I catch that you need to have water trucked in? SLAM Process

Can you share a picture of your complete test kit? The test strips should be disposed of, as they are not accurate and often times are very far off from actual values. ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

You'll get lots of help, just stay the course here! We can't emphasize enough to not go back & forth between TFP advice & PoolStore advice, the best way to explain it: noone here is trying to sell anything Test Kits Compared

 

[Leebo]

Before anything, let’s take a step back. Let’s make sure we all yell WELCOME TO TFP!

Before draining or adding chemicals or anything else let’s check what test kit you’ve actually got. Can you post a photo of any labels on your kit?

 

[Trutz_22]

Thanks so much for your recommendation. I don’t have experience in draining & filling & had hoped to avoid that but if that’s the best & only option, I’ll arrange for this. Is there anything else I should try today before going that route? What is the difference with Taylor brand test kit compared to the one I have? This is the first time using a kit as opposed to strips so have no clue.
I will get sand today for the filter but also have no experience with that. Should I add the DE first to see if it helps? It was only $10 so unless I absolutely won’t need it, I’ll hold onto it.
My water looks much clearer after adding a higher chlorination % last night. Would it hurt to add CYA to skimmer since it has been very low for days? Other than that, everything looks good & within range. CH is high.

I won’t move forward with anything until I hear back. If we decide to drain, I imagine that takes time & would need to start the process before ordering a fill tomorrow? And would need to clean the liner well before filling? I think our liner will need to be replaced even though we’ve only had it a few years. It’s totally faded on the bottom to pure white from blue! Not sure how this occurred as I typically haven’t dealt with anything pool related til this season... But I’m obviously here to stay!

If you dont mind aesthetics, you can hold on to the liner until it tears or leaks.
Taylor testing methods are titrating and give reliable and repeatable results, and that is what we look for. Newbies tend to think we push to buy something specific for our gain, but as you have probably notice, we dont gain anything but the pleasure of helping and seeing great pools(pictures please). Since you are realizing that TFP methods make sense, it would be a good decision to start fresh, you will look back and realize it was for the best. By ordering a fill do you mean truck in water?? You would want to test that water before filling.

Thanks again for your feedback! I have seen that test kit recommended many times so I’m convinced it’s worth the expense! We’re on a tight budget but at the same time we want to use our pool ASAP! It will take days or a week to get that kit so I’m having to use what I have until then. I know the strips are also useless but am using as a backup! You had recommended that we drain and add fresh water. Is this what you mean by starting fresh? We are on a well system & believe the replacement well water we had been using (From backwash, startup & loss) has caused some of the issues we’re having. So we would need to order and have it trucked in as we did in the beginning. I’m uncertain of the costs involved and how to test it before they arrive? What is the procedure for this?

Since I had already started the SLAM before posting & receiving feedback, I have continued the process to get my FC raised, hoping to clear my water completely and get it to a safe level prior to Saturday’s party. I know my test kit isn’t preferred & may not be totally accurate, but appears that the FC raised from 1 to 5 today and it has held. I added CYA in the skimmer and brought the reading up to 30 from the consistent 0 reading.

I am not confident about deep cleaning the filter (I’ve never taken it apart) but will follow the TFP videos & attempt tomorrow. I haven’t added the DE either and figured I should deep clean prior to adding? I want to be sure I’m doing everything possible to rule out other potential issues prior to draining!

 

[Trutz_22]

Welcome to TFP!

How much of the various chemicals were added? ~ Did I catch that you need to have water trucked in? SLAM Process

Can you share a picture of your complete test kit? The test strips should be disposed of, as they are not accurate and often times are very far off from actual values. ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

You'll get lots of help, just stay the course here! We can't emphasize enough to not go back & forth between TFP advice & PoolStore advice, the best way to explain it: noone here is trying to sell anything Test Kits Compared

Thank you! I can promise you that I’ve stopped looking & seeking advice elsewhere! And so far, I’ve received timely and thorough responses to my concerns.. & thankful for that.

In response to your question about chemicals.. that’s a tough & long one. My husband has always cared for the pool til now so he initially added items prior to my knowledge. When it opened green & scary.. he attacked it with what the pool store advised after their testing. He added chlorine shock several times, Algaecide (recommended amount).. that didn’t help.

I then did a vitamin C test on the stained liner & took off brown stains immediately where bleach did nothing. Per recommendation, I added a quart of Pro team metal magic (which got rid of the green).. But still totally cloudy. Then we were told to try Flocculant & clarifier in recommended amounts. Still couldn’t see the bottom but seemed to clear slightly. Our Ph was high so have added MA several times. They sold us a Cal Hypo shock that was added to raise chlorine. Our CH readings were very high after that! Big mistake.

This is when I started studying & scrambling for answers! I had been convinced the issue was metals in our water with the Vit C test as well as fishing out our kids metal butterfly net found while brushing the bottom! Guessing it had been in there awhile & couldn’t see it. Add that to our very hard well water & figured that was the issue. But anyone we’ve spoken with thinks we’ve been battling an algae problem & to treat with straight bleach/chlorine. I was able to get to a point to hook up our SWG & added salt. The water became a little clearer but chlorine readings were low to zero. That’s when I found this site & trying to piece it all together and fix this mess! We had started the SLAM after meeting prerequisites (except for proper test kit.. I’m working on that!) and have stuck with that over the past few days. I see much improvement but not perfect.

I’ve received advice on here to drain & refill. We have well water so this would need to be trucked in. We don’t want to keep using our water source in case that’s contributing to our issues! I would need more advice on how to proceed with draining etc if that’s the route I need to take!

I apologize for the book but wanted to provide a thorough response! My sons birthday/pool party is Sat & was hoping to have things figured out by then. This pool has been my priority & very consuming!

 

[Trutz_22]

Before anything, let’s take a step back. Let’s make sure we all yell WELCOME TO TFP!

Before draining or adding chemicals or anything else let’s check what test kit you’ve actually got. Can you post a photo of any labels on your kit?

Hello.. thank you! I know it’s the middle of the night.. and just able to get back to you I’ll post a pic of my test kit. The pool store sold it to me so assumed it was good! I’ve ordered the recommended Taylor kit but it will take time to receive it.. & need to proceed somehow! I’ve posted several lengthy responses on this thread so if you have additional recommendations, I’m open to any and all advice!

 

[Leebo]

Well poo, that kit doesn’t have the one test I was wanting. That kit tests for Chlorine (at low levels), Bromine (worthless), pH, and TA. The one test I was greatly looking for was the CYA test as that’s the number we could use to get you greatly started clearing up your pool. I’d hate to see you spend the money/effort draining, but I’d also hate to see you sitting and miss the party.

 

[splashpad]

Thank you! I can promise you that I’ve stopped looking & seeking advice elsewhere! And so far, I’ve received timely and thorough responses to my concerns.. & thankful for that.

If you search the forum for: green to blue or clearing swamp, you'll see many turnarounds on here!

In response to your question about chemicals.. that’s a tough & long one. My husband has always cared for the pool til now so he initially added items prior to my knowledge. When it opened green & scary.. he attacked it with what the pool store advised after their testing. He added chlorine shock several times, Algaecide (recommended amount).. that didn’t help.

I then did a vitamin C test on the stained liner & took off brown stains immediately where bleach did nothing. Per recommendation, I added a quart of Pro team metal magic (which got rid of the green).. But still totally cloudy. Then we were told to try Flocculant & clarifier in recommended amounts. Still couldn’t see the bottom but seemed to clear slightly. Our Ph was high so have added MA several times. They sold us a Cal Hypo shock that was added to raise chlorine. Our CH readings were very high after that! Big mistake.

So: well water added iron, algaecide likely added copper, I don't see any stabilizer, dichlor or trichlor, depending on the the chlorine shock that was used first? (that is good if that is the case)
Were the floc & clarifiers vac'd to waste and not circulated through the filter? If not sent out to waste, you may need to start with a Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This is when I started studying & scrambling for answers! I had been convinced the issue was metals in our water with the Vit C test as well as fishing out our kids metal butterfly net found while brushing the bottom! Guessing it had been in there awhile & couldn’t see it. Add that to our very hard well water & figured that was the issue. But anyone we’ve spoken with thinks we’ve been battling an algae problem & to treat with straight bleach/chlorine. I was able to get to a point to hook up our SWG & added salt. The water became a little clearer but chlorine readings were low to zero. That’s when I found this site & trying to piece it all together and fix this mess! We had started the SLAM after meeting prerequisites (except for proper test kit.. I’m working on that!) and have stuck with that over the past few days. I see much improvement but not perfect.

That's good news that he bleach/liquid pool chlorine is having an effect! Q: What color does your CL test turn (the #1, 5 drops test)?
So the 2 tests that need to add are: FAS-DPD (gives accurate chlorine levels) and CYA test. You can find and order those separately or the whole TF-100 kit, that is up to you Most owners will also encourage you to spring for a SpeedStir! That little device makes the FAS-DPD and the TA tests SO much more accurate! I use it for all my tests, but it shines when used for any test that says "swirl")

I’ve received advice on here to drain & refill. We have well water so this would need to be trucked in. We don’t want to keep using our water source in case that’s contributing to our issues! I would need more advice on how to proceed with draining etc if that’s the route I need to take!

I apologize for the book but wanted to provide a thorough response! My sons birthday/pool party is Sat & was hoping to have things figured out by then. This pool has been my priority & very consuming!

No worries at all! More info helps us get a better picture! We maybe to help you clear yet!

 

[Trutz_22]

If you search the forum for: green to blue or clearing swamp, you'll see many turnarounds on here!


So: well water added iron, algaecide likely added copper, I don't see any stabilizer, dichlor or trichlor, depending on the the chlorine shock that was used first? (that is good if that is the case)
Were the floc & clarifiers vac'd to waste and not circulated through the filter? If not sent out to waste, you may need to start with a Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter


That's good news that he bleach/liquid pool chlorine is having an effect! Q: What color does your CL test turn (the #1, 5 drops test)?
So the 2 tests that need to add are: FAS-DPD (gives accurate chlorine levels) and CYA test. You can find and order those separately or the whole TF-100 kit, that is up to you Most owners will also encourage you to spring for a SpeedStir! That little device makes the FAS-DPD and the TA tests SO much more accurate! I use it for all my tests, but it shines when used for any test that says "swirl")


No worries at all! More info helps us get a better picture! We maybe to help you clear yet!

Currently, the FC color is medium orange.. highest it’s ever been & on the strip it shows roughly 10. The TC doesn’t change so guessing the CC is 0. Shows the same on the strip.. using as a backup for now. On the liquid kit.. hard to tell since it’s darker than 5. Yes.. I need the better kit! My CYA looks to be 35-40.. not real high & have added a pack to skimmer each day. Added DE tonight for the first time. I believe in order to continue the slam I should add about 35 oz to get to the recommended 12?? Hoping I’m doing this correctly! Think I’ve been under estimating & not adding enough

Question.. I have friends visiting tomorrow that want to use the pool (no public pools open & super hot!) It’s pretty clear & my chlorine levels have been holding steady for days. Doesn’t appear to be losing anything overnight. Is it safe to enter!? I’m so new at this & fear the unknown!! Help!

 

[Trutz_22]

If you search the forum for: green to blue or clearing swamp, you'll see many turnarounds on here!


So: well water added iron, algaecide likely added copper, I don't see any stabilizer, dichlor or trichlor, depending on the the chlorine shock that was used first? (that is good if that is the case)
Were the floc & clarifiers vac'd to waste and not circulated through the filter? If not sent out to waste, you may need to start with a Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter


That's good news that he bleach/liquid pool chlorine is having an effect! Q: What color does your CL test turn (the #1, 5 drops test)?
So the 2 tests that need to add are: FAS-DPD (gives accurate chlorine levels) and CYA test. You can find and order those separately or the whole TF-100 kit, that is up to you Most owners will also encourage you to spring for a SpeedStir! That little device makes the FAS-DPD and the TA tests SO much more accurate! I use it for all my tests, but it shines when used for any test that says "swirl")


No worries at all! More info helps us get a better picture! We maybe to help you clear yet!

In response to your earlier question.. yes, we vacuumed the Floc to waste but honestly not sure if our vacuum was working correctly as we noticed a few days later there was debris trapped in the tube So there’s a chance we didn’t get it all! I am going to deep clean tomorrow. I added DE today to see if it helps the filter (trying everything!)..

How can I know for sure if there are metals still in my water? I know the pool store tested several times but never showed anything even though I knew it probably was incorrect. Will the bleach clear it out or do we need drastic measures if that’s the case Also My CH readings have been high 500-600.. any suggestions regarding that? Should I be concerned yet

Thanks for all your help so far! I feel so over my head

 

[IceShadow]

Currently, the FC color is medium orange.. highest it’s ever been & on the strip it shows roughly 10. The TC doesn’t change so guessing the CC is 0. Shows the same on the strip.. using as a backup for now. On the liquid kit.. hard to tell since it’s darker than 5. Yes.. I need the better kit! My CYA looks to be 35-40.. not real high & have added a pack to skimmer each day. Added DE tonight for the first time. I believe in order to continue the slam I should add about 35 oz to get to the recommended 12?? Hoping I’m doing this correctly! Think I’ve been under estimating & not adding enough

Question.. I have friends visiting tomorrow that want to use the pool (no public pools open & super hot!) It’s pretty clear & my chlorine levels have been holding steady for days. Doesn’t appear to be losing anything overnight. Is it safe to enter!? I’m so new at this & fear the unknown!! Help!

That's hard for us to answer. We don't know what the actual FC level is. CYA of 40 means your FC can be up to 16 and be safe to swim, but for all we know it's higher. You also should be able to see the bottom of the pool for safety reasons. Let the FC come down / don't add any more, test and if it's close to the 5 then it's probably well under 16 and safe, but without the kit it's hard to know.

Side note: Not sure how you can say it didn't lose any overnight without knowing the amount of FC in the pool at the start and end of the night, aside from "over 5ppm"...

 

[Trutz_22]

That's hard for us to answer. We don't know what the actual FC level is. CYA of 40 means your FC can be up to 16 and be safe to swim, but for all we know it's higher. You also should be able to see the bottom of the pool for safety reasons. Let the FC come down / don't add any more, test and if it's close to the 5 then it's probably well under 16 and safe, but without the kit it's hard to know.

Side note: Not sure how you can say it didn't lose any overnight without knowing the amount of FC in the pool at the start and end of the night, aside from "over 5ppm"...

Thanks for your input. I’ve been able to see the drain for a week but it’s still a little cloudy. I didn’t add more chlorine today and the test showed the same colors as last night.. that’s why I said it “appeared“ to hold steady overnight! Yes I know it will be tough to navigate without exact numbers.. just working with what I have for now

I’m very worried about the high calcium that has shown consistent high readings on the tests we have & pool store weeks ago. It’s most likely our well water in addition to shock added a few weeks ago I understand this can continue to cause cloudiness & more complex issues until we replace water. The recommended level is lower for vinyl. Any advice on this?