Multiple SLAM attempts

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PoolStored said:
One more thought. How are you managing the filter. You should do a good backwash. Note filter pressure (let's say it is 12 when clean). When the filter pressure rises to 15 (25% above clean pressure), you should backwash. Add this check into your routine. Take pictures for yourself, 9, 3, end of day. Use a picture of the steps at first to note progress.

Frequency and diligence should provide you results.
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I’ve been backwashing. I have a dial on my pressure gauge that show the starting psi and backwash psi. I’m also adding DE after each backwash to try and speed up the filter process.
 
PoolStored said:
My one and only slam, looked just like yours. I tested and replaced every 2 hours, 7am to 11pm. Cleared in 5 days. It is about frequency, particularly early, to get ahead of growth. I also had a July 4th family weekend coming, so I was MOTIVATED!
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Been checking almost every hour. It seems to be helping. Day 2 of this consistency but still so much slower than years past when trying to open my pool. I had a massive amount of leaves in the bottom at the beginning. Bottom is clear as I get very little leaves when I vacuum now but wondering if phosphates are at high levels because of all the rotting leaves. I know others have said phosphates can be over come but could it be slowing the process down?
 
BennyB1979 said:
I know others have said phosphates can be over come but could it be slowing the process down?
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I have never seen Phosphates slow it down. The only edge case where we recommend a phosphate remover is when an SWCG is struggling, AND you have a Taylor K-1106 phosphate test...pool store phosphate tests are unreliable.

If you want to contribute to our knowledge base, get the Taylor Phosphate test, test to confirm above at least 1000, better yet 4000. Then, if you are going to attempt, use only Orenda 10,000 or Seaklear.

Even if you decided to forego the testing, use only the Orenda 10,000 or Seaklear...they are at least worth the squeeze.

Report back results.
 
Newdude said:
Is it one you can set, or just +10psi ? Don't use the +10 at low RPMs, it may be a 300% increase. Even at full RPMs +10 is alot.
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Yes. I use 2500 rpm at the baseline when I started with new sand. Set the start dial at that psi after backwash and it has a backwash mark when it psi rises. I can also tell when my returns slow down.
 
BennyB1979 said:
Been checking almost every hour. It seems to be helping. Day 2 of this consistency but still so much slower than years past when trying to open my pool. I had a massive amount of leaves in the bottom at the beginning. Bottom is clear as I get very little leaves when I vacuum now but wondering if phosphates are at high levels because of all the rotting leaves. I know others have said phosphates can be over come but could it be slowing the process down?
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Day 3 checking chlorine and matching SLAM recommendations every 1-2 hours. Day 8 of not letting chlorine get within 2-3 ppm of recommended slam level. Thought I’d wake up with more progress and nothing. Almost seems like water is same to less clear. As someone mentioned I’m going to…try to contribute to knowledge base and test for phosphates and treat. Understanding test is unreliable while algae is present. Will continue to SLAM. It progress isn’t made, I’ve reached out to the builder about draining pool. If I decide to drain, he is going to hook up some vacuums so I can drain down shallower. Says tis will stabilize the liner so it won’t shift.

At this point, I don’t want to give up and drain. I must beat this for my ego and pride! Lol
mknauss said:
You should also try to run the pump at a lower rpm. Without a heater I suggest you try 1200 rpm and see if that skims the surface of the pool efficiently.
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Curious, why the low rpm? Would that allow filter to filter more efficiently. At this point it feels like the algae is bypassing the filter……I know it’s not but at this point I feel like something else is amiss. Going to try the low rpm and I’ll backwash at 18 psi. My mistake as my backwash dial is standard 5 psi higher than starting psi, so 20. I’ll backwash at 18 though
 

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Filters filter better at low flow rates. At the high rpm with that pump you are blowing material through that sand filter.
 
And you're also stirring it up more, ensuring more old water never sees the filter.
 
BennyB1979 said:
Day 3 checking chlorine and matching SLAM recommendations every 1-2 hours. Day 8 of not letting chlorine get within 2-3 ppm of recommended slam level.
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CYA of 40, SLAM level is 16. Most of your results logged are under that, but not by a ton. The last result where you were at 9.5 is concerning. Either you still have a large organic presence consuming, or your replenishment levels are fluctuating too much.
 
Dare I ask if I should FLOC….or read about chemicals that expand the size of the algae so filter can filter it more efficiently. At this point I don’t feel like it can be a chemical issue. I changed the OEM lateral assembly, fresh sand (meets sand specs) and OEM Pentair multiport.

I ordered the Taylor phosphate test kit. I’m going to try that just to see.
 
Do not FLOC.

In this case it may be worth using a clarifier. HOWEVER, if you do only use SeaKlear or Orenda Chitosan...no other brands/types.

Can you take this picture again and post?
1715623430328.png
 
How quickly is pressure rising from clean (14) to backwash PSI (18)? Said another way, after you backwash how long does it take for pressure to rise to 18?
 

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